Which Groupset?

Is this the place to ask about SS cranks too? Just looking to replace a creaky and flexy stronglight crankset/sq taper BB combo on my scuzzy commuter so it doesn't have to be amazing; just stiff enough for silly commuting races and to not creak.
So this from P-X looks good... https://www.planetx.co.uk/i/q/CSOOTC/on-one-external-bearing-track-crankset . Anyone know anything about it? Or can recommend similar for similar value?
Ta much.

Not trolling, actually thinking about doing that on the road and touring bike.

Touring bike = 40t chainring
Road bike = 44t chainring

Touring = 96-29GI
Road = 107-33GI

(mate with 11-36 cassette; 11-13-15-17-19-21-23-25-28-32-36).

What is wrong with two chainrings?

What is wrong with three chainrings?

On a CX or MTB it's nice to keep the seat tube free of a mech.

On a town bike terrain and speed don't vary and performance doesn't matter.

I'm not sure why you'd compromise a road or touring bike like that. Sounds like an excuse to be a smartarse ;-)

Don't really see it as compromising, unless I really want that 1t jump between each cog like you get on the 11 speed 11-23 cog.

I've been riding predominary on 46t with a 11-28 for ages, it's only when it ramp up over 15% I drop to the 34t chainring, so the majority of time, the 34t see very little action, with the exception of the Pyrenees on a loaded touring bike.

Even with a 34t chainring, it give me the same GI as 40/36.

Learn how to use your gears and step away from the Canyon SLX.

The Cervelo S2's internal cable routing begs to differ

Have I missed something, has SRAM wireless dropped?

Massively interested in this middleburn BB. Im tied to a 24mm axle because of the powermeter. Im currently running a mtb BB thats been 'modified' with a hacksaw.

Regarding sram wireless.
I dont feel the need.

I didnt feel the need for di2 either. But Im just so glade I went for it now. So who knows..

I've got the Praxis converter and it's rock solid. Not a creak to be heard. 8000+km and it's smooth as anything. Still, for fifty quid it ought to be good.

I didnt feel the need for di2 either. But Im just so glade I went for it now. So who knows..

Shimano Di2 Wireless soon.

Happy to be proved wrong re. Wireless groups, if they're just as reliable with no missed shifts or losing sync or anything, all good. The whole point of wireless is you don't need a physical connection, but there's always going to be a bike frame in between the parts.
Certainly in telecoms etc wired is always more reliable than wireless.
But yeah, I'm a Luddite.

More batteries to run out mid ride is one other problem. And the occasional glitchiness one gets with ANT+ things (different protocol I know, but still...) would make me worry. I guess let's see how many pros hurl their bikes in ditches whilst PRing the new wifi stuff.

I might start a range of tin foil lined cycling shorts to protect everyone's delicate parts from wireless death rays.

More batteries to run out mid ride is one other problem.

Not quite, the batteries likely to last a lots longer on the shifters (function only to send signal), and two small pack of battery instead of a big one for everything.

It work like a cochlear aid battery where you can have two rear derailleur battery in case one die suddenly.

Dont think i can use that. Theres a raised mid section in my bb shell.

Does anyone run these?
http://www.wiggle.co.uk/wheels-manufacturing-bb30-to-24mm-crank-spindle-shims/

I would UTFS, but I can't figure it out on this site anymore #luddite

Got a pic? There's a cutout in the praxis thing as far as I remember, but it does have a tube that goes through the BB housing.

Its just a <1mm step With the center part having a slightly smaller diameter.

I havent tried. But apparantley it stops the praxis system from working.

My current MTB KCNC BB probably has 30% less threaded section after I 'modified' the day before flying on a bike holiday. But its holding up OK. So whiles its on my list of Things to replace. Its not vital.

they're meant to be good and can't see why they wouldn't be.

Road bike = 44t chainring
Road = 107-33GI
(mate with 11-36 cassette; 11-13-15-17-19-21-23-25-28-32-36).

This is what I'm running on the Talbot CX bike in summer road set-up. Thorn 44t ring, X0 derailleur, one Rival and one S500 leaver. Roubaix didn't kill it, so nothing will.

Yes, I am a smartarse.

I'm running these at the moment on my supersix bb30 to a 6800 crank. No creaks at all. I've also used the FSA EE085 converters too (circa 80g, 40g heavier than wheelsmfg), no difference. The key thing here is to remember that if you ride in the wet, BB30 will likely creak (converters or not), all you have to do is take the crank off (shims pop off), gently lift the bearing seals up and regrease them, as well as give the lightest of coatings near the shell/bearing section just in case.

A lot of people attribute bb30 creaking to converters, when in fact they don't maintain the bearings properly, or install them incorrectly. No loctite needed for installation, just some marine grease, perhaps even doped up with tester approved MoS2.

Who else has R785 shifters with more than 500miles on them?

Have you had the enamel on the lever wear?
This was around 500miles and wear is clear.
https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8600/16415618617_2e75cfdfce_b.jpg