Any question answered...

Could I stick a washer / spacer on the hub body before putting the cassette on? That would push it over enough...

Could I stick a washer / spacer on the hub body before putting the cassette on? That would push it over enough...

Not a good plan because a: the lock ring threads will have less engagement, and they are hardly over engaged to start with and b: the chain will probably hit the dropout when you engage top gear.

It's very unlikely that i'll ever "engage top gear" but the lock ring could be a problem.

So... will a new hanger solve the problem?

I need to replace chainrings on DA7950 cranks

If you are (unsurprisingly) horrified by the price of genuine Shimano 7950 rings, there are Stronglight and Praxis options for 7950, although even the Stronglight ones are barely cheaper than a complete FC-6800.

The Praxis rings work out no cheaper than DA. As such the 6800 appears to be cheaper and work out about the same weight as my current crankset.

will a new hanger solve the problem?

Well, a modified hanger might. You could probably mill a bit off the dérailleur mounting face. See if you can obtain spare hangers to fit your frame so that you can experiment and still have something semi-functional to revert to if it all goes horribly wrong.

6800 appears to be cheaper

4650 would be cheaper still, and when the rings wear out you can be pretty sure there will always be plenty of options in 110mm/5-bolt, unlike here today, gone tomorrow, Shimano 'standards' :-)

will a new hanger solve the problem?

inverse shim

So it's indexing correctly from 1-9, but won't go into 10?

(Add 1 for 11 speed).

wont a spacer on the hub body before installing the cassette work? dont know how much "play" you have on the hub body but if the smallest cog still has enough engagement that could work innit?

ahh that was previously discussed. i thought it was actually a spacer before the hub body pushing it out.

anyway, its the easiest solution to try. could work.

What freehub is it? If its an 11speed one have you forgotten the 1.5mm spacer if running 10speed...?

1.85mm

ftfy

Front and rear labelled disc brakes are the same, aren't they, other than hose length? I'll be buying a set for a cargo bike so if I buy a rear with a right hand lever and a rear with a left hand lever everything will work okay?

Front and rear labelled disc brakes are the same, aren't they, other than hose length?

No, the distance of the mounting holes from the axle centre is different between front and rear, for IS mounts at least. Post-mount are the same front to rear.

The calipers are post mount, and I'll use the relevant front/rear specific adapters as the frame is IS.

Will too much preload kill bearings rapidly?

Yeah

Good, that at least means I'm not looking for another explanation.

Next question - changing the bearings in a PF30 BB, just knock them out of the cups and press new ones in?

I stupidly scratched my alloy handlebars with a Stanley knife while removing bar tape. Now I've got the fear that these scratches will propagate into cracks just as I'm descending at 30mph.

Unfounded?

Or do I order new bars?

They're Cinelli Vai Palms.

Unfounded.

*Insert disclaimer here.

You think it's okay?

From fb:bike people, I need your help. Buying mtb for around 400. Are Any of these any good:
Specialized jynx sport 2015 650b
Specialized jynx 650b hardtail
Lapierre raid 329 2014
Giant tempt 27.5 2 2014
Cannondale tango 29 5 2014

Definitely okay. Trust me......