Home DIY

how about supports like this

but mounted from above your boards (so you don't see them)

Where are you?

Hither Green. Se13.

Some good ideas there. Cheers.

Practical types - we have a diverter on a rainwater downpipe presumably set up for a very low rainwater butt (~2 foot off the ground). We want to get a much bigger butt (because we like them and I cannot lie). How straight forward is the process of (presumably) taking out the existing diverter and repairing that section of pipe and then fitting the diverter in the higher section where we will now require it? Or am I missing something? Cheers

What is the pipe made from?

If it is plastic then very easy, if it is cast iron then less easy.

Plastic. Assuming it's very easy (i.e. b&q will likely sell some sort of plastic double ended sheath [euph] to replace the removed diverter) but I have no idea what anything might be called that I'm looking for. Or do you just replace the previously-diverted section of pipe and add a new diverter at the level you want it? Is plastic downpiping easily replaced/messed about with?

^ I also want to know the answer to this for water butt-related reasons. So, y'know. Somebody tell us and put us out of our misery.

Put something like this where the existing diverter is:-

http://www.diy.com/departments/floplast-black-pvcu-downpipe-socket-dia50mm/81066_BQ.prd

Install the diverter higher up (by cutting a section out of the existing pipe).

Remember: Measure once, buy twice.

Socket seems to be generic term:

http://www.diy.com/departments/outdoor-garden/roofing-cladding-guttering/DIY581027.cat/category-27004=DIY592741?pageSize=12&categoryToFilter=DIY592741

I would think that 5 minutes staring at the downpipe section of your local B&Q would be quite enough to work out what would be required.

Is the idea that the downpipe runs directly into the butt?

Perfect, thank you! I was putting in many weird search terms (junction/sleeve etc) but this is exactly what I want.

My understanding is that we will need a diverter off the downpipe. Like this:

You will probably, but not definitely, find that the pipes are connected to one another using a "solvent cement" so you may need to be a bit inventive with sleeves etc.

Hmm, that sounds sticky... Might I be better off just replacing the bottom section of downpipe entirely and putting the diverter in that where I need it? Or is that easier said than done and would it also likely require messing about with cements?

owl

Practical types - we have a diverter on a rainwater downpipe presumably set up for a very low rainwater butt (~2 foot off the ground). We want to get a much bigger butt (because we like them and I cannot lie). How straight forward is the process of (presumably) taking out the existing diverter and repairing that section of pipe and then fitting the diverter in the higher section where we will now require it? Or am I missing something? Cheers

I wouldn't even bother repairing it.

1. Purchase new downpipe
   
2. Remove the section of downpipe below the diverter
   
3. Remove the diverter
   
4. Cut the remaining section of downpipe (which was above the diverter) at the new required height.
   
5. Refit diverter at required height
   
6. Cut length of (newly purchased) downpipe to fit below diverter and fit it (adding new downpipe clip(s) if necessary)
   
7. (If there was one originally, refit shoe to bottom of new downpipe section)
   
   

Edit: Erm, yeah, what you just said ^ up there. Down pipes don't necessarily need cementing. Mine are just held up because the shoe sits on the grate of the drain below and by the tension in the downpipe clips. If you do need to hold them together a little stainless screw works well. It also has the advantage that you can then locate any blockage from water coming out of the joint above it. If you cement the joints then they will be completely sealed and any blockages will back up much further.

Incredibly helpful, thank you! Will do exactly this.

No probs. Rep for the Sir Mixalot reference!

I would avoid solvent-welding the sections together - as suggested a small stainless screw would be preferable. It'd be a massive arse ache to have to cut it all apart if you needed to change it, if you bonded it together.

Can you use external wood varnish on indoor things as well?

I bought some Ronseal outdoor varnish to do our back door and french windows, but I also bought a bare pine shelf yesterday which I'd like to add a coat to. Is there anything about the outdoor varnish which means that for some reason it wouldn't be suitable? I read that indoor varnish is more brittle so doesn't stand up well to temperature/moisture changes outside, but would the other way round be a problem?

The attendant biota that will be encouraged by the use of outdoor varnish inside will give you no end of heartache.

It'll be fine, make sure your room is well ventilated.

Is there an off the shelf (no pun intended) cutlery/utensil drawer that can fit inside an existing big plates/pots/pans drawer? (Attaching to the underneath of the worktop inside the drawer, if you see what I mean).

So you would pull open the big drawer then pull open the smaller one?
Not sure if you could avoid interference from the back of the big drawer hitting the back of the smaller and pushing it forward, unless you leave the back of the big one with only a lip on the lower part to prevent pots from falling out.

Not sure where to ask this, but this feels the right place.
I'm sort of after this:
http://www.e-quip4education.co.uk/acatalog/info_TT1060.html?gclid=CjwKEAjwvPepBRCoqo37teOD1XsSJAC7v6WQ8gJ4f8taCNBIxoORXIsZBlLSG6CydbXSZWptchUnphoCfozw_wcB

Or similar. Multicoloured optional. Ikea seems to only have Billy in too long a length.

Is there anywhere that does flat pack design your own shelving type stuff?
90 odd quid seems a bit steep.