Home DIY

Nah, actual pre-made drawers. I'm building a wardrobe, and a bit worried about the length of time It would take me to make drawers as well.

Got ya, I'd be tempted to buy something ikea / 2nd hand and make new fronts to match the rest of your doors.

Yeah, have thought about that but would quite like to not have to bodge around things like drawer width, depth, and soft close whatnots

you going to get around to making them eventually and so need a temp solution?
If so maybe muji plastic ones you could use for temp.

Yeah that's not an awful idea.

scroll to bottom of same page, there's the suggested matching rad valves. these are threaded 25mm for the rad and 15mm for your CH pipe

Got it, I thought that one came with valves for some reason, it seems that standard as 15mm push fit for valves.

What's the crack with tiling a bathroom floor? I currently have carpet over some old victorian floorboards which are loose and won't provide a level base. Can I put down some OSB or marine ply (+6mm) and use some flexi grout etc?

hi guys
looking for some storage advice seeing as though its a hot topic at the moment!
i recently had my loft converted and had a cupboard built above the stairs that lead up to the loft itself. This space is usually not 'inclosed' which to me is just a waste of space, hence why i had a cupboard built there.
My issue is that i'm not sure what storage idea to use for the inside as it has a sloping floor which makes it difficult to gain access to the back part of the cupboard.
Hopefully my pics give a good idea.
Note it's finished now inside with just carpet on the floor (i just didn't have any pics).
Cheers

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That sounds odd. A cupboard with an upward sloping floor.
Couldn't you have had built in shelves that you could get to from the side (i.e. in place of the partition).

Built in drawers on rails inside? Few boxes on rails. Attach a rope to them so you can get them out when they're at the back...? Basically hide junk and spare bedding at the back if you don't need to use it often.
As you say, going to be pretty awkward to use the back of a cupboard that doesn't have a flat floor...

yeh thanks mate.
i guess it would have been handy to have access from the front, but that would have meant that the stuff would be on show, and i couldn't quickly come up with a viable solution to how to have the doors. this way i thought it was easier to just have the access from the side, and put bulky things i never use up the back (somehow) and then have a clothes rail of some sort that you can pull out and easily access from the front (just got to work out that contraption now).

Drawers that slide out from the (currently partition) side would be better. Then they won't end up too deep (although you may struggle with accessing the very top ones. Maybe box in the top half and turn it into a cupboard?

Not OSB, but ply. I think you may need to go for thicker than 6mm. I think we possibly used 12mm. Flexible Mapei adhesive and flexible grout.

Alternatively, there is matting which you can use (I seem to recall it's orange). I couldn't find any.

I do actually know some, in Brighton, let me drop them a text...

I'm sure this is prob been resolved but I had something similar... it lacks an FPU or something right? I read all the regs and it only applies to NEW appliances. I had to quote line for line and get confirmation from the gas gov body (whoever they are) for a gas guy to refit my old hob after replacing a worktop.

cheers @rodabod - will go 12mm marine ply with all the flexibles and see what happens. Thanks again.

oh right. i'm getting a new gas hob fitted (at same time as replacing my worktop) and the guy i'm using isn't a proper gas safety certified guy i don't think...

You need the hob fitted by a proper gas guy ir you'll get into all sorts of trouble. But yeah, I dont read my "how to graphic design" manual everyday so dont expect gas folks to read their manual everyday either, read up on specifics that apply to your case...

yeh thanks will get the gas guy in when he does a boiler service or something

Forgot to say, and it may sound obvious, but make sure none of your floorboards are creaky. Screw them down anywhere if need be.

If this was in response to plastering cheers but we had it done a day or two after the request. Floor sanding though... Being quoted 650 for just that room and doesn't include staining or filling gaps. Wtf? Plastering was about 400...

Which area are you in?

Brighton alas.

I've UTFS'd, without much luck - I know I've seen a particular type/brand of bathroom extractor fan strongly recommended on here before, anyone care to remind/enlighten me?

Cheers

depends on: is the fan position in a wet zone? volume of room? silent? timer? slimline? ducted in-line?

bathroom extractors are typically 100mm (4"), but if you wanted to really clear the room, fitting a 150mm (6") could be a good idea.

xpelair, manrose/vent-axia, pretty standard brands