Power Meters / Powermeters (SRM, Powertap, Quarq, Ergomo, Vector, Stages, power2max, P2M, 4iii, InPower, Cinch)

That's one marketing opportunity I'm not going to miss out on

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No. Not even close.

Cooking matches? You crazy? Unaeroz.

Cooking matches? You crazy? Unaeroz.

He sells them the cooking matches first, then sells book matches as an upgrade. #marketing

The major problem with stages is that the plastic used is crappy and it lets water and other stuff leak into the battery. It's supposed that new models won't have this problem.

It sounds like it's had some major issues then.

There are no numbers on bars, but equally nobody sells photos of the TTs I do.

For you I guess snappers pack a wide-angle? Or just Google Earth screen-grab? :P

My Stages has been spot on. If you're after a cheap PM that you can switch between bikes that have different gearing on then IMO it's a no brainer.

I really don't get this Stages bashing. Yes, it only measures one leg, but if your left/right balance is consistent then the power output displayed by the PM will be consistent also. Maybe it's also a bit like cars? "My cars better than yours because it's more expensive" etc, etc. Have also read a fair few people with PM problems on this thread over the months/years, so nothing is faultless.

And yes, I have bought a photo from a TT. Because it was a bloody good photo.

#csb etc

My 2p.

Stages is fine. I'm happy with mine and the battery life thing is not something I have experienced in over a year of use. Previously had a powertap g3, which was fine but my experience with them is that they are quite fragile and tempremental.. They are also horrible hubs for spoke tension etc.

Pretty much every pm has a known issue (from tech stuff to cost) - just depends how much money you have I guess. I would love a track SRM or a p2m but I simply don't have the money.

Prices take the piss a bit imo.

Strain gauge with a radio. Less than £20 down Maplin/RS.

Really?

X years of R&D, plus you expect them to give you a free crank arm?

Prices take the piss a bit imo.

Prices seem about right compared with similar goods, i.e. down by a factor of about 10 in real terms since the first consumer version. You might as well say that $300 for a frame is taking the piss because it only contains $20 worth of CrMo steel.

You're not the first to notice that the incremental cost of making each extra PM once you have finished development and tooling up is <$100, but if you actually think you can get a reliable, accurate, precise PM to consumers for under $400 within the next year, stop posting here and get on with it because you'll make a killing.

I have a stages, also two p2m s-types and have used powertaps for years before I switched to crank based. My experience with my p2ms has always been faultless, my first two originals and now two s's the only downside is the old ones are ugly as f.

The only reason I bought a stages was because I got a mega deal on it and already having the other two, the concern about reliability wasn't too bad as I had a fall back option. Having known the issues all my friends had had with the first few generations of Stages it was a punt to see whether they'd managed to fix all their problems. I can say it lasted my through the Roubaix challenge in the rain with no issues, and I've been using it since in all weather and haven't had any issues and haven't had to change a battery yet.

I'd say, if you're getting a brand new one, with a new cover and you update to the latest firmware you'll be fine, but I'd steer clear of any old stock as they are awful. The readings seem consistent enough with the p2m to use for training. I haven't raced on it so I can't comment on that, although it is noticeably slower to respond in displaying an effort compared to the p2m.
I wouldn't have any trouble recommending one to a friend now based on my experience of my own.

"He was half the man that hippy was.."

TEH POWARZ!

<Trackpoint><Time>2015-06-07T11:47:27Z</Time><Position><LatitudeDegrees>50.862862</LatitudeDegrees><LongitudeDegrees>-0.130189</LongitudeDegrees></Position><AltitudeMeters>76.530</AltitudeMeters><DistanceMeters>29415.479</DistanceMeters><HeartRateBpm><Value>115</Value></HeartRateBpm><Cadence>0</Cadence><SensorState>Present</SensorState><Extensions><TPX xmlns="http://www.garmin.com/xmlschemas/ActivityExtension/v2"><Watts>62742</Watts></TPX></Extensions></Trackpoint>

(PowerTap SL+ and Edge 705. One duff point out of 36769 on that ride.)

when I moved my bike earlier my p2m flashed a red light on for about 20secs then went. I then turned my garmin on and it didnt connect & p2m didnt flash green.

Dead battery? Think I got about 70 hours out of it.

Where can I get a new CR2450 battery by thursday?? fuck.

Where can I get a new CR2450 battery by thursday?? fuck.

Maplin: http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/lithium-coin-cell-cr2450-3v-battery-1-pack-l66aj

That also lists the other names for them.

Might be worth a punt on some eBay ones too depending on how quick they're dispatched.

Sucks.

But a few. I bought 4 before. They're cheap and I'd rather have some kicking about.

any other time and I wouldn't have minded so much. Off out to Sweden on thurs.

Found these with next day delivery, should be okay. Bought 5 to make the £6 postage worth it.

http://www.batterystation.co.uk/Duracell-DL-2450-CR2450-Lithium-Coin-Cell-Battery-1-pack?gclid=Cj0KEQjw-tSrBRCk8bzDiO__gbwBEiQAk-D31UWOsQwY8e3XvczLB-HDN_xP4NlR6PKa9mIWHkeBKRMaAnqF8P8HAQ

I have hit the wall of 3.5w/kg for 1 hour FTP.

Can someone share some real world experiences on how to increase FTP? I've read what google has to offer briefly. Stuff like this: http://home.trainingpeaks.com/blog/article/three-ways-to-improve-functional-threshold-power

As to 'why am I fixated on FTP?' .. I don't know; I just want to know what needs to be done to decide wether I should focus on it or not.

And a noob question; when doing the test should I use NP or Average power to calculate?

Do the test under conditions where NP = AP, i.e steady sustained output without any breaks. Nice flat circular course with no junctions, turns or RABs.

I'm also at 3.5w/kg at the moment (on the TT bike, so probably (/hopefully) higher on the road bike)).

I did a CP20 test on the turbo recently on the TT bike and got the same (to the watt) number as I got on my road bike a couple of months ago /csb

Still yet to hit that value for CP20 on the road though... :(

Thanks for clarifying that NP/AP confusion .. thats what I thought it would be. Whats the point of NP then? Just a 'feel good' metric like calories burnt?

I've only ever tested on Madone. You'll be faster (even on road bike) because aero.

I am lost for purpose when it comes to power; I've achieved what I wanted to this year i.e. the w/kg ratio and be less shit on hills. The question is whats next in context of power.

What do you want to do better at?

Presuming you want to be better at racing - but what type? Crits/Road Racing/TT/track?
All have pretty different power requirements.

Increasing your FTP will be great for doing 25m TT's but might not help a huge amount when Crit racing, where focusing on increasing your power for shorter efforts would likely lead to better results, for example.