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• #2
Nice!
Did you get that from the pros closet? -
• #3
Main issue the practicalities of actually getting a drill bit in to the locations you indicate for the rear cabling and making a clean hole. As to longevity - well titanium is not immune to cracking and failure. I wouldn't consider doing it to such a special frame, but each to his own.
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• #4
Neither would I, I would use DA 9000 on this.
If you want to go electronic then eTap would be the way to do it.
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• #5
Etap.
Then file off all the braze ons.......
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• #6
Lush frameset dude!
Quick question, why not just wait and get the sram red wireless?
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• #7
I would not drill that. Cables aren't so bad.
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• #8
+1 on etap
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• #9
Like that frame, just can't get on with the swoopy seatstays. Looks like they just glued another fork in there.
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• #10
It's such a beautiful frame, I'd go with dammit and put DA9000 on. It'd be a travesty to chop that around.
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• #11
yeah, you guys convinced me, I'll wait to try di2 another time. By the time I get my hands on this frame I think eTap will be on the stores, I'll wait and see if v1 proves to be reliable
For stem and seatpost I'm contemplating a Control Tech Ti Mania combo, I can get secondhand for a good price the only two concerns is if they are good and if there will be too much stack since there's a lot of headtube there + headset + a -5 deg stem
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• #12
Moots stem and seatpost?
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• #13
You won't be able to drill the dropouts as they are 6AL. 4V CNC ed titanium even if you could get access to the hole you want to make.ie rock hard.
Lovely frame - you won't be disappointed.
I would go with a brushed seatpost and stem so maybe the control tech stuff would work. All ti stems have a tall stack owing to their welded construction.
If you are concerned the stem will give you a too high position best to try out the position with a cheapo aluminium stem to start with. -
• #14
I know you said it would be a long project but please hurry up!!!
I think this is going to look rather special. -
• #15
I know you said it would be a long project but please hurry up!!!
or at least post some more photos.
and don't drill it. -
• #16
Moots stem and seatpost?
too much $$$, I can get the control tech ti stem/seatpost/handlebar combo for the price of a moots or kent erikssen stem!
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• #17
If you are concerned the stem will give you a too high position best to try out the position with a cheapo aluminium stem to start with.
yeah, that's sensible, I do have 2 stems at home so I'll definetly try before purchasing something else
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• #18
DA 9k will look the tits on this, I think it'll work even better than eTap (coming from a dribbling eTap fanboy)
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• #19
Thinking how I can lower the stack height. I wanted a CK headset for the bling but it seems that it has a big stack height so I started looking into alternatives. Tune's Bobo has 24.4mm compared to CK's 31.4mm and I really like Tune's parts.
Any other headset I should look into?
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• #20
DA 9k will look the tits on this
I'm trying to not go overbudget on this project since this is not my main bike. Researching a lil bit about the best bang for the buck on Shimano's line I've found this blog post listing exactly that.
So far my planned groupset looks like this, is there anywhere that I can save a few $ without the part looking out of place?
Crank: Dura-Ace 9000 - this is because I think it will look the best on this particular frame otherwise I would go with Ultegra or even 105
Brakes: Dura-Ace
Shifters: Dura-Ace
FD: Dura-Ace
RD: Ultegra Long Cage
Cassette: Ultegra
Chain: Ultegra
BB: Dura-Ace -
• #21
You're completely right, the cranks are the main thing - will look absolutely 10/10 on this frame.
I think you'd do fairly well to go totally 6800, bar the crankset imo. The improvements over Ultegra to DA are mostly in weight, so unless you're dying for the polish on DA brakes then just go 6800. You'd be hard-pressed to notice the difference.
If you wanna go electronic, get DA cranks and brakes, then move all the shifting bits to SRAM eTap when it's a bit cheaper... best of everything, super tarty.
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• #22
Why the long cage mech?
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• #23
Why the long cage mech?
not long, mid cage tho so I can go up to 32T if I want to
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• #24
With that sprocket in mind are you sure you want a lower stack headset?
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• #25
Let me check but I am pretty certain that me Julie is running 11-32 and a compact with a shirt cage.
So I've been eyeing this Serotta on eBay for quite some time and now the seller accepted my offer for a quite reasonable price.
I would like to drill some holes in the Ti for Di2, from what I've researched people often do this on titanium without problems. I've uploaded some pics that the seller gave me and the
pics indicating where I think it would be best to drill.
What do you guys think?
This will be a long project!
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