Any question answered...

Don't you live in the Canadian tundra?

Yep, but we've had access to steel and other modern alloys for years.

I use the most intimidating padlock I can find

That wouldn't intimidate a sturdy pair of scissors. At minimum you want a shrouded hasp

Yep, but we've had access to steel and other modern alloys for years.

Are arctic hares normally equipped with bolt-croppers?

A sturdy pair of scissors in your hands maybe.

Even in a city as small as Leeds.

Id be inclined to use an intentionally weak padlock to prevent any would be thieves damaging the shed which would be more of a nuisance.

I have a feeling #Dammit would be hard-pressed to find a shed that was worth more than his accumulated bikes.

I recently purchased one of those Pragmasis chain & lock combos (2m 16mm chain, squire Ss65 lock) for my motorbike after a recent spate of thefts from outside work. It's a 10kg beast but peace of mind now they've fitted ground anchors in a set of bays. I whole heartedly recommend.

Also try not to store power tools - particularly angle grinders in the same shed, thieves will use them to steal moar stuff.

If I maintain trail (by increasing head tube angle) and reduce stack (by shortening headtube length) is there any other issues to contend with when using a long fork on a potential custom cyclocross frame?

Bought a new lock after nearly 8 years of good service of my kryptonite new york lock.
I'm using the frame mount this time and have a quick question about it.
I've got it set up like like in the picture below (except on the other side), no issues with heel hitting it and not bothered about the bottle cage. Is there anything blindingly obvious I'm missing as to why this is not a smart place to mount a d-lock?

if it swings around into the wheel it could act as a very abrupt brake!

Yeah good point, I angled it out as much as I can before it hits my heel.
Have about 3cm clearance from the nearside spokes.
Guess I could put some loctite on the threads just to be safe.

my worry is that bouncing through a pothole or similar could make it jump into the spokes

ftfy

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Hmm that's true.
Might have to rethink the placement.
Main reason for having it facing back was so that it wouldn't hinder carrying the bike under the top tube.

@withered_preacher
That's fabulous, all problems solved with the beautiful peacock feather mesh.

Just going to mount it higher so the seat stay acts as a barrier.

There is a grinder in the garage, with enough cutting discs to go through most things- but no power, I have to run an extension cable out from the flat.

I wonder if a 2m chain would go through the main triangle of all my bikes?

Might hit the rear brake? You could use a velcro strap or something to secure it a bit more onto the stay.

Other suggestion place is hanging in the middle towards the front. If it swings a bit much then maybe use a bungee cord like on my pompino around head tube and seat tube(imagine my triangle bag is where the lock will be) so it might swing a little but not out into your knees. The bungee cord and lock holder might rub the frame a little as expected but worth thinking about if you hate scuffs/marks of any sort.

So a while ago I bought a thing from a shop. That thing immediately broke. I returned it to the shop asking for refund, but they seem to think that their distributor of things gets the final say on whether the thing was defective or, by implication, I was ham-fisted.

Is this in any way legit?

No, your sale agreement is with the shop not with the distributor.

Yes - this is what I thought. Do you know which reg I could site when I unleash the fury on them?

Do you know which reg I could site when I unleash the fury on them?

Cite the Sale of Goods Act 1979 (as amended)

Thanks both :)

The thing had a value of £50. I've spent a fair whack at their stores. My mind boggles at their approach on this one. Doubly bonkers given they've had the thing for two months since I returned it.