Anyone know anything about disc brakes?

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  • Hayes sole.

    Woooo, retro. OK, in the past people have done silly things like build single-sided hydraulic brakes, but now we know better and don't do things like that.

  • if spyre and hylex cost the same which one should I opt for? I know spyre offers shifter/lever freedom etc but the bike will run DT/bar end shifter and a 1x set up.

  • Hylex all the way.

    Replace pads with Shimano but that's it.

    Adjustable reach too.

  • Boom perfect; thanks!

  • Fuck that
    Di2 hydraulics and then mount a climbers shifter button to the downtube for faux retro grouch.

  • Nope
    Should I be doing that

    I would say not.

    If the calliper alignment is set up with the wheel/axle fully seated in the dropouts and the skewer correctly tightened/closed* then there should be no need to hold the brake nor to make any adjustments following the removal and refitting of the wheel.

    *I have made the mistake myself of doing inital setup with the wheel poorly installed then wondering why the brake is rubbing after a wheel removal/reinstall.

    Is it purely removing and refitting the wheel that's throwing things out or have you been taking wheel off to transport in the car then reinstalling and having issues? Ie, could calliper be being bumped or lever applied while the wheel is out?

    Do you use a pad spacer when the wheel is off? I could see it being plausible that the change from being upright (in the shed, while riding etc) to laying flat (in the back of the car) could cause pad movement without the lever or calliper being bumped. Storing upside down or vertically can certainly have an adverse effect on hydros.

    Could your axle be bent? If it were and you were setting the brake up with the bend in one orientation and then removing the wheel and refitting with the bend in another orientation could (I would imagine) potentially throw the calliper alignment off.

  • Yeah, all this holding the brakes while putting the wheel in seems odd. Wheel should be in properly, brake should be set up to that. If it's rubbing after refitting you're probably tightening the QR more or less than when you set it up and that's compressed things more or less than before, moving things over a bit. Tighten yo QRs consistently.

  • I find a bit of weight centred over the wheel helps seat the axle properly.

    Got to be centred tho

  • ha! this is for wife's 1x9 talbot commuter.
    @edscoble have you got Hylex I can have a look?

  • dude you just did on my Elephants.

  • Thru-axle Cervelo.

    Here we go

  • The Hylex can be adapted to run Di2 using a climbers button. Perfect for that 1x10 or 1x11 drivetrain.

  • anyone seen a better deal than this for some commuter disc brakes:
    http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/shimano-altus-m355-disc-brake-set/rp-prod129562

  • Looks cool. For £30. Some of the comments suggest the front brake is plumbed in to the left hand lever, so you might need to faff around a bit, or put up with it.

  • My back brake has complete given up, I'm able to hold the brake fully down and still pedal as if nothing was trying to stop. I have the Shimano BR-CX77 it was working on Tuesday not sure what has happened since then.

    Can't see any obvious issues which is worrying.

  • Frayed cable? Oil on rotor? Missing one pad? Best to take the setup apart and have a good look.

  • Bought the acera ones for an extra 2 quid. only going a low level commuter so a full set for that price seems pretty unbeatable - looks like its right hand front brake too.

  • BR-CX77

    Dial the static pad in?

  • Sorry your have to explain, am a complete novices when it comes to disc brakes...

    #Goesofftogoogle

  • There will be an Allen key on the wheel side of the disc (I think it's 3mm) turn it clockwise a bit, spin the wheel, repeat until it rubs the rotor, then back it off a touch until it doesn't.

  • Thanks, just found the same info on google, will give that a go.

  • Worked like a charm, good to know what to do if that should happen again.

  • The Allen bolt that controls the position of the outboard pad (opposite side of the brake to the one you've just adjusted and 2.5 mm) turns much more freely than I'd like on mine. It might be worth checking that one as well.

  • Any developments? Got them installed yet?

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Anyone know anything about disc brakes?

Posted by Avatar for Sanddancer @Sanddancer

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