Wheelbuilding / Wheel Building / Wheel build help

Usual case of there are only a handful of suppliers who make such items?
Put them on the order For later, wheel building next week.
I'll measure some spoke bends again, but I'm pretty sure there is space for them.

Usual case of there are only a handful of suppliers who make such items?

Usual case of a small start-up trying to launch a brand without the capital needed for actual manufacturing.

Thanks for the list!

wheelbuilders! spoke masters! keepers of the trueth!
i have a lovely wheel with a cracked hub.

is there any reason why i can't rebuild it with a new hub that has the same diameter?

will the lack of exposed nipples or bladed spokes be an issue (see the extra cutout on the spoke hole on the inside of the flange)?

It would be easier to use new spokes, you avoid having to keyhole the hub's spoke holes and you can choose your spoke length to suit your new hub, rather than the other way around. The concealed nipples aren't a big problem, just adjust the ERD in your calculation to suit.

thanks.
would bladed spokes be ruled out without keyhole-ing?

Depends how wide your blade is. CX rays go into regular spoke holes. The spokes you have seem wider though so likely need keyholes

would bladed spokes be ruled out without keyhole-ing?

You need something where the major axis of the blade is less than or equal to the diameter of the spoke hole. With most hubs being drilled 2.5mm, you you can use any of the common 2.3mm blades, like Sapim CX-Ray, DT AeroLite/AeroComp/AeroSpeed. What you can't fit through a round 2.5mm hole is something with a 3mm+ major axis, such as DT New Aero or Sapim CX.

Royce will keyhole their hubs, but for some reason don't do 18H

I need some advice.. Have a twenty hole vento rim, is it unfeasable/ill advised to source a 20h rear hub and lace it to it?

20h rear hubs of the vintage variety seem rather thin on the ground.

Any help or tips will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

The 3 speed Nexus hub that I built into an A119 rim is eating spokes. 2 during last week and one today while trying it up.

Spokes are nothing fancy (but were new for this build I'm sure) and are 2x as I wanted to use up what I had but I don't think the crossings will have much to do with it.

I've noticed the hub flanges are pretty thin - they are pressed steel - which means the dpoke sits a bit funnily in them. I'm guessing I should maybe have used some type of washer? The hub came to me in a wheel on s ditch style bike and there were no washers in that wheelbuild though.

I'm guessing that now I've got the hub in my pomp it's getting ridden more aggressively than it ever would have in the Dutch bike and perhaps this is highlighting the need for washers at the hub flange?

Anyone know any stockists Anovatechnology hubs for road wheels?

Stupid predictive .... novatec

Bdop seems to be a forum favourite
http://www.bdopcycling.com/Hubs-Road.asp

If your hub flange is less than 3.2mm thick i thick spoke washers are a good idea. Did that with some old campagnolo record hubs that look like they have been rebuilt a few times before it would be a shame for them to crack they are so smooth. To the guy with a cracked hub flange an 18h silver hub is not an eash find. Royce is the only one i can think of. Ther mid flange hub might have the right pcd.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/mr-ride-18H-78g-Front-Hub-Road-Bike-Black-W01F-Enduro-Sealed-Bearing-/131275406450?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item1e909fbc72

Looking for an alternative to Hope hubs which are more reasonably priced, people seem less keen on Shimano ultegra for unknown reason. Ambrosio Zenith sound well thought of (though no clue what difference difference is with Zenith Endurance). Lots of bad comments about Novatec bearings, particularly note, Wheelsmith withdrew selling after comments about failing after winter riding.

an 18h silver hub is not an eash find. Royce is the only one i can think of

Where are you getting 18H Royce hubs? Their website says

The Mid Flange shell diameter is 52mm and is drilled in 12.16, 20, 24, 28, 32 hole.

and somebody on the TTForum was told that they couldn't do 18H when he asked re: a potential replacement for a broken Zipp

people seem less keen on Shimano ultegra for unknown reason

There's more than enough love for Shimano hubs on this forum

Lots of bad comments about Novatec bearings

Novatec are not the worst offender, but when you can make sales by advertising low weight, why wouldn't you let the idiots with more money than sense have undersized bearings? Stick to the basic rather than the ultralight models and they're fine.

Shimano have big balls - 9×¼" per side in the rear hub. To get that in a conventional cartridge bearing, you'd have to go all the way up to a 6004 (8×¼") which is 20mm bore and 42mm OD

Thanks dude, beginning to get the wheel building religion, nearly built 20 wheels and getting my sense of feel but the specs folk talk about sounds like double Dutch. Also so many un PCI jokes in wheel building, 'bigger balls', I've put a 'nipple shuffler' on my birthday list!

Saucy

So, does anyone know what the diff between Zenith & Zenith Endurance is?

how can I calculate spoke lengths if I wanna build front wheel with mavic cosmic 16h rim and shimano wh-6500 hub like this:

I have some spare bladed spokes and possible access to park thread cutter, so may cut'n'thread spokes to length needed, to put nipples on both ends of a spoke, or is it just a matter of trial and error ?

I think I've seen a 3D modelling tool suggested before.
I'd use dry spaghetti.

what you'll need :

tape measure, vernier gauge, piece of paper, pencil, and a spoke calc model

what measurements will you need ?

http://www.sapim.be/spoke-calculator this website shows all the measurements you'll need

or you could search on line for erd of rim and hub measurements, someone will have measured the hub before and detailed it somewhere

If your hub flange is less than 3.2mm thick i thick spoke washers are a good idea.

Cheers.

Probably is narrower than that.

Had another go on the way home so swapped back to a singlespeed wheel for just now anyway.

Spoke washers are needed when the hole is too big for the spoke. If your holes are drilled at 2.5-2.6 mm and you use a spoke with a 2 mm J bend, then a washer helps reducing movement during the load and unload cycles and fatigue. It protects both the spoke and the flange.

Old Campagnolo hubs have very tiny holes, same as most Shimano hubs modern and vintage, so washers are not needed. The thickness of the flange is irrelevant