1939 Holdsworth La Variable

So, got some adjustable toe clips:

and Alfredo Binda NOS toe strips:

BW featherweight BB cups:

B and T bell:

NOS Everest 3 speed freewheel:

and NOS Coventry chain:

Birmalux seat pin:

Brooks B15 saddle:

Trying to be as much as period as possible without breaking the bank.

So just a recap.

The La Variable spec say:

Frame: La Variable
Chain Wheel Set : Williams C34 (Hilary has one for 35 pounds)
Chain: Coventry Roller Chain 1/2 in x 1/8 in
Pedals: Bramptons Mark 10 (not the Mark 10, but the B8)**
Gear: Simplex 'Selection Standard' -> could get a Osgear Super Champion instead
Wheels: 26 x 1 1/4 Endrick rims on Holdsworth Hubs (not the same, got Weinmann 27 1 1/4 concave rims on (possibly) Le Tour Normandy (from Maillard) high flange hubs)
Tyres: no idea what to get yet
Saddle: Brooks B15
Brakes: Holdsworth Italian "Bulla" calliper brakes - no idea what to get
Handlebar and stem: Highgate or Bailey Bend - no idea what to get
Mudguards: Bluemels

I'm sure you know this but that kind of freewheel is a bitch to remove. Put loads of anti seize grease when mounting....
Really nice project!

Nice reminder! I was gonna put grease everywhere anyway though :)

Thanks!

Did you get hold of the c34 chainset, as my Gillott came with one which your welcome to.
The chainset is all in one piece this time.

Nope, no chainset yet.

Williams C1000 and cotterpins just arrived.

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Forgot about this build!

Love those 3 bolt Williams chainsets.

How far off assembling this beast are you?

Having missed a nice cheap Osgear Super Champion, I've decided to go single with the wheel set I've got.
I miss the BB and the brakeset.

And the pedals. But those I've got. Almost.

Undecided if I should keep the wheel set I have (Normandy hubs) or go for now steel rims and nice clean BH Sivada hubs (but the whole wheelset price with spokes and building will shot to over £150 for that alone :/)

Ah damn. Stem and bar as well :

Anyone has experience with Bayliss Wiley BB axles?

Here's a char of their lengths: http://www.classiclightweights.co.uk/bblengths.html

I've found an American guy who's selling a bunch of them. Turns out he's just finished his Flying Scott and had to try different ones until he found the correct one.
He also has a Williams single crank and single speed sprocket rear and he had to go for the 125mm mod.23

If is safe to assume I'd need the same ?

Have you used the lug pen?

Got it today in the post along with the paint :)

Is sometimes a case, like this guy, of trial and error.

You might no necessarily need the same length. You will need the right axle length to give you not only a good chainline but also to clear the chainring off the chainstay.
So based on my previous experience it will depend on the chainring size you use (as the bigger the chainring the closer it will run to the chainstay, ie the longer the axle needed to clear) and the frame's wheelbase (the shorter the wheelbase the greater the angle the chainstays leave the bb shell to meet the rear spacing, ie the closer the chainring will run).
Hope it makes sense.

Makes lot of sense.

I'll take a few measure and try to calculate it and see if he's willing to measure his frame as comparison

So, regarding the Bottom Bracket axle.

I've measured my BB shell width and it seems it's a 65mm one !
Rear is 110mm.

Also from the Classic Lightweight website, I read that Bailyss Wiley only made one model of BB axle, the mod 15 which is 122mm long.

I spoke with the guy with a Flying Scott and he stated that when he tried that axle on the Scott, which was from the '57, it stood out too long and the mod 23 (which is 125mm long) didn't. Which is really weird!
UPDATE: he explained: "Yes the 15 is longer on the drive side. It pushed the chainline out to far on mine"

I'm enquiring more. Luckily the guy loves to speak about vintage bikes :)

Anyway, as Classic Lightweights states that BW only made mod 15, marked as ngcc (non gear case clearance ie for single sprocket on the rear) until 1953, then, I suppose, that's the one I probably need.

This guys on BikeForums states (and confirms I need a mod 15):

Cottered spindles made for cheap tenspeeds are longer because of the extra chain ring; spindles for old three speed bikes are longer to allow for the chain guard (the cranks have more space between the chain guard and the crank arm); and spindles for roadsters are even longer to allow for the full chain case. For a lightweight you want something around 122 mm.

I use 122mm axles, i would asume the narrower the BB axle the better the chain line, as you only have 110mm to play with on the rear axle.

Where did the cotter pins come from? Are they tapered or do you have to file them?
The bike looks great. Well done.

Thanks mate.

I think I'll try luck and go for the mod 15.

Thanks, really appreciated!

Thank you. It does look great indeed :)

Got cranks and pins from Hilary Stone.

Also the ends of the axle have a threaded hole.

What bolt do I need for those?