IGH, Alfine, Rohloff, Sturmey Archer and frames/bikes built for them...

Fuck me, that's a good deal! And lots of sizes available.
If I had the cash, I'd buy it just for the bits and then swap them over onto Ti frame...

u no like 853?

I like Ti more!

What's the point of Di2 Alfine?

From this Bike Radar review
http://www.bikeradar.com/road/gear/category/bikes/cyclo-cross/product/review-genesis-bikes-day-one-alfine-di2-14-48427/

The functionality of Di2 with the eight-speed hub is hugely impressive: it instantaneously snicks between gears on the flat, and is far superior to a standard cable system, lacking that telltale lag you sometimes find with an internal system. In high torque situations the hub can offer a short grumble when switching, but it doesn’t disengage and pedalling is not affected so it never hinders progress.

Convert it to shimano hydraulics and it would be perfect commuter biek. Though I'd prefer 11spd di2 alfine.

On of the top reasons for Di2 for me would be the shifter choices, next is what people seem to say about the lack of lag.

Interesting, if it feels as sharp and direct as a mechanical dérailleur then I can see the attraction.

Has anyone know what the SRAM i-3 are like, specifically the disc ones?

https://www.sram.com/sram/urban/products/i-3-disc-brake

Bumping this for @hugo7 question as I'd like to know too.

Also anyone used a disc compatible Nexus 3 speed?

I've recently removed the Alfine 8 from my mtb to go back to ss and although all I've done since is some pootling around, not a proper ride on the bike, I can't say I miss that heavy lump of a hub but I have an older Nexus 3 speed on my Pompino now and I'm really enjoying that.

I haven't weighed either hub nor have I picked them up one after the other but the Pomp definitely doesn't feel so rear heavy as my mtb did with the Alfine on it. I'd say the shifting from the Nexus is better than that from the Alfine and the uptake when you start pedalling feels a bit better too.

So, I'm thinking that I could chop my Alfine 8 for a 135mm spaced, disc compatible Nexus but (again!) the disc compatible Nexus runs on some sort of 'Silent Clutch' so I'm thinking it might not feel exactly the same as my older Nexus, maybe even closer to how the Alfine feels - which it should be noted isn't bad, just not as nice as the Nexus in my opinion.

Also, maybe my Alfine needs a service.

I got a Genesis IO alfine and swapped in some rigid forks and more road friendly tyres as a go-anywhere bike.

Bought it new and it was just about acceptably priced with 40% off. I like the idea of the hub gear but there seems to be a slight give when I set off as if it takes a fraction of a second to engage. Not got used to that yet. It also slips occasionally in the highest gear and I've no idea how to fix that (saying that, my front derailleur on my other bike hasn't shifted properly for the past year regardless of the faffing).

Ultimately I like the idea but I'm not yet convinced.

Slight give = normal (I think) so deal with it.

Skipping in top gear = a sure sign something's not right and, from what I understand, riding a slipping Alfine = you'll soon own a fucked Alfine.

You know how to check cable tension? If that's not where the issue is and you bought the bike new, get it back and get it seem to.

I've got a Genesis High Latitude,with Hydro discs and Alfine 11. I bought it specifically as a winter commuter,the long wheelbase makes it extremely stable,and super comfortable and I absolutely love it. It takes some effort to get up to speed,but when you're there its unstoppable. Potholes cease to be an issue as well,which I like when riding in the dark and the wet. Feels so safe. I even learned to like the "clutch"effect when pulling away.I've had it 2 1/2 years and haven't done a pick of maintenance on it,aside from adjusting cable tension.

Just to be sure, you need to reduced pressure on the pedal before you change gear.

If you put effort on the pedal while changing, it may not shift properly, much like a car clutch when you need to push it down to change gear.

Woodrup Cycles in Leeds are hub gear geeks through and through and what they don't know or cannot do isn't worth shit.

I'd love one of they're 953 Rohloff Belt driven beasts on 700c x 40. Oh my....

http://www.lfgss.com/conversations/264656/#comment12167409

Yes, even changing when stationary it slips. Think it started after I took the wheel off to change the tyre.

Done the thing with lining up the yellow dots in whatever gear it's meant to be but that doesn't fix it, anything else you're meant to look at? I'm about to change the sprocket to up the gearing a bit so will have a bit more of a look then. Probably only done about 20 miles since it started slipping so hopefully not fucked.

Edit: Actually, reading this thread it seems that the marks might not be 100% accurate. Will have to experiment a little https://www.lfgss.com/conversations/242352/

I'm assuming the cassette joint on an Alfine is meant to be a cable stop rather than just a guide? Not sure how but the shift cable outer now seems to pass freely through the cassette joint. I guess it just needs a stepped ferrule?

EDIT: Seems we're missing the circled part here, hopefully something can be bodged.

I think you can buy those bits for about a tenner.

I changed the sprocket on mine last night and, after a bit of playing with cable tension, I think I've sorted the slipping gear too. I did though spend a good half hour swearing as I tried to get the circlip that holds the sprocket in place back on.

My current run around is the Roux G8

http://rouxbikes.co.uk/shop/carbon-drive-g8/

Added full guards to it and plan to change the shifter from the twist shift to a button operated. Also will add disk brake to front wheel at some point.

Though I am having some trouble with it, i think the roller clutch in the hub is slipping causing it to spin the cranks half a turn a few seconds after gear change.

Does the fork work? Interesting way of getting 30mm or so travel.

It's not the softest of rides but if you put all your weight forward, yes it does compress. Need a 4MM hex key with 200MM of reach to go through the headset to adjust it...

Most annoying part of its design is the hinge adds a few MM of play between the wheel and handlebars. Makes balancing whilst stopped a bit interesting.

Nice bike!
How is belt drive treating you?

No problems with the belt so far (:

We had one a couple of years back to sell, the fork came off straight away to be eBayed and was replaced with a nice black Surly offering. I think it was bought for like £600. Awful bike really but could have been ok with some more attention....