-
• #104527
-
• #104528
yassssssss
-
• #104529
And rainy if you are still in Graz ;) Double spengle looks good, white saddle and tan walls clash a bit?
-
• #104530
Excuse the quality of the pic.
Daily/commuter build.
Picked this up locally, stickers tell me it's an Onza Billy Comp. Tange Prestige tubing, Deore DX everywhere, besides seatpost which is XT. It's currently a 1x7 setup, using the front derailleur as a chain guide until I get something else, maybe a Paul chainkeeper.
The owner bought the Conti's this spring, so they're still in great shape. He also threw on some new Kool Stop pads, but did not bother setting them up properly as he was already riding his new bike. I have a fork mounted cable stop/guide coming, but I'm debating swapping to some v-brakes, possible mini-v brakes.When I got the bike I threw on the Flite saddle, but that still needs to be adjusted. I also put on some Eclat plastic flat pedals, but they're very worn, so I might grab something else. besides that I'm going to change the stem to something longer and lower as I feel very upright on this bike.
-
• #104531
really good.
v brakes and longer stem and its perfect. -
• #104532
Any recommendations for v-brakes? The only reason I'm debating keeping the cantis is that I'd have more clearance for fenders.
-
• #104533
That's a pretty good reason.
-
• #104534
new cockpit on my omnium mini max.
-
• #104535
Yeah, problem is I've never worked with cantis, I managed to get the front setup well but couldn't get the rear. Will probably stop by a shop tomorrow and have them do it for peace of mind.
-
• #104536
Could you not cut the steerer down and flip the stem the other way round?
-
• #104537
There are lots of online resources on setting them up - visuals are king in clarifying techniques. One thing that helps is using new pads with little bump outs on them (like Kool Stop) that automatically toe them in. Combine that with setting up the brakes against the rim, leaving yourself room to adjust away from it.
-
• #104538
Indeed, as for clashing its just what was there at the time
-
• #104539
ive think about it many times.. hmm :)
-
• #104540
I couldn't get enough power with mine untill a mechanic in the LBS showed me a simple trick. Tension the cable untill the pads hit the rim, set both pads so they are touching the rim with the full surface, tighten them as strong as you can wthout breaking anything, slacken the cable a bit and fine tune with the barrel adjuster. Your DX should be similiar to mine in design, which are STX, and are as strong as any V-brakes I rode with.
-
• #104541
-
• #104542
This is very tidy
-
• #104543
Experimental glitter clearcoat
1 Attachment
-
• #104544
I've got them working pretty well now. Only issue with the set up is the cable hanger , but that's a minor issue right now.
-
• #104545
Anyone know of any 3rd party manufactures for hope headset bearings, for their conventional 1 1/8 external headset - I need HS123 and would rather not spend £16...
EDIT: are they the same cartridge bearings that you find in FSA/ Canecreek/ nukeproof headsets?
-
• #104546
not 100% sure but I think the one you're after is a 45deg angular contact bearing 30.5mm id, 41mm od, 6.5mm thickness - Enduro do replacements, but they're no cheaper -
http://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/p152848/ENDURO+ACB36x45SS+Stainless+Steel+Headset+Bearing+30.5x41x6.5mm/product_info.html -
• #104547
would rather not spend £16...
It's actually a pretty reasonable price for a cartridge bearing.
-
• #104548
Thanks Rik
I thought I had heard somewhere that pratically all threadless external headsets were the same design by cane creek, so presumed they might all share cartridge bearing design too...
Guess I just have to suck it up
-
• #104549
looks neat - how did you do it?
-
• #104550
It is just glittery nail polish, I would quite like to get some with silver glitter and try that on a few things...
Did you have a c-stem before? I think mine should really be replaced and I was wondering what a 695 would look like with a 'normal' stem. Pretty good it seems.