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• #28
Track bike head angle. Reckon a -6 degree stem would look better aesthetically tho...
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• #29
I can see where you're coming from - ive got the original stem off my Emonda il play around with once I've cut the steerer a little and got it more built up!
Always rode -17 0n all my road and track bikes, and had this spare so it'll do for the moment!
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• #30
Would LOVE an SWORKS stem though - definitely something on the list
shout if anyone has one for sale please!
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• #31
Here's my E5 in its current form. Original forks and seat post. Record 10 crankset running Campag 11 speed. Love it.
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• #32
That's real nice - I'm almost there with mine, although (not on this picture) I reminded myself how rubbish I am at bar-taping.
I'd have thought after the number of sets of bars I've taped I'd be alright...
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• #33
That's real nice - I'm almost there with mine, although (not on this picture) I reminded myself how rubbish I am at bar-taping.
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• #34
nice pedals
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• #36
Coming along nicely.
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• #37
So here's a question for you fellow forum folk - on both the test rides I've done, after a very short distance the headset has worked lose and I've got play in the forks - i can't imagine it to be anything to do with the top cap and bung as tightening the stem essentially isolates them once compressed and when compressed everything is nice and tight.... Has this ever happened to anyone else? Solutions?!
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• #38
love e5s, looking good!
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• #39
I'm having the same trouble, although it's a glued bung which isn't holding in the long-term.
All the same, like you, I'm surprised the stem isn't holding: carbon steerer/assembly paste/torque wrench.
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• #40
Just took it all apart, put it back together again, went out and blasted it for 10 miles bunny hopping over pot holes and generally doing anything I could to see if it would loosen - seems absolutely fine and not budged at all this time touch wood
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• #41
Forgot about the old carbon assembly paste though....
.....do I risk taking it apart again to paste it up!!?!
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• #42
If it's holding firm as is, I'd leave it. Isn't the main purpose of carbon paste to prevent slipping?
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• #43
Yeah but it wasn't as if the stem or the bung was slipping - both were very firmly tightened and seemed secure and the fact that I couldn't even get the bung out of the steerer tube probably indicates that that's not going anywhere... Il leave it as is until I get chance to do a long distance ride on it and if all is fine leave it indefinitely - if it comes loose again and completely strip and cover it in assembly paste! Just never think to use it or enjoy using it as it scratches stem/steerer/seat post etc...
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• #44
shallower stem would look the business. actually it's needed.
i've a FSA SLK 6d in black and grey. yours super cheap if you want. -
• #45
Hummn.... ive got a 100mm x 6deg Bontrager RXL that il give a try to..... i just love -17 Zipp's!
Thank you very much for the offer though!
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• #46
Nah im not changing it! I like it!!
Its too long and it is probably gonna hurt my back but I like it!
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• #47
stress the back? bro, do you even commute?
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• #48
My longest commute for 3 years has been 5miles - watch this space for an imminent stem flip after one 30 mile leg 😆
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• #49
Never used paste on my stem. Never needed too. I use FSA carbon bung with no issues for years.
Long stem is best, 130 for me. -
• #50
I jest mostly. A minor issue with big bar drop on the commute is that it takes a bit of time to loosen down, so for short rides you don't have the time to slip into it. The big issue is the clothing, seams don't agree with forward pelvepic tilt.
Cheers @ptr - I just dropped in some new 36x45's and used salvaged FSA Orbit parts and everything, rather unexpectedly, fits perfectly!