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These are fantastic. I fancy building a bike cupboard out of an old airing cupboard space. mdf it. Anyone who knows what they are doing have any tips? Measure twice cut once and all that... Plan is to half the space with a big vertical piece and then bang in some shelves. Prob just crude joins/supports. What can go wrong? (I have a powersaw).
chrisbmx116-
Measure your space and decide what the largest square box that will fit in it is. Do not get this wrong, I use a laser level usually to check that the cupboard will be level and square on the upright, if the rest of the room is really pissed it can make it look weird. Don't forget to allow for a base made of something like 2x2 (depending how far you want it from the floor).
Whatever you do, make sure that the box will fit in the space, square. Make your life easy and add a back to the box, I prefer to have the back inside the edge of the box as it will help you to keep it square.
Download google sketch up and draw your cupboard properly, make sure all the joints line up properly and all the sheets are the correct width, put the shelves in it and make sure you allow little gaps for moving items like shelves, 1.5-3mm depending on how accurate you think your work will be. Make sure your doors have a 1.5mm gap. Yes, you will have to learn to use sketch up which could take a while but it's worth it.
Get the add on for sketch up which produces a cut list for the drawing. Double check you have no stupid measurements in there. Work out how to cut a board 2400x1200mm to get all your pieces. Allow for the very rough edges of the board to be cut off and factor in the width of the blade to your cuts (circa 4mm).
Go to or call your mdf supplier to have the board cut to size on their giant saw, drive it home or have it delivered, keep it dry and don't drop it in the process. Do not lean it against walls for a while or store it where it's too damp.
Make a level base with 2x2 or similar. You may need to plane the 2x2 to get the level or put wedges under it, hopefully you adjusted for this in your drawings.
Join the box together (with screws if you have no other option). For the most solid box use some glue too. Mount it on the base and fix to the walls at either side, ensuring it is straight. Always pilot drill and countersink and don't go crazy with the fixings to the wall, the cupboard should sit there on it's own pretty much especially if you've put a back in it.
Cut the holes for the hinges in the back of the door and mount the plates on the inside of the cupboard. They are based on a mathematical system revolving around 32mm called the 32mm system. You should have understood when you bought the hinges whether they are overlay or inset etc. etc. I have books with hundreds of hinge options in them, you will need to research it. Try the Hafele website. Mount the doors, test operation.
Mount the shelves on 5mm pins, you can get them with or without rubber, they are useful because you may want to move the shelves later on. Place plinth over base. Test operation of cupboard.
You may need to cut a piece of mdf to cover the gap between the edge of the cupboard and the wall, this should depend on how square your alcove is, you can use plaster or filler but it tends to crack out. You will need to decorate this to match the walls or the cupboard depending on which would look best.
Paint the inside of the box, and the doors and shelves removed from the cupboard. If you have a decent sander you can sand the edges of the mdf from 80 - 250 grit in stages which will give you smooth edges to paint on, otherwise using MDF primer from Leyland (Orange tin) paint the mdf and sand the edges back then repeat. you might have to sand the edges twice. Don't forget to denib before you paint with the chosen top coat. Waterbased paints do not survive well on shelves and some manufacturers paints don't cover well, try to use brushes specifically for the type of waterbased paint you are using. Oil paint is very durable and looks good but it takes a long time to dry so expect to leave it a while before you use the cupboard especially if it's not fully dry before you put the doors back on and close them.
Put the shelves in, doors back on, job done.
I might have missed some stuff out but that's a fairly straightforward way to achieve it. Design wise there are lots of little choices you can make.
Airhead
I don't know what your definition of reasonable is - I reckon a lot of people underestimate just how much work making and installing fitted wardrobes is personally - or how high end you want to go. But. We got three quotes from the people below:
Karl Rees
Nick McAuley
Ola Leander (who @dbr had done some work with)
In the end although Ola was slightly more expensive we went with him and were very happy with the end result. Spray lacquered with inset English elm (ignore the marks on the first photo, they're from the phone that took the picture so aren't really there). The top set of doors have a pull down wardrobe rail behind which is very practical and a great way to maximise use of space.
They were constructed and finished off site then installed, as @Airhead says that's the way to do it.
Ola is no longer in the business of built in stuff but we would genuinely have happily gone with one of the other two who were also recommended to us as they seemed really good too.
I think getting some decent ones installed before Christmas could be a challenge to be honest but good luck. @BQ knows a friendly carpenter so you might want to ask him too.