Locks that work

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  • Hey Jonny69, there is a specific reason they didn't reply. The answer would be an enormous help to professional thieves. Thieves could plan exactly how long it would take to steal a really expensive bike. They could calculate their total theft and getaway time that way.

    Pragmasis is their main competitor, and are represented on this thread too. @Pragma will come along to help I'm sure. I do know he has sent out sample individual links, but their company would be as wary of helping thieves as Almax are. I'd say the chains are of the same quality at 16mm and 19mm, but Pragmasis will go that extra bit further for customer service.

  • Hi Jonny69,

    GA2G is right. I am tempted to suggest that you might want to edit your post to remove the detail you've got near the bottom of it as many thieves may not know that such things exist.

    Just imagine if a thief normally takes 'x' minutes to cut a chain and you tell him about a way of doing it quicker than that? He will surely investigate the advantage. If you also tell him about a tool he doesn't know about, even more so. We all have to be very careful about this. Ditto when cutting D-locks etc etc. There are doubtless thieves reading this thread, too.

    We would be happy to post you an offcut of our 16mm chain as you will get the same results as with chopping up your own. (Perhaps also the 11mm/13mm and 19mm.) PM or e-mail me your address (info@pragmasis.com). However, that would be on the condition that you don't reveal anything that could be useful to thieves. You can put comparative timings on here if you wish so people can make their own judgement on the extra benefit from 19mm over 16mm for that type of attack, given your tool/situation/skill, but we would not want actual figures, even if you're terrible at cutting chains ...as the thief might be even worse! :-)

    I hope that make sense?

  • Good points which I hadn't considered, GA2G and Pragma. I've edited some of the detail out of my post. @Pragma - dropped you a line via email.

  • Besides the excellent product photo showing a handsome lady using the lock to attach thin air to a cycle rack, what do we think of 'Noke'?

    http://www.firebox.com/product/7037/Noke-The-Worlds-First-Bluetooth-Padlock

  • Oh hey atRobHurst. Sorry, but I had to crop the supplier image to a square to fit it into the square space we use on the site. That I can tell you that the sample we have in the office is pretty good for a lock, and with the right chain being used (and not being draped over the frame loosely) then I wouldn't be worried using the Noke as a padlock.

    There is a shackle lock in the works too that seems to be a great solution for a secondary lock.

  • Looks interesting for sure - I like the fact that no battery doesn't mean no bike...

  • Looks a bit on the thin side, nice idea but needs to be a lot heftier with more shackle protection to cut the mustard in these parts.

    But then your average hipster would be put off by the increased weight and price point.

  • As a padlock, I wouldn't be able to say. But for bicycle security, I can say. Definitely a NO, as it could be clipped off in one second. Maybe two seconds at the outside. Not recommended at all for bicycles.

  • If you already have a chain, then use it to lock on ground anchor.In practice there is a better/much cheaper solution, for main locking you can use one U-Lock a length of about 25 cm.

    In this demonstration video, i used Masterlock 8196 with 16mm shackle diameter.I recommend OnGuard Brute LS, not because i endorse OnGuard, but because this model is pretty cheap but very strong and robust.;)

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jlQp3VounhA

    For front wheel locking to bicycle frame, you can use second U-lock(standard size 23cm) of your choice.And here i also offer one recommendation, new Decathlon 720/740 U-Lock, or very cheep but very good for such low price.This model is incomparably better and more robust, compared to "Kryptonite Keeper junk U-Lock series" for the same price.

    https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BzFrxTwtpH4FU1lKMlJBLXpvWWM/view?usp=sharing

    Decathlon BTWIN 720/740 U-Locks

    • shackle diameter 14mm/double locking

    • internal automatic keyhole cover+ external manual plastic ring keyhole cover

    • new locking sistem or key, virtually identical to OnGuard U-Lock series locking sistem

  • The idea is not bad, but the ground anchor would have to be much more substantial that one in the given example. I'd also be worried about the u-lock being bottlejacked close to the ground. Way too much space available for that.

    Its a helpful option, but just not fully thought through. I would not recommend it as it is presented.

  • And a 14mm u-lock would be an absolute joke in that context. Please have a read of the first post of this thread (back on page 1) and you'll see the reason for disapproval.

