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Any paint left on the drop out? Blast it off, then rough the surface up. Checked the clamping surfaces on the axle? Sounds like you have far too little purchase going on.
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I'd be weary of filing of that much (as your picture), but why not drill screw sized holes, just a mm or two, enough to stop the tug bolts from splaying?
Also didn't someone make a tug for forward facing drop outs for exactly that reason? Have a search on here and start about four years ago...
Found this:
https://www.lfgss.com/conversations/133546/#comment9328078
And this
http://www.lfgss.com/conversations/129551/?offset=25
But there's more... -
They're cheap stamped dropouts, like the ones in the picture.
There's your trouble. The surface on the rolled plate from which they are cut is too hard, and always causes the problem you're having. Best to get a new frame with decent cast or forged track ends, it's the easiest solution in the long run.
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Howard
Khornight2
gbj_tester
@ffm
My rear wheel keeps creeping forward on my conversion despite some serious effort in tightening the track nuts and the use of a twin-screw chaintug like in the picture. Part of the problem is that the screws on the chaintug sit either side of the rounded end of the dropout so they get bent and splayed out as the wheel creeps forward (#imthatpowerful).
Questions:
Does anyone know of a different chaintug that would work?
Would it be safe to file the back of the dropout flat to give the screws more purchase like in the picture? They're cheap stamped dropouts, like the ones in the picture.
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