Wheelbuilding / Wheel Building / Wheel build help

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  • Of course, if you're not committed then there are probably 20 rims which are better than Open Pro for a general tooling around wheel.

  • Hmm, cool thanks tester. Hubs are at the post office now so can't change hole count. Building a very old school wheels.

  • No reason why not. One of the wheelsets I've got for my Hetchins (both 32h Campag Record hubs F&R with 28" Sun MA18II rims) uses Race at the rear and Lasers on the front. Never had a problem with them, and that's despite using them on the Strada Bianca.

  • Have all the bits coming now to build a couple of road wheelset for the felt.

    Mountain Wheels:
    F) Kinlin TB 20 - 20 x radial - Tune mig 70 With ceramic bearings.
    R) Kinlin TB 20 - 24 x triplet - Tune mag 180 With ceramic bearings.
    1300g

    Flatland Wheels:
    F) WUT60 (60mm, 25mm wide, carbon tubular) - 18 x radial - BHS UL66.
    R) WUT88 (88mm, 25mm wide, carbon tubular) - 24 x radial - BHS UL190.
    1500g

    CN aero424 spokes used throughout. They area good chioce for the aero wheelset, and light enough for the shallow one.

    Basically the Felt is my Nice bike. So dont really want 'training' Wheels as such. But I do hit the Mountains in poor weather (or rather I head out in Nice weather, and the poor weather hits me). So I wanted some shallower Wheels With alu braking. That were still Nice enough for me to want to ride on the Nice bike. They are under spoked buy 4 spokes per Wheel IMHO. But I had the hubs already.

    The deep section Wheels are for flattish rides and tri's. Obviously they'd make great race Wheels. But I'll probably not use them if I think its going to be windy. I'd quite happily them in high Winds. But perhaps not so much in a tight Group. They're more for tri, solo, and TT use really.

  • The WU(X)60 profile is perfoming like I have never experienced or dreamed of in the wind.

  • I'm currently racing on 56mm rims with a slight less toroidal shape. Its fine TBH. But with the aero frameset you do get a bit of sideways force in the wind. We'll see.

  • I have them on an aero frame as well and they behave predictable (no scares).

  • Cheers. Thats good to know.

    I figured the 60 would handle at least as well as my 56s. Not sure about the effect of a 88mm rear.

    I havent really thought about it untill a articulated lorry did a mm Close overtake on me, a couple of weeks ago. Had to fight not to get sucked under the rear section of the lorry. Scared the shit out of me if I'm honest. Luckily I was heading up the mountain not Down it. I probably just need to put that behind me.

    No reason to be riding deep carbon in the Mountains though. I'll be quicker and safer of the alu tubbies.

  • By the way running the WUC6 front with 27(!) wide front tyre [swollen Open Corsa CX 25] - I wish you the best on your #tublife

  • For road use I'd probably stick With 23mm up front. Not sure how using aero Extensions will affect that chioce though.

    I'm meant to be able to fit 27mm on the back (must be Close though). Thats a bit more tempting.

  • Sounds sensible - guess you are 20kg lighter than me.

  • About to build some low spoke count wheels for the first time - 20h/24h F/R. They're fixed so no dish to worry about.

    I've built plenty of wheels before and put several thousand miles on them without any probs..... but I've literally only ever built 32h 3x.

    Planning on 2x rear, radial front for these. Any particular pitfalls to look out for building low count for the first time?

  • Just be prepared for your adjustments with the spoke key to make more difference to trueness for a given amount of twist, takes a little getting used to and needs more finesse but with patience you'll be fine.

  • ^ this. Took a little longer but no major difference.

  • 88mm will be fine on the rear in pretty much any wind.

    I happily run a disc on the back of my TT bike even if its blowing a gale. Its the front (due to weight distribution and more importantly steering axis) that causes handling problems.

  • Built up the front today - to say I've never done it before I'm pretty chuffed.

  • Pictures of the dirt cheap toroidal 50mm's from my build


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  • Laser will be fine on the front for a 50g weight saving though that why you may not bother.

  • Laser will be fine on the front for a 50g weight saving though that why you may not bother.

  • All finished, taken to LBS for a once over

  • I've been looking and can't find a definite answer , what's the lightest box section rim avalible (not carbon) ? Clincher is the only requirement I have

  • Dt swiss rr415 got a few of those left. There are lighter rims like the kknlin xr 200, stans alpha 340 and ryde pulse sprint but these are not box section. The dt rim is and is 420g And alot stiffer than an open pro. I have mine built up with lader spokes in 28h drilling and they are fine for my 82 kg. Dont use them much now as i have worn out the front and i have other wheels that have stepped in.

  • Yeah. Not much in a geniune box section.

    Curve section?
    http://www.amclassic.com/en/products/rims/acrd-2218-tubeless-road-rims

  • I had the lightest box section rims in the past, unfortunately they made it thin enough to the point it start cracking on the spoke bed (385g).

    If you want lighter, you best be going disc.

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Wheelbuilding / Wheel Building / Wheel build help

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