Proper selvedge jeans

album: https://goo.gl/photos/D6vC4MQYQ4rfLqX98

I'm having trouble finding a simple image host that will have both albums and allows me to embed single photos with direct links...

cotton:

spinning:

so after cleaning and carting the cotton all the rest of the spinning process is just about uncurling and aligning the fibers. That takes a lot of similar steps before the actual ring spinning where the yarn is finally twisted and wound on small spools.
Each yarn has a designation code, the number is the gauge (higher number = thinner yarn) the other numbers tells about the kind of slubs, twist counts, fiber composition and if theres any "performace yarn" (stretch) core spun into it.

dyeing:
The dyeing range is just pure awesome! 80 metres long, the path of the yarn is 500 metres, up and down and round. Through 14 baths. first 3 are cleaning and preparation, then 7 indigo baths and 3 cleansing and starching before a steam treatment, drying and winding back on loom ready beams.

This is the slasher dyeing method which means that the yarns are warped beforehand and goes through on a format that matches the loom. This method is much harder to get right as any imperfections are not uniformly spread like with rope dying. Furthermore if a yarn breaks you have to stop the machine and discard the entire 500 metres in it.

weaving:
Regretfully I was not allowed to take photos of the most important and interesting part of the factory, the shuttle looms.
But here you see the modern projectile looms. Due to the weight and vibrations each of the looms stand on pillars in the basement independent of the floor construction. In the basement you can feel the pillars vibrating. The finished fabric also run through slits in the floor to be collected on rolls in the basement. That makes it much easier to get around between the looms and similarly you can maneuver the fabric rolls around when collecting them without disturbing the looms.

Anyone potentially interested in some Gustin silk grey or some Ed-55 black? Gustin's are brand new. Ed-55's have had a wash. Both have just been taken up by new alteration company here and been made TOO F*CKING SHORT for me...can't believe it. Gustin's are 36x33 Ed-55's are 34x33 - wish I'd left well alone. Can get exact measurements if anyone's potentially interested. Gustins are slim fit...darker grey. Denim is unbelievably good.

^^ nice photos

How tall are you @d-goods? I'm 6'2 and usually wear a 33" leg. Would your 55s fit me?

I'm 6'2 also. I wanted to wear 'em with a small double turn-up but I can only get away with one. Let me get a tape measure on both pairs exact and I'll let you know.

^I'd prolly take ED-55s if @d-goods doesn't want them. I'm 6' on the nose and have 34 waist Edwins fit me good.

^sorry meant @mashton obvs, still early and only halfway through my coffee. Anyway he's far too lanky and skinny!

Thanks

I just added some words so you get an idea of what you're actually looking at.

Great work, @drøn! Where was the mill?

thank you. just outside of milan.
I arrived at Malpensa early afternoon and saw the old facility after a lunch with the owner, then a night out, sleep and a tour of the modern mill in the other end of the town next morning before heading home. 24 pretty intense hours.

I've not been called skinny for a great many years. Thanks @Olly398.

dron, that's superb, thanks for sharing.

Bad luck d-goods. If it makes you feel any better I ruined the grey Guffed-ins i bought off you a while back by making them too short also.

I might have another go with these if you've still got them? Meet up central next week? What do you want for them?

For sellz: I have some new 35" black on black straight fit Gustins up for grabs if anyone's interested. They're unworn, black-hole black and cardboard stiff. Will measure and take pics this weekend.

I also have some Gustins to flip. Grey/slate selvedge 33s. I got them off here but haven't worn them (other than once to the shops). They aren't a slim on me as I thought (read that they would fit like a 31) so they arent any use. I paid £52 i think but any offer plus postage and happy to pass them on.

Just realised that I am talking bollocks. I wear a 36" leg.

Doh.

Just realised that I am talking bollocks.

This is not news...

all this talk of flipping pairs...

bought these > http://www.lfgss.com/comments/12195572/ < for no1 son, he wore once, so going cheap to good home, also throw in a free pair of aubergine PS chinos

actually 31" long, but quite deep crotch so they can pass as 33"

any interest, pm please

I would definitely be interested in the black on black mate

thanks again, love the huge projectile looms and the fabric dropping through the floor! Thanks for sharing.

interested in these, are they the straight or slim cut?

Workshirt elbow pat hes sorted for the foreseeable future.

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