Wheelbuilding / Wheel Building / Wheel build help

Too late. Mag170 living in the living room. Can't be any worse than the god-awful Zipp 188.

I mean flimsy to work with. As you know if the thread gets slighlty jammed, courtesy of alloy nipples or contaminants, it becomes extremely difficult to turn a nipple without damaging the spoke at the interface between the round and the bladed section. I can only assume the super version to be much worse, in that respect. As I understand, you will save a massive 5-10 grams by going that route... I would expect even the more undeterred weight weenie to think it over...

3) For a bit of advice, this is my rebuild of a 303 on a Dura Ace hub, if that helps
whosatthewheel.com/2014/12/27/zip­p-188-hub-and-a-firecrest-rebuild/

Last sentence:

if you can’t find the odd length, round up, as I did.

This contradicts the usual advice.

I mean flimsy to work with. As you know if the thread gets slighlty jammed, courtesy of alloy nipples or contaminants, it becomes extremely difficult to turn a nipple without damaging the spoke at the interface between the round and the bladed section.

I've always found CX-Rays to be the easiest spokes to build with, and that's always with alloy nipples. I lubricate the spoke threads before use, with Mobil 1 10W40 (I have a lot of it so it's convenient) and I've never had a spoke get jammed. In fact, the only time I've ever had spokes jam when building was when I tried using black brass nipples, which were a total bitch to use. Never again.

This contradicts the usual advice.

I certainly always round down. Slightly too short is mildly annoying, slightly too long is game-over-and-buy-some-new-spokes time.

round up because you have to take into account the washers

Ah, I was planning to measure the ERD with the washers in place.

You're right, I rarely use plain gauge and wonder if my little side business is actually big enough to warrant such purchase. It would be nice to have when I can't source a particular length and just order 2-3mm longer and trim it. But realistically how often does that happen? Once or twice a month perhaps. And I don't keep stocks of spokes due to the investment required especially due to clients specifying which spokes they would like for their build. Do bike shops and independent wheel builders require spokes cut to length? Would they be happy to pay say 15p per spoke to have it cut? It would be nice to get some figures but where would I find that?

I think this decision is going to remain in the pending tray.

I know both Strada and Just Riding Along have one, among others. It cuts waste if you build in volumes, but realistically you need to be north of 1,000 wheels per year to make sense of it. Also, I don't know you, but I find that there are 2-3 popular builds that everybody wants and realistically the number of spoke lengths used on a regular basis is limited. It is different for others, that do lot of wheel sizes (26 inch, 650b, 700c and so on) in which case a wider range is needed, but again, you can only shorten a spoke so much.

I think it will be useful, no doubt, but I doubt it will pay for itself unless your business get to those numbers. I don't see a market for spoke cutting-threading, other than the odd guy who bought the wrong size

more experienced / pro builders

Well, I did begin by saying "IANA^", which has been amply demonstrated...

Think I might be doing something like 250 a year looking back over my records so this thing will become a dust magnet. Thanks again for the input.

In addition, there is another guy in south London who has a spoke cutter/threader... Jonathan Bell of Noble wheels and he offers the same service

I see brass washers on various wheel builds between the spoke head and the hub flange. Why do some people use them and others don't?
Are there particular situations when it's better to use some?

Thin hub flanges or baggy spoke holes i.e on a used hub

I had a lot of difficulty working out what spoke length I needed for a pair of old 27" rims which were not at all round Anyway the upshot is they're slightly too long and need trimming. Any good suggestions for trimming? - and no, I don't own a Dremmel

Any good suggestions for trimming?

http://www.wheelfanatyk.com/store/morizumi-sct-machine/

Ha! very funny. Bet I could buy quite a few Dremmels with the amount that would set me back

Jokes aside, if your spokes are too long they are almost certainly going to need their threads extended in order to work. Chopping off the excess length is the easy bit, sometimes horrible OEM wheels built with single wall rims get the projecting ends of the spokes ground off flush with the nipple heads.

This is a motorcycle wheel, but you get the picture:

I've finished truing up the first wheel - my first ever build and remarkably the warped band of alloy is now pretty true, but there's a mm or so sticking out of a lot of the nipples.
The other wheel will have to wait for truing. I finished lacing it but had 2 spokes with dodgy threading. I guess that's what you get for buying cheap. Strangely, the threads looked really clean. It was a while till I realised they weren't threads at all - just grooves. Bizarre or what?

Seems like the best place to ask this:

Is there a better option for a sturdy, nice but not pricey flip-flop commuting wheelset than Novatec hubs (Spa/On One/other?) laced to Mavic CXP22?

I want the option of running 32c tyres and CXPs seem to be the best combo of width, price, weight and toughness.

No idea about spokes, but I was going to ask @arup to do the build, so...er...the ones he tells me to get! I'll also get some Hope hex skewers, meaning I can stop carrying a 15mm spanner around with me.

CXP22 is really a bit narrow for 32C tyres, you should be shopping for at least 23mm wide, maybe even more if you're not planning to fit super-skinny tyres at any time. Mavic A319 would work, but if you have a bit of flex in the budget then Rosebikes have a good price on DT TK540 at the moment, which is a much nicer rim.

I can stretch to those - cheers

EDIT: why do the Germans - of all people - have their own unique non-metric size for wheels (28")?

why do the Germans - of all people - have their own unique non-metric size for wheels (28")?

I don't think they are the only people who use this terminology, for example Corima also use it, as do Vittoria. It's just an inch conversion from 700mm.

My first wheelbuild and I'm trying to figure out if my measurements are off. Using 32h Novatec D772SB hub (very similar to the popular D712SB but has 4 pawls and thru axle compatibility) and H+Son Archetypes with the intention of lacing both sides 3 cross to keep it simple. I've into all the measurements and stuff into this (https://leonard.io/edd/) calculator and it gives right spoke length as 288.2 and left as 288.8. Assuming that it was wrong, I repeated the process in a different calculator but got similar results (I think about 0.1mm difference). Does it mean that spokes on both sides should be 288?

Yeah but it's odd that only Euro brands seem to do it. I've never seen a UK or US company not refer to that size as 700(something).

I await you posting a link proving otherwise within seconds :)