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• #4503
Since there's a lot of gear ratio chat...
I'm still in 10 speed mode, 12-25 cassette with 53/39 up front. I normally just stick to the big ring slightly too high up the block because I find the cadences when using the inner ring slightly off or just out of rhythm. If that makes sense? I have run with a 50/34 compact before but found the 34 ring useless as it was far too spinny.
My cranks are force 22 so could I change the rings 51/37? If those rings even exist I imagine they're expensive. Or new cassette, Sram so not too expensive. -
• #4505
Will I suffer stupidly in the Alps on 52/36 11x28? This is with the 5800 group. I'd buy a new cassette but annoyingly I have a short cage mech so would need another one of them too.
I'm fairly fit but by no means an animal. I have found myself on 36/28 on the steeper Surrey climbs, for example. I've been told that I'll be fine, but the fact that it was 43 degrees on the Alpe during the Marmotte is making me nervous...
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• #4506
Depends how light you are, how fit you are, and what your climbing style is like. The Alps generally don't get that steep, averaging 7-8% for most climbs. Do you know what sort of power you'll be climbing at? If you do, it's relatively easy to work out your climbing speed, and from that you can calculate your cadence for any particular gearing.
Generally though a 36 inner chainring rather than a 34 isn't a massive difference, so I'd say you should be OK.
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• #4507
I'm light (67 kg) for my height so I have no real excuse. Not sure on power but I generally find I can climb fairly quickly compared to the guys I often ride with. I do prefer to go for it out of the saddle which will have to change :)
I guess I'll just have to used to a different style. Reckon I'll stick with what I've got and spend the rest on recovery beer.
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• #4508
36:28 is as low as you will need unless you're completely feeble. The Alps aren't that step and you are a whippet.
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• #4509
Niiice. I'm reassured. And so is my bank.
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• #4510
Indeed only 0.2km/h faster then my 34/27 at 90rpm.
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• #4511
Depends how much you prefer grinding to spinning. I did a hefty tour on 53x39 12-28 and was pushing 40rpm a bit, but mainly to avoid heatstroke as it was 40 deg at times.
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• #4512
Not really. Are you just uncomfortable at high cadence? Do some cadence drills and go on regular easy, spinny, hilly rides (seated) and sort your pedal stroke out? #armchaircoach
I don't think they exist. Fit a 50 and 38t perhaps. That's actually a really nice combo IMO.
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• #4513
May actually do that, 50/38 does sound good. It's weird, I spin much better fixed than on the roadie. I guess momentum helps smooth the pedal stroke when fixed. On the road bike I feel better when pushing a bigger gear. Probably just need more time to sort my circles out.
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• #4514
Riding fixed can lead to a lazy pedal stroke for some people.
Cadence drills are back in fashion. It's the new Z3 :P
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• #4515
SRAM fanboys:
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• #4516
Are your fixed cranks shorter than your road ones? It's easier to make smaller cirlces.
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• #4517
Forum recommendations of Gear & Brake cable sets? Need to re-cable my CAAD10.
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• #4518
New shimano cables are pretty damn good.
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• #4519
Are your fixed cranks shorter than your road ones? It's easier to make smaller cirlces.
Yeah, by 7.5mm. I don't think it makes a difference. More likely laziness and letting my peddling go sloppy. Actually been forcing myself to ride the roadie, even on commutes and been spinning away in the 39t upfront. Keep doing wheelies away from the lights. Quite fun and it's definitely feeling smoother and easier to sustain a high cadence with a freewheel.
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• #4520
It does make a difference - otherwise track sprinters would all be on longer cranks for more leverage. Cervelo research into crank length says that those who could adapt to shorter cranks found the following:
For example, the difference between 165 and 175 is about 5%; some athletes find themselves in a gear about 5% easier than before, with a matching cadence about 5% higher. Coincidentally, the difference between a “compact” 50 tooth chain ring and a 53 is close to 5%. Likewise 20 and 21 teeth are about 5% different. - See more at: http://www.cervelo.com/en/engineering/ask-the-engineers/crank-length.html#sthash.DJGHRpm8.dpuf
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• #4521
this, SP41 and polymer coated inner, cheapest available on bike discount de plus no aftermarket cableset comes with short nose tongue that is required at shifter for 11 speed groupsets.
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• #4522
they are but... the fibre they're wrapped in will clog the outers when you remove them, particularly between the ferrule and the outer.
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• #4523
short nose tongue that is required at shifter for 11 speed groupsets
Explain plz: whatever it is, I'm pretty sure I haven't fitted it...
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• #4524
the fibre they're wrapped in will clog the outers
Noticed that too: just from fitting and fettling, the coating has "fluffed" a lot.
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• #4525
http://si.shimano.com/php/download.php?file=pdf/dm/DM-RD0003-06-ENG.pdf Page 4
http://si.shimano.com/php/download.php?file=pdf/dm/DM-ST0002-04-ENG.pdf Page 9, 10, 11
Its not end of the world; one of my bike doesn't have it which also doesn't shift as well; you can buy it here: http://www.evanscycles.com/products/shimano/sp41-outer-gear-casing-cap-ec057459
Cheers.
Tiagra is a bit more attractive than Claris I guess, but that SunXCD does look like a really good option... a little pricey so I guess it's time to set up some ebay search notifications. Plus I'm in no rush.
I'm also wondering about just having a look through older 8 speed options, but I'd rather have something with a longer cage just in case, so a lot of the old road stuff is out.