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• #427
I see what you mean about the forward (or not) position of the mech. Unfortunately there isn't any way to move it further forward with the current adaptor, maybe with a different adaptor but this is the third one we've tried.
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• #428
Has anyone else spaced out Hollograms before? What did you use?
BB30 plastic shims. What you can get away with / do is defined by the axle length and whether it has a shoulder or not.
Would spacing the cassette outboard help? If possible...
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• #429
if you are after 50/34 sram rings I could have some very soon .. used not abused
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• #430
This frame and how to build it up is the conundrum gift that keeps on giving. Will its next owner go through the same palaver?
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• #431
Not sure if it's the camera angle but in the picture posted on the previous page the tail end of the mech looks really far away from the chainring while the upper end (by the pivot) is closer to the chainring. Does it not need to follow the same line all the way around the chainring?
Can the tail end get closer?
Sorry if you've already tried this, figured I'd do no harm in mentioning. -
• #432
I think that's due to the way YAW mechs work
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• #433
to my non-expert eye it looks like the front mech needs to be lower - even 1mm may make a difference and rotated counter clockwise by a fraction (when looking down at the FD). Perseverance will pay off - I have my apex stuff running fine with no rub and shifting sweetly - this is with force 22 cranks and rings. I know the YAW stuff is different but when I'm on the big ring the FD cage is about 1-2mm from the teeth. It must be possible. In any case, I'd take rubbing on 53/12 over rubbing on 39/18 onwards.
Hope you can get it sorted.
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• #434
Do you even Shimano?
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• #435
Can't you just use an ultegra front mech?
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• #436
As per my earlier photo, theres two version of the force 22 one that we have, might be worth trying that
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• #437
Maybe it's not YAW, but SHOU?
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• #438
Very different cable pull to what the sram yaw ones are I imagine
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• #439
I say just deal with the chain rub if you cross chain.
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• #440
Nor that it's important
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• #441
No. What is important that it works.
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• #442
b00m!
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• #444
impressive weight for a man sized bike built on moderate budget! Roll on summer ey
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• #445
full spec including geo please! x
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• #446
Photo of bike not scales please.
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• #447
weighs about the same as my steel bike.
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• #448
Fraction of the price
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• #449
Hopefully not jumping the gun to say this; but I think we've cracked it. The new SRAM Red 22 chainrings (thanks for the speedy postage @noBlakes ) helped a bit (Thanks again @Howard for lending me the hologram spider tool) but not much, they do look nicer though and shift much better than the praxis:
I'd been told that Q rings XL use a shim to push the derailleur back into a position where it can shift as the 'peak' of the ring passes and I was wondering if this would help with me as it would mean that it would move the chain up the derailleur to a wider area hopefully stopping the rub. I was looking into this shim and I discovered that Rotor charge £25 for this small 12mm piece of plastic, so in looking for a cheaper alternative I found that SRAM actually make an angled shim for bikes using compacts with a certain angle of seat tube (thats also only a tenner):
So I asked @CleverMike to test out the principal with a washer, before I spend even more money on this bike. which he did with a small piece of metal clamped in the band on:
Apparently the results are instant; the mech was in a much better position right away and generally shifting as its meant to in the first place:
So we've tracked down the part number for the SRAM shim and it should be here tomorrow so I can go for a ride on sunday if I'm not to knackered from cross on saturday!
So pleased that it's finally working!
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• #450
GREAT NEWS SPOTTER. Really good to hear. Rings look rad as fuck. Much better than the Praxxis.
The front mech does go far enough in so that the small ring sits inside the limits of the cage. It is the difference between that and the big at the rear that makes the chain rub. I tried fitting a spacer already and it didn't resolve the issue. However, seeing as i've tried everything else 5 times it might be worth giving it another go. I'm worried though that the amount of movement needed might be more than the axle has spare.
Has anyone else spaced out Hollograms before? What did you use?