Tubs

I know, but you get my point?

Thanks for all the replies, I appreciate it. Just one last question, does anyone know any shops in London that stock Tufo sealant?

You could buy a pair of Tufo S33 PRO with a removable valve core (beige sidewall 24c, have good reviews), Tufo Sealent and rim glue from Wiggle for about 50 GBP and have them delivered for free.

But then you'd have to ride Tufos...

name one tub that comes close to a marathon plus for example.

Why should one? I know of not a single 700g 25mm tubular tyre. At 600g for the tyre + another 100g for inner tube the Marathon plus is very hefty. If one considers the 50g extra one needs to design a clincher rim over a tubular, we are discussing as much as 1kg more rotating weight and significantly higher rolling resistance. More reliable? Depends.. Handling? Grip? Ride quality? I'm not familar with any tubular tyre that provides as poor grip and high rolling resistance.. I won't even talk about ride quality and handling since they are so highly subjective.. Reliability? Depends upon what is meant.. A Continental Comp Protection probably is at least a puncture resistant as the Marathon but weighs sub 300g, with excellent grip and rolling resistance. Comfort and handling too are generally considered worlds apart. And safety? You can ride a flat tubular. And.. lets not forget that the Marathon plus is a very tall tyre so there could be fitting problems..
Sure a Continental Competition tyre won't wear as long as a Marathon. A Conti 4 Seasons won't either.. But what is the point? The Marathon Plus is a fine tyre for what it is intended: treking bicycles.

It's obviously a budget option, but what is so wrong with it (sincere question)?

Made of hosepipes

Filled with concrete

Made of hosepipes

At the price point of the Continental Giro the Tufos are not that bad. Back in the early 1990s I gave my wife a paar as learner's tyres--- at the time they were a bit over 1/2 price of the Conti Sprinters (which at the time were not as consistent as they are today). I got them out of curiosity. While the front did not last, the rear Tufo S33 she rode down to the cords. They respond quite well to latex milk as a sealant.

So a couple of retailers are now stocking the new Vittoria Corsa tyres, but only clinchers. Anyone able to source the tubular versions yet?

They are at distro for £79.99 rrp each.. Will wait for German retailer pricing.

I've had one puncture over the last few months.

The fucking clincher on my turbo trainer. Happened over the weekend. I really don't need an excuse not to climb onto my turbo

I am developing a strong hatred for clinchers. I get that like to fix punctures in them. With their little kits and plastic levers. But I'd rather just ride tubs* and skip the whole ball ache all together.

(*I only ever seem to puncture clinchers up here)

Got my hands on some Assos tubular rims.. Yes, the 16mm wide ones. They are stupidly light, 718 grams for the pair according to velobase but will weigh them at the shop when I get them laced. Ideally I want to use them as an indoor track set for lvv but not sure on what would be acceptable for use there in terms of tubs. I have a pair of conti olympics and sprinters both in 22mm which sit flush and very securely on the rim even without glue etc. they don't look or feel like they would come off any easier than on a normal width rim once glued properly. When looking from above the tyre is no more than 2mm wider than the rim on each side. Anyways, tL:dR..

When looking at the terms and condition of lee valley they use some terms which I need clarification on -

• tyres/tubulars must not have coloured tread
  
• no michelin tyres/tubulars or other dual compounds are not permitted
  

Dual compound means coloured tyres, red, blue etc. right? not tan/gumwall tubs?
The conti sprinters are a very dark grey, do you think they would be considered coloured upon inspection? (not wacist btw)

Also the olympics sidwalls are perished, they hold air perfect but they might attract unwanted attention, is this anything to be worried about? Olympic -

Sprinter-

Slightly off topic but would they also allow Mavic Track hubs, the ones with the allen key bolts ?because they also mention the following on the tc's -

• quick release wheel axles are not permitted
  
• wheel axles should not extend beyond the track nuts
  

Also the olympics sidwalls are perished, they hold air perfect but they might attract unwanted attention, is this anything to be worried about?

Use some latex milch to rejuvinate the sidewalls. Those Olympics should be great!

Bruce Dalton won the Central League this weekend, with 15 psi in his tyres, using Carogna. I 'd be tempted to give it a go next year, if I can't sort out tubeless properly.

I punctured a cross tub this weekend. I initially put 25ml of sealant in, most of which was expelled pretty much immediately after pumping it up to 20psi. I put 25ml more in and went a bit easier on the pump and it now seems to be holding air but I'm seeing sealant coming out of the sidewalls, like I would if I was converting a clincher to tubeless.

Is it possible to render a tubular tubeless by putting too much sealant in? or is it just sealant trapped between the tube and the casing coming through?

Which sealant?

cheap latex based stuff from Planet X. NRG I think. It's worked ok thus far on tubeless mountain bike tyres.

If you are preloading tyre amey why carry pitstop. If the latex sealant won't stop a leak then pitstop won't. Carry a spare.

Challange strada bianca seems to have the longevity of a marathon plus but feels nice to ride. 30mm only.

That sounds like a celebrity endorsement I can get behind.

Is it possible to render a tubular tubeless by putting too much sealant in? or is it just sealant trapped between the tube and the casing coming through?

I expect this is the case.

I busted a CX tub earlier this year and fixed it with sealant, same issues problems that you describe. TBH I don't trust it now and it's off the rim with a replacement waiting to be glued on.

What a tubular tubeless? What is that supposed to mean. You have sealant trapped in the casing. If the tub is holding air then all is well. If you put too much sealant then Crr goes up that's it. I have ridden tubs with sealant filling a hole for a good long while.

Well, in my theory the tube would be deflated and the sealant I'd put in in an attempt to fix the puncture would have sealed the casing. This seems unlikely as I'd assume the sidewalls and the basetape would be very porous.

Sealants still appearing out of the sidewalls every time I put air into it, and it seems to be losing pressure quicker than your standard latex inner tube.

..

surely the hole has not sealed and you have slow leak?

Hah yeah I wondered if that was possible.

To get mine to seal properly I put a proper dosage of sealant in it, pumped it up to 40psi then hung it off the work stand with the puncture at the bottom. If yours is still on the rim and it was a pinch flat, this might be tricky as the cut tends to be on the side of the tube.

On the face of it that sorted it, but I doubt I'd race it again. If I schlepped all the way to a race only to DNF because the seal went I'd be pretty pissed.

As the tub was off the rim in hindsight I should have tried a patch repair.