Any question answered...

I drilled my starnut out yesterday. Piece of piss. I'm on my phone so CBA to link, but the method is on page two of my Look KG241 thread.

Ah that's perfect apart from not having a drill :(

No prob. The lip matches the stem internal diameter, so the steerer external diameter. As MDCC says you can chuck on an extra spacer. I've done this in the past but preferred to trim the shim so it didn't stick out.

This is more effort than its worth. The shim is the exact length of the stem clamp and above and below are one inch spacers on the steerer itself. I probably won't get around to cutting the steerer so I'll have a spacer above the stem which will be 1 inch so shall I get a 1" top cap?

In that case I would say use a 1,1/8" spacer above the stem, so you can be sure the bearing preload goes through the stem not through the spacer.

But that's two things to buy :(

Also does anyone want to drill my star nut?
#nohomo

But that's two things to buy :(

Not if you buy a top cap with integrate spacer :-)

Check the Van Nicholas fork from Fatbirds, they're straight, carbon, 1 1/8 and smart looking.

Out of stock :-(

12.50?! It's lovely and worth it but I'm skint I'm afraid.

Do you really have to remove the star nut? Couldn't you just wack it further down the steerer and put a new one above it?

Because IT'S SO HEAVY!

Whack it all the way down and out?

Yeah I could, just thought if I'm going to do it, might as well do it properly but I'll probably end up just knocking it down. I've ordered another one. It ruined the thread of my record top cap though :(

It's not going to be light anyway with the cheap wheels I've got

What is the a-c dimension of the Enigma C-Six fork?

New padded shorts time. I would like a pair around £30 - £40, don't need to be too warm or overly padded. Not too keen on bibs but would prefer a higher waist. They will probably be worn under over shorts or jeans. What are my options?

I've bought some of these cheap 'jagwire' cables in the past, perhaps froms a different seller though. Mine were nothing like the jagwire road pro cables from wiggle etc. They appear to be of much lower quality. The outers definitely compress more easily and the inners are a bit sticky. I wouldn't fancy setting up a 10/11 speed group with them but they have been fine on the pub bike with friction shifting.

Cheers - I got the Road Pro set in the end because if it ain't broke...

Bit pricier but probably saves a lot of hassle. I used them in my first ever geared setup and got crisp shifting on Sora 3400 first time so, yeah.

Frame tolerances - what is acceptable?

Took bike in for post crash assessment and using the Park Tool FAG (no homophobe its the frame alignment guage) there is a 3.5mm deviation between head tube, seat tube and drop out between left and right sides.

Have sent Lynskey an email as to what are their manufacturing tolerances.

@coldharbour - what do you work to?

Under a mill, and lynskey will probably work to the same. If it's your fault it should be ok, if it's someone else's fault new frame please! I would not suggest cold setting....

somebody else's fault - fuck, this may take some time to resolve.

Where did you get the frame assessed? Does that cost much to have done? I have a feeling my beater may be broken after a crash and whilst it's only the beater, I'd want it changed on the driver's insurance, not my own pocket

my LBS - Neil's Wheels in Kingston.