Any question answered...

Cheers, have read the last 40-ish pages of the wheel building thread. Weird dichotomy where it seems to take people just an hour to build a wheel, but within that hour there are about 50 different factors that can fuck up the result.

Lighter models? Does that include the SL (superlight) version of the ubiquitous F482SB? Only asking as they don't seem to make the standard flavour anymore.

OSM or torrent Citi Navigator maps?

I need a new axle, cones etc for a Shimano XT FH-M756 rear hub.

I've found a copy of the EV doc dated Jan 2011 which lists:

Y3BW98020 Complete Hub Axle 146 mm

I can't find this in stock. The EV doesn't have any compatibilities listed.

Anyone know of alternative parts that'll work?

Anyone know of alternative parts that'll work?

It usually works out cheaper just to buy a whole new hub and gut it for parts. You can change the freehub rotor while you're at it and make your old hub as good as new.

Fair enough, I'll see what I can find. £32 for that hub is a bit more than the £20 list price of the axle assembly.

If I looked for similar newer hubs, 10mm axle, 9 x 0.25" balls, I think I should be able to make it work, would probably just have to reuse the seal discs off the old axle.

If I looked for similar newer hubs, 10mm axle, 9 x 0.25" balls, I think I should be able to make it work

You probably can, although Shimano have a habit of making the lock nuts/spacers/washers different thicknesses for every damn hub, so you can end up having to dial in the spacing with whatever is in your parts bin to get it to exactly 135mm OLN.

You're effectively getting a fresh freehub rotor for £12, so it seems like a no-brainer to forgo a few beers and have all the bearings in your hub renewed while you've got the axle out anyway.

Found a new M756A axle for £12. Not compatible ffs.

Ah, looks like all the stock of hubs is probably the A model too, that's going to be a PITA as some shops don't use the suffix and it's quite likely that even the ones picturing the first generation hubs are probably using old pictures.

If I take it apart and inspect the axle again, I might be able to find just the cone-and-locknut assemblies.

Cyclebasket has the right hand assembly, and a Wheels Mfg equivalent for the left-side cone. Total £14ish inc P&P.

A German person reckons you can successfully assemble the 756A guts into the 756 shell, might only work if you also swap the freehub rotor:
http://www.mtb-news.de/forum/t/shimano-xt-fh-m756-jetzt-ungedichtet-hinten.590814/

Quite a drastic fix for worn bearings, but bookmarked for future reference...

According to Wheels Mfg, the M570, M760, M765, m750, m752,m755 and m756 all use the same left and right cones, no info about the spacers and locknuts though, but gives me two parts to search for (and for someone else to find here via google).

Wheels Mfg CN-R097 and R098

Building my Vig back up for RHC and this is my bars after my little spill last month. Ride or replace? No particularly deep gouges, and I've sanded it off a bit with some wet and dry.

Look fine.

Is it common for new frames to require some persuasion when getting the front axle in? Perhaps due to the fresh paint?

I have a front Surly "Ultra New Hub" with a 9mm axle and it simply won't fit inside the front fork dropouts of a Nature Boy Disc fork. I've yet to try it with enough force to get it in.

The rear hub fits effortlessly into the track ends.

This is just a bare hub and an unfitted fork, perhaps with the leverage of a fully built wheel on a fully assembled bicycle it'll be a bit easier.

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Is it common for new frames to require some persuasion when getting the front axle in? Perhaps due to the paint?

Not sure about common, but it's certainly not unheard of.

What frame is it? is it powdercoated?

What frame is it? is it powdercoated?

It's an All-City Nature Boy Disc, paint is factory fresh.

it's certainly not unheard of

In the past I've had similar issues with (used) frames after a heavy powercoat, but this one really doesn't want to budge - to the point that I'm doubting the widths of axle and dropout.

All-City actually use those very same hubs on their OTP builds so there's no reason it shouldn't fit.

Guess I just need to HTFU and give it some force.

Fork ends haven't been bent closed slightly?

Guess I just need to HTFU and give it some force.

Would be better to get a file out and work on it until the axles slides in without complaint.

All-City Nature Boy Disc

Actually, best to just throw the fork away and start again, the fork ends are fitted the wrong way around, the alignment is about the worst it could possibly be if you want to avoid wheel ejection under braking.

Huh, so it is.

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I've ridden bars like that (albeit steel) for a while too, all good.

dust caps for DA7500 track hubs, original or universal type, are these still available and if yes, where to buy?

http://velobase.com/ViewGroup.aspx?GroupID=a9ac3581-278a-4c61-af4e-902c2e7b4004