Any question answered...

Is there any reason I can't use a road/mtb rear disc hub to use a bolt on fixed cog, and then in future use the other side to fit gears? I've got a 650c frame, and wheels are considerably harder to come by than 700s.

chainline.

Does anyone know what type of sealed bearing the Miche track hubs used in V-Sprint wheels have? Pumped my front tyre up this morning and realised there's some play in the front wheel. I'm assuming the bearings are shot. I've found a few guides on how to replace sealed bearings online, but no mention of specifically what bearing I'll need.

Cheers!

It should be marked on the bearing when you remove it. I'm sure @mdcc_tester would approve of the SKF bearing in the right size

Any suggestions for the best value for money security skewers?
They're just to replace the QRs on a cheapish hybrid so not looking for anything too pricey as the wheels aren't anything special.

Yeah was hoping to carry on riding it until the right bearings can be ordered and arrive. Guess I'll just have to pop them open and take a look. Will bear in mind the SKF suggestion!

but thats fixable with a diff bb. if it is a jis crank, the shimano jobbies are cheap and available from everywhere!

Round the QR lever

Depends whether they expect to be able to flip the wheel round without changing anything else.

What makes you think there isn't?

My rear Sram Rival shifter appears to have failed. It works fine in the first of the 'duotap' positions enabling me to shift to ever smaller sprockets, however when I push the shifter further towards the second 'duotap' position in an attempt to change to a larger sprocket the shifter makes a crunching cracking noise as some internal mechanism clearly looses engagement and the chain again shifts towards the smaller sprocket.

Is this a common fault, and is it easily fixed or do I need a new shifter. New they seem to retail at around £80 which seems awfully steep to me?

I was hoping to do that, but like you say, chain line. Velo Solos website suggests that they'd be very helpful, so I might shoot off an email to them. I haven't go any components for it yet, so its all still negotiable. Thanks for the help.
@Rodolfo, what crank/bb size/standard do think would do the trick, surely chain line becomes less important when you fit a derailleur etc.?

What's the difference between these two stems?

http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/mobile/humpert-x-act-kobra-vario-tube-adjustable-quill-stem-1-inch-254mm-bar-clamp-230mm-prod33279/?src=froogle

http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/mobile/humpert-kobra-vario-tube-adjustable-quill-stem-1-inch-254mm-bar-clamp-300mm-prod33280/?src=froogle

I'm after a 1" quill stem with a clamp for standard mtb bars (25.4mm right?)

@TurtleRecall
I think Miche hubs use 6000-2RS bearings, but it will be written on the rubber seal.

SKF is only £13.78 for a set of four, so there's not much point using cheap generics. For indoor/fair weather use, SKF E2 are faster

What's the difference between these two stems?

One has a 300mm quill, the other is 230mm

...

Is it easy enough to replace internal bearings in a Campagnolo freehub body or am I just better off buying a new one?

Did anyone ever see or use Duotrap system ?

Whens the next time I can go and ride a track bike round HH velodrome?

I've no accreditation and it's been literally years since I rode a track bike round there, so a turn up and bugger about session would be ideal.

Check out brammer as I got a set of 4 for £7...well 12 for 21...

Other bearing factors are available :-)

shimano

Where is the best place to post this...?

"Looking for a mechanic to cover a holiday at a shop in Battersea..."

https://www.lfgss.com/conversations/254833/?offset=275#comment12364135

https://www.lfgss.com/microcosms/554/