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• #10977
Are you working on behalf of Cycle Republic of Halfords fame?
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• #10979
Yep the Shimano stuff seems to take a while to get here... the chains are something like 35 bucks which isn't too bad, but when you wear one out in a single wet race it becomes a bit expensive. It's too much bike for me to be honest so I'll be getting rid after the summer anyway.
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• #10980
Functional folk, I need help.
I have a nerve problem in my shoulder and am looking for a solution to keep me at least commuting by bike. At the moment I'm doing it on a 29er with a 780mm wide flat bar and a lot of saddle/bar drop. Don't really want to mess with stems at the minute, but would like a bar that will sit me up and back to get me as upright and will as little weight/tension on my shoulder as possible.
What's my best option for bars? 31.8mm clamp, ideally silver and as cheap as possible. North road/upside down moustache/porter/BMX?
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• #10981
Check out the Humpert stuff on SJS, it's super cheap, usually silver and there's were several options for high-rise, swept back bars for an oversize clamp last time I looked...
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• #10982
Perfect, never heard of them or check SJS for anything other than mudguard spares, but I have some on the way.
Thanks.
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• #10983
Can second Humpert, good quality stuff.
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• #10985
You could also check out On-One Mary. When my Inbred finally lost all pretenses of being an actual mountain bike I went from FSA777 bars to Marys and they're great. I added some little Ergon bar ends and use them for touring too.
The Mary bars are okay off-road on gentler trails, so you can still have a quick trail ride on the way home.
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• #10987
At the moment I'm doing it on a 29er with a 780mm wide flat bar and a lot of saddle/bar drop.
A narrower bar would help.
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• #10988
A mate's looking to buy a bike that she can use for commuting and possibly some very light cafe pootling/touring. She is fairly petite and thinks she'd find smaller wheels more manageable. I agree.
This might be asking a bit much, but any recommendations for a cheap-ish, preferably aluminium, hybrid/tourer, preferably with 26" wheels?
The sort of thing with clearance for squishy tyres, mudguards, plenty of rack mounts, that sort of thing.
Before everyone (quite rightly) shouts "old MTB", are there many alu options for that sort of thing? She'll need to be able to carry the thing up loads of stairs.
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• #10989
If you want a super light old mtb alu frame, Ellsworth can be picked up cheap.
GT made lots of decent ones in the mid to late 90's too and they look good. -
• #10990
This looks like it could be a good bet? Should be capable of being a road bike, tourer and handle a bit of off road without major compromises.
Also available in on trend audax colour option.
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• #10991
Ooof yeah this is a fairly decent shout!
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• #10992
Get the 2015 model, great bike for the money
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• #10993
Forum bike?
Poorly installed rack spoils it a bit, not sure if price is optimistic - looks a solid bit of kit. Would be great as a winter runabout/commuter.
1 Attachment
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• #10994
The rack is fine, price is reasonable, as long the components in decent nick.
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• #10995
https://www.lfgss.com/conversations/277305/#comment12623513
bought a month ago, was a lot of interest at the time
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• #10996
really nice, got a thing for mtb with the flat crown forks
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• #10997
been searching for (a list of) steel touring bike frames that will take a belt drive but haven't found it, anyone here can give me a hint maybe?
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• #10998
Belt drive and touring is not something I would combine.
It may be best to get a standard frames and get it modified for belt drive, like the Surly ECR;
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• #10999
Although you'd potentially void the warranty on your Rohloff as the ECR isn't listed as meeting their stiffness (or may not yet have been tested yet...)
http://www.gatescarbondrive.com/Manufacturers%20And%20Models
@peter_v there are some steel bikes you could probably tour on in that list as a starting point
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• #11000
I've a VO porteur rack for sale, including a few bungees and a cargo net for £40. Collection from N16 in the next few days.
NOW SOLD.
I've not really found tutorials very useful and it seems like any forum thread etc where mapp is mentioned very quickly deteriorates into "buy a full size oxy/acet kit, nothing else will do".
The best way to learn is to do.
I spent well under £100 to get torch, gas, flux and rods and just got stuck into brazing in a replacement for the unused brake bridge on my Flyer frame. Then I made a rack that had 12 joints in it and I was noticeably more confident and getting better results by the 2nd half.
I've said a bit more about it in my current projects thread.