Wheelbuilding / Wheel Building / Wheel build help

Mavic EX721 or the 729 are robust.

Pick a hub with similar hub dimensions. Simples.

I cant remember the build you are doing but with lasers I always round down because they do "stretch". After stress relieving there is quite a big tension drop and if you round up by 0.2mm you can end up running out of thread and get wind up which is simply a pain. I have learnt how much you can round down and up to 1.5mm with laser generally causes no problems. Also laser come in odd mm lengths only. Even with sapim race spokes I tend to round down as rounding up can causing dishing issues unless I am using black race spokes then I sometimes have to round up as they come in 2mm increments also.

Your ERD measurment must be wrong for you to come with spokes that are 4mm too long. you have measured the ERD haven't you rather than assuming a number taken of the web?

Yes I measured again and again - must be the heat driving me mad.

Heh, yeah, that is the obvious bit - but how to I find the hubs with similar dimensions without pot-luck trawling specifications, which is both boring and time consuming.

Tx for info :)

Any thoughts on mavic cxp33?

It would be for winter so ryde pulse may not be ideal therefore. Currently running old stock Ambrosio balance...nothing spectacular but solid and not overly heavy ^=^

Does anybody have any experience with these BOR rims from bike24?

http://www.bike24.com/1.php?content=8;navigation=1;product=54665;page=1;menu=1000,4,301;mid=0;pgc=0;orderby=3

Or these ones?

http://superlight-bikeparts.de/Criterium-Drahtreifen-Drahtreifenfelge-Aluminiumfelge-Rennradfelge-Rennfelge-Leichtbau-Roadrim-Bicyclerim-Bikerim-Bike-Rim-Clincher-Clincher-rim

Last built I did was a rear mavic open sport in 36 plain gauge spokes...yeah they ain't light, but after a winter on the road still completely true.

729 is more than fucking robust!

@thecycleclinic 729 might be too wide for max. 50mm tyres, though? But like I wrote earlier, this won't be for offroad use. I'm almost decided on DT FR600. I also came across Ryde/Rigida Andra 40, but the availability looks a bit spotty.

729s are overkilll for DH race bikes.

729 might be too wide for max. 50mm tyres, though?

29mm internal with 50mm tyres is just 25mm tyres on 15mm internal rims scaled up, and if anything the modern received wisdom is that a rim internal width of 60% of the tyre width is a bit on the skinny side. I've got 700×35 Marathon Racers on 38mm external (so about 30mm internal) rims and they're fine.

I did sort of think about that. Thanks, I went with the 729.

After much derp the plan is:
1 - Halo Aerorage rim (most economical for 455 grams weight)
2 - Hubs: BWD 2014 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/231588252859?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&var=530824114277&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
(as recommended on this thread)
3 - DT Swiss Revolution spokes (double butted) front and back
Weight saved for halo aerorage wheels buy...not clear could be 65 grams...or much more.

For winter street riding on reasonable crappy roads...32 at rear, 24 at front, 3 cross rear, 2 cross front. I'm under 90KG with backpack all the shizzle.

Let me know what you think or forever hold your peace...nothing bought so can still go 36/28 or another hole pattern, or use different spokes if you think those are a little too light :)

use different spokes

↑This. Revs are completely pointless, 24 Comps (14g version) make a stiffer wheel than 32 Revs, and it will even be a few grams lighter.

Tx! Rest OK? I know you recommended hubs so down to rims rly & spoke count

I know you recommended hubs

Citation needed.

Really, for winter road use, there's not much point straying from 32F/32R 3X all round. I'd get DT Alpine III for extra insurance as I'm a lard arse but Comps (or similar Sapim or ACI spokes) are fine. I'd avoid skinny rims like Aerorage, get something 23mm wide, the extra rim weight is easily outweighed by the other advantages.

So yeah, apart from your choice of hubs, rims, spokes, spoke count and lacing, it all looks good :-)

"Lard arse". Pics or it isn't so? ;)

I recall you recommended those hubs but I'm not 20 anymore so my memory etc... ;)

There's also the DT Swiss R460 at 460 grams, better? :)

Happy to change spokes/lacing there's a reason I ask.

But did the great Sheldon not say front wheels can be built with less spokes?

Perhaps it's false economy though to use fewer spokes and less weight is not worth extra truing or rim writeoff risk.

I've always had 36 spoke wheels so can't speak from experience.

But did the great Sheldon not say front wheels can be built with less spokes?

Possibly, he was American after all and they have a tenuous grasp on the English language. It's true that for normal road use, you can use fewer spokes in the front wheel than the rear if the aim is approximately equal spoke stress front to rear, as the front is more lightly loaded. In the olden days, 32F/40R was standard.

Ow the English mistake is all mine... :):)

It was umopisd3n and branwen who recommended hubs. I'm off to "tester Approved" ;)

For winter street riding on reasonable crappy roads

For this service, I'd be choosing a rim which is cheap, Mavic A119, for example. Winter riding wrecks rims, if you you don't smack a pothole you soon enough wear through the brake tracks.

By now I'm wondering if sane to build myself or just go for planet x al30 d set for £100...if you wreck one just get another one :):)

It's for a fixed so not much braking but yes wet and grime eat brake tracks quickly. Good point.

The whole plan was to save weight over a shop value build.

Though aerorage is £25 DT Swiss £28 so ... It's not that much of an outlay if one goes "KLUNK"

What hub do you have is a low flange rim brake MTB hub if so they areall of similar dimensions in which case any old shimano hub like a lx m565 or xt 737 or the modern t780 hubs will fit.

Building with 32 rev spokes rear can give longer spoke life than 24 comps with the same rim. The rim stiffness and bracing angle has a bigger impact on wheel stiffness than spoke gauge or spoke count.

For radial stiffness maths proves that the spokes have almost no influence, it is all dictated by the rim. For lateral stiffness rim stiffness and bracing angles are key, spokes third. You can see this if you build with say a miche hub and an archetype rim in 24h 28h 32h and 36h with laser or race spokes. As the spoke count increases with either spoke the lateral wheel stiffnes does not increase by as much as you might think. With a narrow shallow rim like the open pro which not stiff at all spokes are more important.

So if you want to drop spoke count make sure the rim is of the wide medium depth variety. The halo rim you have picked is narrow I think so I would go down to 24 on the rear unless it is 30mm deep.

My suggestion for a rim is the kinlin xc279 24f28r with laser front and ends rear, race D's rear. This will be a stiff responsive wheel on a wide rim that will last you if you build it right.lace them to a set oif novatec a171f172 hubs or miche. It may cost more than you planned but it will do the job very well.

The bearings in those planet x al30 wheels won't last 500 miles in winter conditions. Same goes for the hubs in all cheap wheels they wear out quickly. Buy cheap buy several times.

It's an old Cannondale Coda Omega hub, circa 2003, flanges looks high to me, both sides, and its 24 spoke. Hens teeth, really.

Internet murmur tells me it's probably a Formula re-badge job. Not sure if that helps.