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• #4927
If its not your headset, front brake or tyre causing the movement and fooling the eye then I'd say your fork is damaged. Sounds like a lot of movement!
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• #4928
Can't stop looking at this, its ace. Well done.
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• #4929
Work has begun on the PompPorteur -
Before:
After:
This is raw, sandblasted state ready for Powdercoat, should be coated and lacquered early next week (I'm waiting for the colour to go through)
EDIT: Just scored a Lee Cooper Porteur rack for the front in Black - will get this re-powdered to match the frame next week!
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• #4930
noooo that was my fav pomp :(
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• #4931
it was fun as the SSCX and i used it a frew times during cross races when the geared bike got too muddy and had to be pitted and cleaned, I managed to stay at the front on it as well!
But no more racing, A Mrs and commuting to work has got to take over, hence the popmporteur, Paint on the frame, fork and rack should be finished today.
I'm taking inspiration from Lee Cooper's Porteur that he won Bespoke Bristol best Utility bike with, But with a solid Ivory paint instead of chrome plating, I know Lee quite well so he's giving me a little hand with the final look of the build
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• #4932
Pomp owners, any recommendations for gxp cranks?
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• #4933
I use omniums on mine
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• #4934
Any need to modify the chainstay? I have omniums too, but have just spied that the spider is getting a bit too close for comfort.
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• #4935
Nope, worked fine out of the box.
I made no modifications, I've been using them with the 48T chainring that came with them.
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• #4936
ohai bb shell!
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• #4937
Cheers. That's more clearance than I have... By about a millimetre!
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• #4938
I'm currently rocking about 0.5mm from spider to chainstay on my T3, it's worth worrying about for the first ride, but if the paint is still there after that it's fine.
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• #4939
Yeah I recall this sort of discussion a while back. I've had the omniums in there for some time, but found they've scored a line into the powder coat. On closer inspection it looks like one of the spider arms is chunkier than the others, and it has very little clearance (less than half a mm).
I guess the 'problrm' isn't going to get worse but I'm still tempted to take the finish back to metal in that location just to check the damage is only in the powder. At that point I would probably need a new powder coat, which is fine as I was considering one anyway. Other options include:
-replace omnoms with a sram road crank? (Tempting as I plan to ride sscx on the bike too)
-replace omnoms with a shimano road crank (cheap option but I favour gxp systems)
-keep omnoms and have a framebuilder dimple the chainstay to get clearance
-unconnected to the points above but this could be a good time to ask a framebuilder to cold set the stays to 130 and maybe braze on some cable guides just for a hootAll these need to be played off against the cheapness of the frame. Which in turn needs to be balanced against the fact that they don't make 'em (v3 pomps) anymore. Ah, bikes. I do enjoy a trivial dilemma like this from time to time...
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• #4940
-keep omnoms and have a framebuilder dimple the chainstay to get clearance
Or smack it with a hammer yourself. I did this to the chainstay of my Genesis Flyer when I was running some weird road crank set up that put the chainring too close to the stay.
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• #4941
^^^ Tried this on Carbon- Does not work well
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• #4942
Other options include:
...facing 1mm off the NDS of the BB shell. Strictly speaking, you don't have to do anything else with GXP, although you can put a 1mm spacer under the DS cup to compensate if you want to.
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• #4943
That's interesting.
@c0gsucker did you have your BB shell faced? I'm curious how there's so much difference in our setups. It seems more than would be caused by tolerances in frame construction alone (although I am ready to be proven wrong).
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• #4944
no I just fitted it straight out of the box, both the frame (v3) and the crankset were brand new.
I would take some better pics for you but the cranks are no longer fitted on there, my pomp is in pieces in the garage.
EDIT: actually now that I think about it there may be a chance that it was faced, I dropped it off at my LBS for them to install the headset when I first picked up the frame and I have a very hazy memory of them saying they faced the bb for free.
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• #4945
actually now that I think about it there may be a chance that it was faced, I dropped it off at my LBS for them to install the headset when I first picked up the frame and I have a very hazy memory of them saying they faced the bb for free.
If they did, they would have taken a cut of no more than about 0.005" as a normal clean up cut, even that is pretty heavy. We're talking 0.040" to make any meaningful difference to the clearance.
I'm sure the difference is just down to the fairly loose tolerance on positioning the chainstay on the BB shell at the Pompino works.
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• #4946
It'd be interesting to know the clearance between nds crank arm and chainstay @c0gsucker
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• #4947
The clearance on mine:
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• #4948
But one arm of the spider is like this:
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• #4949
It's hard to tell from the photos but its definitely tighter on one arm. The chainstay now looks like this:
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• #4950
(Sorry for the multiple posts but as I'm uploading from my phone, I can't put more than one image in each post)
Given the clearance to the crank on the nds looks like this, there's not a lot to play with in terms of facing the nds bb shell to mm to move the axle across:
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If anyone needs some of the pompino forks, mine (powder coated matt black) will shortly be for sells as I'm replacing with cross check forks. Sorry for spamming.