Current Projects chat and miscellany

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  • integrated crown race, pretty much all modern BMXs have this. I had no idea it was also a thing on carbonz

  • A lots of modern carbon fork have those as standard nowadays.

    Usually the one with alu/steel steerer tend to required a crown race.

  • Thanks for the responses. The fork isn't actually a Cervelo fork (the Soloist frames originally came with "Wolf" forks that were recalled), the fork is a Look HSC5sl, and according to fatbirds ( http://www.fatbirds.co.uk/1671876/products/look-hsc5sl-700c-fork-full-carbon-1-1-8-integrated-a-head--300mm-steerer--295g.aspx ) it's an integrated crown race. Reassuringly there seem to be multiple other threads out there asking the same question.

    Just been for a run, but I'm sure I'll have more questions as I begin assembly this evening :-)

  • They seem pretty great, the puncture was a pinch flat, so my own fault for not pumping them up to an uncomfortable enough pressure after being spoiled by the ride comfort of 32 mm+ tyres, then proceeding to ride fast over rock-covered gravel. Wheels and tyres together cost about £100 from wiggle with free overnight DHL shipping. Well pleased :)

  • isn't completely flush but also doesn't look unusual to me.

    Looks fine, there has to be some gap otherwise you can't go around corners. I think Look may have been first with the integrated bearing seat chamfer on carbon forks, on the HSC5 in or before 2004, but other manufacturers have started to copy it.

  • you need crown race

    I wish you'd told me that before I rode my 585 for 6 years without one :-)

  • Beginning to cut cables and outers... I hate this bit and internal cable routing is making me doubly trepidatious.

  • So after Saturday's epic ride around Epping Forest with @BareNecessities and co, my All-city nature boy disc was a little worst for wear.

    Stopping was the biggest issue as when I applied the disc brakes to stop the front and rear of the bike started to jump around and shake uncontrollably, so I decided to take the old gal to LMNH to see Sam to get his professional opinion and whether I just need to replace the brake pads, but when we took a quick look at the brakes there was plenty of pad left on, and the main cause seems to be the positioning of the disc and pad and how it was just grabbing onto the only top of the rotor.

    After that Sam looked at the rest of the bike and the chainring, cog, BB and Piece Of Shit Half link chain was in really bad nick, so these definitely needed to before the Rapha cyclo-cross event. Then Sam said he had a pair of TRP hylex lying around from a previous customer and needed to shift these with rotors, and would give me a good price, and if you know me and my 'beater' ethics I couldn't say no, so I said 'DO IT!!!'

    #CSB


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  • 6/10 bokeh

    my £15 mini V perform flawlessly btw ;)

  • Dropped the Time Machine off for a brake bleed and cable heat-shrink today, Mario pointed out that my brake pads were -cough- a little low:

  • What brakes did you have on there before?

  • Don't forget to change the pads, you'll wear out the stock pads in a month time.

    Who fit your old disc calipers anyway? it's a little worrying that they didn't even notice that the pads is not on the rotor properly.

  • I had the standard brakes that came with the bike (Hayes CX-Expert, 160mm rotors)

  • Haha! Cheers amey, think once I finishing tinkering with bikes I think photography will be my next hobby ;)

  • Thank Ed, genuinely don't know when to replace brake pads for disc, will take a mental photo when to replace these (what would you recommend)

    It was also at lmnh, though granted there wasn't anything wrong with these until I took the bike to Epping forest, where the wheels did feel like it was coming off the wagon!

  • Stock Shimano or Superstars pads will do.

  • Don't forget to buy spare pads for when you wear out the stock pads in a month

    Slightly less wasteful...

  • @HoKe - slightly unrelated but I notice you have a Cateye volt 1200 (i think) light? How do you find the performance? I've been considering getting one.

  • Good spot, it really depends on the purpose tbh, it's a decent commuting light, though bare in mind it is a little weighty but the build is definitely really solid and robust!

    Also bare in mind it is USB charge only.

  • Thanks Ho, yep essentially after a commuter light that I can switch to a higher power mode if I decide to take long way home. I currently use a volt 300 everyday but It would be nice to have a little more power for after work rides. USB only is fine.

  • New goldtec wheels on the daily thanks to @ChrisMGS


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  • this is awesome. I really want to get one of those frames but can't justify the price with a 27.2mm post.

    also @amey that american thing is awesome. very nice

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Current Projects chat and miscellany

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