Wheelbuilding / Wheel Building / Wheel build help

Spent more money on parts than a set of planet x ald cost...yet my wheels are heavier. Despite novatec premium & aci aero db spokes. (And 8 fewer 28 vs 36) on Archetype rim

They can probably use light unbranded kinlin or Alexrims consumers can't get, or are £££ yet it annoys me.

Wheelbuilding by hand on consumer prices is not economical, I know that but this rubs it in properly ;)

Or maybe PlanetX got their scales a little wrong

planet x ald ...Archetype rim

Not really a like for like comparison, is it? The PX wheels use something similar to a Kinlin XR300, which is a skinny rim. Archetypes are expensive, if you wanted a 23mm wide rim the Kinlin XC279/Superstar Pave would have done the job for about £40/pr less

Front 925g (claimed) on planet x page VS 1100 on my very very crappy scales. Say 175 grams where does it come from?

weight of hubs planet x 208 (assuming novatec sl) VS mine 220 grams
(extra 12 for me) leaves 153

32 spokes on planet x (assuming 191 grams) VS 28 aero spokes on mine (141 and that's assuming they're heavy ones of 5 g) that should leave me in the lead... maybe they exclude the nuts?

Something here ain't right... I'll borrow a proper set of scales as this doesn't add up :)

I ended up using an old spoke to hold the nipples as these disappear very easily in the rim.

I can't believe that your front wheel is 1.1kg.

^ Agreed... My 29er front wheel is 1.1kg, that's a 35mm wide rim, dyno hub and built with Sapim Race spokes...

My scales must be really, really, really bad.

Well Christmas present sorted then ;)

Hello you wheelsmiths ...

Anybody got anything to say good or bad about the Novatec dynamo hub? Similar price to the bog standard 3W Shimano so I'm just trying to work out if it's a better deal, considering how the novotec track trounces everybody on quality/price.

Just read something on ctc about the drag increasing when lights are off at 30kph ... ? Weird...

Magnets... :)

http://www.ctc.org.uk/file/public/feature-hub-dynamos.pdf for your bed time reading

(unfortunately the Novatec is not in it, but it's a nice primer on how to evaluate the hubs)

Thanks!

@mdcc_tester here's a question for you: How does one lace a doublesided track hub...

..."proper" one end and drive/NDS on the other end...? As you end up using both sides (that's the whole idea...)

Does it even, in practice, matter if you accidentally get your drive/nds mixed up on a non-dished wheel? In theory, yes, in practise on a 28 spoke wheel...? Is there any data?

Of course I didn't count the nights lying awake sleepless cos you got the lacing wrong... :p

Hope tester understands that question, gibberish to me...

Does it even, in practice, matter if you accidentally get your drive/nds mixed up on a non-dished wheel?

It's not really the dish which is at issue but the clearance to the rest of the drive train. The reason why we have the pulling spokes inbound on a rear wheel for a dérailleur equipped bike [or a disc braked front], is that the driving [braking] load tends to pull the interlaced last crossing away from the dérailleur cage [brake caliper], and that clearance tends to be fairly tight so the last thing you want is for it to close up when you're applying maximum torque.

For a double-fixed wheel, you get to choose whether to build both sides with the pulling spokes inbound or to build it mirror-image as is conventional on most other wheels. There is no really good reason to choose one or the other, but whichever you choose make sure you can defend it when some pub bore questions your choice :-)

Aaah...tx! I thought the pulling/pushing movement influenced the stiffness and that's why the Drive/Non Drives had to be laced according to the convention.

That's what Le Manfriend (mechanical engineer) thought and he doubted it REALLY mattered (cos really, a proper wheel should only see tiny tiny tiny deflection and can you really notice that power/wattage/and all thatwise) but it seems the clearance is actually the reason.

Hah, for a pub where people care about spoke patterns, do you mean cake shop on Sunday morning? ;)

Oh, about leading/trailing inbound/outbound spokes. IC.

I've wondered about what's 'correct' but never bothered to learn.

Need to rim swap a worn open pro 32h 700c. Most likely to go Open Pro again... but....

Seen a few neg comments about Open Pro in this thread this year, in they've not kept pace with other brands etc.

Any of these other brands match erd for simplez swapz without breaking bank?

Silver, will be running 28's.

Ta.

mavic A319 is nice and fat for a commuter, erd is close enough for a straight swap.

Cool looks to be 15 cheaper than open pro from first google. Ta.

If you were building a fancy pair of wheels, would you go with Royce or white industries hubs?

Going to take the plunge and get a truing stand and stuff then build up 3 wheels.

Is this a reasonable stand?

http://www.rosebikes.co.uk/article/rose-centering-set-ii/aid:17131

I need to work out what hubs to get too, 2x front wheels 1 dynamo and 1 regular, then for the back either a sram 2 speed or a flipflop hub but unsure what, any suggestions?

I didn't have good luck with the SA two speed hub, haven't really looked into SRAM's offering. I'd say go flip flop.
I definitely rate that spoke key.

I found some interesting stuff about them. I dunno it seems maybe worth trying if it won't cost more than the flipflop. I'm thinking 36h too but don't know if that's a good idea or not 32h seems to be more available in some stuff.

http://mccraw.co.uk/sturmey-archer-s2c/
http://mccraw.co.uk/sram-automatix-review/

This mod too.

http://bikesfornoreason.blogspot.co.uk/2014/01/sram-automatix-2-speed-hack.html

If you were building a fancy pair of wheels, would you go with Royce or white industries hubs?

No.

A flip flop hub is much simpler than a two speed and yet they cost about the same? There has to be a qualitative difference in that case.
Find an old F & S 2 speed, otherwise stay single.