Any question answered...

I used a plastic shim that came with a rear reflector and some tape under/over it.
18 quid! you could just buy the correct front mech for that cost?

I won't buy it from there! Sure I can find it cheaper. I can't find any random bits in the box to bodge with.

ISP question: Are the spacers purely aesthetics to fill up the empty space and therefore doesn't carry any structural functions? (provided that the seat post is over the mark as in the instructions)

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Unless anyone can suggest another option?

The actual Shimano part from the same shop
http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/shimano-ultegra-fd-6600-clamp-band-adapter-for-286mm-5jd-9802-prod25053/

Are the spacers purely aesthetics to fill up the empty space and therefore doesn't carry any structural functions?

They are there to carry your weight, the clamp on its own won't do that. Even a circular seat post clamp tightened to the recommended 4Nm will slip, that aerofoil one will be much worse.

Given that you need the slot (or two halves) to get it round the seat tube and tighten up, 1.1/4"x16swg aluminium tube and a hacksaw would be close enough and give you 50 such shims for half the price.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Aluminium-Round-Tube-Pipe-/281138606896?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&var=580271779796&hash=item41752ab330
Then sell the unwanted 49 shims to cover your costs...

Is there a place where I can order these decals:

I wish to properly polish them but the decal will be destroyed when I do that.

theyre printed arent they?

Yeah they are. Hoped to find original style decals that look the same so I can completely restore my crankset.

Frame is steel and 28.6. My mech is 31.8.

1.6mm is a lot of beercan.

Last time I had a missing spacer, I went to Evans and they gave me the spacers from a mech they'd just fitted to a fat-tubed MTB. For free.

Is this a legitimate way to cold set a frame? My Argos is 110 or 115 I think instead of 120, stretches out but a bit awkward especially now with guards.

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See Sheldon for another option.

I would recommend the Equilibrium if you want to use it as your primary bike, unless you have some serious touring in mind as well.

I think Planet X got some cheap 650b wheelset for starter.

Full hydro would be TRP Hylex, but they're not STI, Spyres are a decent choice, HY/RD better.

I thought this would be more controlled than the plank of wood option...

The frame will flex as you put weight on it and spring back a little each time. With the plank method you don't have to undo everything to check measurements and you can do each side separately.

It's amazing how far you need to stretch it out to cold set it properly rather than it just springing back to 120mm. Usually something around 160mm - 170mm or so to get it to rest back at 130mm.

I need to replace chainrings on DA7950 cranks. Would I be better off just buying Ultegra 6800 cranks instead? Am assuming the 11 speed cranks will work fine with a 10 speed drivetrain.

I can't get my Di2 to index correctly; it won't stay in the biggest rear cog.

It appears that, even with the upper limit screw backed off all the way, the derailleur is still about 2mm inside of the biggest cog and so it skips down to the next cog with medium pressure.

It worked perfectly on my previous frame... what am i doing wrong?

Odd, have you put it in adjustment mode and moved the mech toward the centreline of the bike?

Thanks a lot tester <3 - now installed.

If the RD is at it's mechanical limit of travel yet still 2mm too outboard then:
a) measure distance on previous set-up
b) the mounting point must be examined for - thicker hanger/bracket/drop-out; misaligned hanger/bracket/drop-out
c) wheel axle to drop-out interface

I'd put (some) money on hanger thickness.

Yup.

Did the adjustment to line up perfectly on the 5th / 6th cogs. Go out of align mode and run it back up to the biggest cog, out by 2mm (with limit screw completely backed off). It's frustrating as hell.

a) unfortunately i don't have the previous set-up for comparison
b) It could be a thick hanger... it's a Chinese eBay frame.
c) wheel axel is sat nicely and the wheel is perfectly centered

Best i could do for a photo: