Anyone know anything about disc brakes?

Are there any shops in London where I can buy compressionless cable housing by the meter?

Why do my Hope Tech 3 levers occasionally weep small amounts of fluid from the resevoir cap?

As I understand it, this is a 'feature', but I'd be interested to know why it's needed.

AFAIK too much oil in the system.

sound like it need setting up, pads on non moving side need to be as close to the rotor as possible without rubbing.

Check if the rotor need truing if there's a small rubs at every rotation.

Once you sort that out, you can now adjust the amount of modulation on the moving side.

For improved performance enough to gain a sharp bite like you would get on rims brakes, compressionless housing is highly recommended.

Thermal expansion? Absorption of moisture?

I'd be surprised if it's fluid being focibly exjected from the system by heat, because it seems to happen randomly. I wonder if it's a mixture of trapped moisture and excess dot fluid left on the outside of the seal from when the cap is tightened down.

Was nice to see that from our week in Morzine they were the only brakes not to suffer some kind of sticking / screeching / heating failure. X2 caliper and a 180mm rotor did feel a little underbraked for some black sections tho

In other news...

285g pair apparently.

Same as juin tech r1 by the looks of it (have a pair on order for my tcx)

I know it's not in London, but Chain Reaction Cycles sell Goodridge housing by the metre.

Great, thanks for the tip

It doesn't specifically say it's compressionless, can we assume it is because it's braided?

Yeah I noticed that...wonder who copied who or if they come from the same design / factory.

Anyway ordered a pair - let's compare when they arrive.

I did, bought some and it turned out fine.

Think @coventry_eagle had/has good things to say about it too...

I believe it is. I've just looked but can't find the review I read previously. I do recall it stating the housing was particularly inflexible.

Cheers for the shout @andy_k

Yeah Ed they're compressionless housing. If you need to chop them off, use a dremel instead of normal cable cutters to maintain the round shape. The outer comes with PTFE liner which reduces friction.

While you're at it might be worth while to get the Goodridge cables too as they are also PTFE coated. No grease needed, just lube them with GT85.

Since we're on the subject, if you're running MTB levers, plenty of BMX brands does compressionless (linear cables/non-binding etc) too. My favorite is from BLANK which comes with PTFE inner and coated cables and you can get them for a fiver from eBay. This is the guy I bought from: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Blank-Bikes-Linear-BMX-Bicycle-Brake-Cable-/171212332357?var=&hash=item27dd0cdd45 Out of black though

Thanks Ben, good to know. Do you have a dremel? In the past I've poked some old inner in to the section I'm cutting to stop the outer getting deformed too much but I can see why a dremel would be best.

I'm hoping I don't need to recable (changing stem) but if I do I've got some options now (which aren't £20 jagwire). Thanks all

How much worse would having a 160 disc in 180 set up cause braking to be :-/

Sigh.

Worth doing a couple of practice cuts on the old housing with the dremel if you can get your hands on one, if you cut too slowly the outer gets too hot and shrivels up/melts.

They look nice. For the new CX biek?

Not good. The pads wont be in full contact with the rotor, possible brake failure? Dont know, but rather not try and find out.

Unfortunately nope, dont have one. Used one of my former housemate's when I had to set my brakes the last time.

andy's advice is sound, definitely practice first with old outers.

Depends how tall the pad is. I accidentally did this at the HH Halloween bench tourney in the rain and it forced me to play at a speed commensurate with the rain and my hangover.

My polo bike has for the last four months had a 160mm rotor on the front... Now I look closly there's about enough room for 2cm more rotor! Might explain the disappointing stopping power I've had with the bb7! But actually there's a fair amount of pad contact so it's not dangerous, just lot less than optimal.

Figured it was better to get a bigger rotor than different adapter, but if there's any advantage of 160 over 180 I'd like to hear it (other than tiny bit of weight saving)? I assume 180 for better stopping power?

@moog I got a dremil clone off eBay for £20 from China, you can borrow it if you want... If you want to pick it up from polo?

You mean 1cm more rotor? Or is your adapter for 203mm rotors which might explain the 2cm gap?

1cm more each side -> 180mm, right?

Should say a size on the adaptor (eg "180F/160R")

That would be great, thanks. My new stem should arrive today so I'll let you know if I'll need it.