Wheelbuilding / Wheel Building / Wheel build help

A link a few pages back on this thread found a similar result. This used a computer model that wasn't self-learning though, but used a try-out of several patterns.

But we do know it's possible to have strong 20 spoke wheels as well, so I guess there are some limitations. (and weird Mavic half radial rears that don't seem to explode)

Still, a nice project and a worthwhile area :D

Mavic half radial rears that don't seem to explode

Full radial fronts, on the other hand...

Bad spokes?

It won't work if you try to build a wheel with angel hair :p

24h rear shallow alu rim (DT R460) for CX, bad idea?

DT say you can CX on the R23, which is basically a 24H R460 on the back

Building with deep carbon rims really is alot less intimidating than you think it's going to be.

What are the chances that one of these actually gives repeatable results? I am tempt

I am brave

lmftfy

What are the chances that one of these actually gives repeatable results?

Surprisingly good. It's just a spring and a dial gauge. The former is either broken or working, and as it turns out, for the most part, so is the latter; tests on cheap digital measuring instruments show pretty good accuracy and precision, even when they are carried out by snobs who are trying to justify buying a Mitutoyo

I've bought some dt swiss revolution spokes to lace to dt swiss 240s hubs, but the hub flange seems far too thick and the spokes don't sit in the holes correctly. do I just continue going and they'll pull straight during truing, or is it possible i bought the wrong spokes?

edit: think I just put them through the wrong way...

Not the answer I was expecting. Will the dt swiss calibration chart will apply do you think?

Will the dt swiss calibration chart will apply do you think?

Only if they have exactly copied the DT spring rate, which is less likely than their ability to source a usable dial gauge. You either trust their calibration, or you entertain us all by building a test stand to do your own calibration.

Do it!

They don't provide a conversion chart :/

Spoke head punch?

I have seldom needed to punch spokes in but I really ought to get one for when they're not bedding in diring lacing. Sounds like you should too.

I think I'd just put the inwards spokes in the outwards holes and vice versa. Switching them over seemed to sold the problem at least and they went together beautifully in the end, rather proud of myself by the end of the day (they're only the 3rd set I've ever built)

*possibly slightly early celebrations

24h rear, 2 cross?

24h rear, 2 cross?

That's the usual pattern.

Finally a spoke broke on one of the 50mm carbon track wheels (rear) I've build for mates - broke on the last few hundred km's from Oslo to Copenhagen and the stiffness of the carbon rim and the 28h 2X only lead to 2mm bulge and was rideable for the rest of the trip - now replaced the spoke.

The other will have fatigued more spoke failures are on there way. I would have rebuilt the wheel.

Any possible downside to getting a load of CX Ray spokes professionally shortened 4mm for £10 so I can luxuriate in the DT Swiss R460 goodness and ditch Open Pros at last?

If you're re-using the spokes from an existing wheel, just make sure you batch up the inbound and outbound spokes separately and put them back in the same orientation once they've been shortened.

Thanks

Any possible downside to getting a load of CX Ray spokes professionally shortened 4mm for £10 so I can luxuriate in the DT Swiss R460 goodness and ditch Open Pros at last?

I'd be interested in this answer to this question for a similar goal.

you're re-using the spokes from an existing wheel, just make sure you batch up the inbound and outbound spokes separately and put them back in the same orientation once they've been shortened.

Damn, if only I'd read this a couple of weeks ago. I have since made the mistake of mixing them twice.