Wheelbuilding / Wheel Building / Wheel build help

I have a ~280g 28h Fiamme Ergal Gold that's destined for the front of a weenish fixed HC bike. Should I go radial or 3x? I know radial will be marginally lighter but I don't mind a few grams if it gets me a bit more stiffness.

Radial is actually marginally stiffer, as long as your hub doesn't explode.

oh cool, so at least I'll only offend the fashion police with a 28 spoke radial wheel. Thinking this for hub:

which I assume will be ok. It's not going to be used much as I'm not too confident in the rim and it'll have a <200g tub on.

When I was your age and weight, I rode a couple of full TT seasons on 24H radial to 320g CX18s with 150g Wolber Record 18 Piste tubs, front and rear, and I only stopped because I switched to a 26" front wheel.

Well secondary purpose is for a kinda oldschool TT build for the Jowan if I can find a nice drilled fork so they might get a run out on the H10/2.

I have one of these hubs in 16h laced up to a RS80 rim.
Not ridden it much in the last 3 months but put a fair few miles in on it before and had no issues to report.

Tuning my Eastons and this happened. Glad I noticed!

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Anyone bought from just riding along?

Yeah I knew you were on the wind up. Funny that some gave tips really. Surely twisting spokes is totally shite?!?

Just picked up some old R 40 h/F 32h Airlites for a 40s/50s build, rear has previously been 4x... never done one of those. I think for such a very high flange (which Airlite rears are) the angles seem a bit nutty!

@skinny I have bought spokes from them, they were best price I could find and shipped quickly. Sorry can't comment beyond that.

radial lacing to go back a few post is only stiffer than 2x if it laced head in wich is norally bad for the flanges. Other wise if laced radial head out the reduction in bracing angle reduces stiffness but as the spokes are shorter then this make up for that so over all heads out radial and 2x lacing end up giving a front wheel the same or similar stiffness.

Lots of shops sell spokes I do. Does Just riding along charge postage? The reason why your easton suffered wind up is the problem when trying to true a wheel with alloy nipples. The intial build would not have much wind up but corrosion leads to wind up. If building with alloy nipples the wheels must be stiff enough and have even tension not to ever go out of true or not worry when you see 0.5mm of wobble and just live with it.

Yep. Buying small parts and a wheelbuild for a friend. Great to deals with all the way.

Thanks. Il go for them. Jon has been great in responding to emails about build questions.

Cheers guys

The reason why your easton suffered wind up is the problem when trying to true a wheel with alloy nipples. The intial build would not have much wind up but corrosion leads to wind up. If building with alloy nipples the wheels must be stiff enough and have even tension not to ever go out of true or not worry when you see 0.5mm of wobble and just live with it.

regarding alloy nipples - what would happen if an experienced builder use some sort of compound on the spoke threads that would prevent the spokes seizing to the nipples???

and what if the user cleans his wheels properly and drops oil into the nipple holes every now and then to prevent corrosion???

What if they use Sapim alloy nipples, which outperformed their own brass ones in corrosion testing? :-)

I build with sapim alloy nappies a fair bit and I can assure they do seize eventually although it does take alot of wet weather riding. If you use an anti seize compound or sapim nipple freeze (a week loctite) on the threads then this maybe avoided but as I said is the trick is to build a wheel which is stiff enough with good even tension that it never goes out of true. If you do this you never have to worry about the nipples being seized. Brass nappies can become difficult to turn on wheels ride in lots of wet weather but that is more grit in the threads rather than corrosion. The effect is the same though.

CleanING the wheels after you have ride on gritted roads may not help as the salt solution has got into the threads and you won't wash it out. Also oil dropped onto the threads will not get into the threads. When building if I find a nipple that it tight to turn dropping oil onto it does not help. I have unwind it and oil the threads then screw it back on.

Any recommendations on places (preferably in the UK) to buy custom length spokes? I need some 142mm and 144mm black spokes for a Brompton wheel build, and I'm struggling to find anywhere not in the US which can supply them. Cheers all.

Question for you wheel builders, I need a replacement set of wheels for my 1987 specialized rockhopper mtb.

Canti brakes and 7 speed.

I can't find anything in the usual shops. Any ideas what to build?

It's a steel frame so I could cold set to 135mm rear spacing.

I think justridingalong have a Phil cutting/threading tool. If so they should be able to help.

Have a look on bikediscount.de for cheap rim brake wheelsets.

Any ideas what to build?

Shimano FH-T780 and HB-T780, DT Alpine III, Mavic XM719 or Rodi Airline 3 if you want to save £60 and don't mind the extra 300g

BLB cut & roll threads of spokes to length.

as does condor....prolly much better

well what if you, say , have a crash and no matter how tight your wheel is it will still go out of alignment?

also ,surely ,if you have some sort of compound on your threads the salt solution you are talking about still can't get into your nipples???

Thanks Tester. Appreciate the advise.