  • If you read description under the video on Youtube, then where is the problem or what is unclear?;)Who buys a ground anchor with 10mm shackle diameter, as this example on my Yotube video?This is just a simple demonstration, or how to do it video for beginners;)

    "This is not a steel ground anchor, this is obviously just a cardbord/plastic model!"

    If you carefully reading what someone writes, the you now(or maybe not) what is my recommendation for front wheel locking to bicycle frame.

    "U-Lock with shackle dimeter under 16mm=they are completely useless or junk or not worth mentioning", this eyes wide shut philosophy does not need my the same answer again.;)

    https://www.lfgss.com/comments/12414431/

    https://www.lfgss.com/comments/12416571/

  • Might I suggest your comments (and video) might be more welcome in the "How to lock your bike" thread? That is more about general locking techniques.

    This thread is designed to list, and discuss, locks which will prevent or significantly hinder a professional bike thief in London. I think @GA2G has tried to explain this to you a number of times.

    For sure your videos are insight and helpful to some people, in some places other than London, but not the intended readers of this thread.

  • Dambek, you are entitled to your opinion, but as has been explained to you by others, this is a serious thread. You say you have knowledge and experience in bicycle security, but I don't see that at all. I see entirely the opposite.

    I don't know your background, but I can tell you mine. I am a director of a security company. I travel all over the UK providing assessments of security set ups and suggesting improvements. Its my profession - I look for weaknesses in security...... Get it? That's why I apply some free time to this thread.

    You have not helped, you have not understood what this thread is about. Videos on YouTube don't make someone an expert I'm afraid. Who I am and what I do can be verified by some people on this forum.

    Please start your own thread, as you are providing misinformation. And by the way, I read very well thank you. I doubt that I could do my job without it.

  • Sorry, I am too lazy to read 109 pages, can someone quickly tell me if the Kryptonite Evo Mini is still acceptable, or are there too many reports of thefts with that lock involved?

    Just asking as I remember it is still one of the most common, and I need a new lock for a medium value beater. If the Evo is obsolete, what is an equal-size/weight replacement?

  • Sorry, I'm too lazy to read them for you.

  • You don't need to read all 109 pages. The list in the first post summarises what is on the recommended primary locks list.

    Mini evo is where it has always been, on the secondary locks list. https://www.lfgss.com/conversations/194773/

  • The Evo is quite old, and even the update is pickable: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GiJ3DzW_tII

    Because of it being very popular, it could easily be that thieves have learned how to do this by now.
    That is why I am wondering if there is a better alternative in the same weight/size class.

  • Damnit, this could have saved me some money when my lock jammed and wouldn't accept the key.

    What about the Abus Granit Plus 640? It's more expensive but feels more solid.

  • Abus Granit Plus 640 is more expensive, but in this case there is a very good reason for higher price.;)

    https://www.lfgss.com/comments/12127342/

  • But it still has the same faults like the other locks I tried.
    The Kryptonite wouldnt open from time to time, until I rattle the key in the lock to get the cylinders loose.

    The Abus instead won't close half of the time. It seems the internal mechanism only engages if you slam the shackle into the lock with some force. And it's near new...

    Any hints on proper lock lubrication?

  • I've got a few kryptonites and abuses alike, they've all done this at various points in time. I think it's more to do with aligning the discs so you can fit the key all the way in than loosening them. I found gentle inward pressure while I rotated the key back and forth did the trick. You'll find it after you've unlocked/locked in a rush as you don't pull the key out quite straight.

    The Abus is doing that because it's got tight tolerances. A bit of use and it'll loosen up the tiny bit it needs. Be thankful it isn't as slack as an old kryptonite! They're much better made.

  • Yes, apart from the annoying "will not close" thing, the Abus feels much more solid and well made than the Kryptonite. No rattling etc.


  • Just helped a friend defeat her own lock after someone attacked the barrel during the day as it was locked up. Tried drilling it but previous attackers had made such a mess of barrel that it was a no go.
    So ended up with building maintenance team help us dismantle and lower the sign, then take the lot indoors to an engineering department and cut it off. Had a big angle grinder with me + 35m of cable but needed at least another 30m!
    Turns out for a £25 lock to have put up a decent resistance. Not to cutting, but the way in which the barrel failed was useful.

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Locks that work

Posted by Avatar for GA2G @GA2G

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