Any question answered...

If it's cyanoacrylate based (which a quick google suggests it is) then yes, acetone should do the trick

When I have watched Argos do it they don't apply any cooling - just careful heat from a brazing torch.

I have a slight 'click' on my bike when pedalling - once every rotationg of chain. It's felt as much as heard.

The bike's 10sp (Shimano 4600 mech, 5701 cassette, 6701 chain with a quick link).

Things I think are OK;

• pedals
  
• bb
  
• chain wear, quick link, stiff links
  
• cassette isn't worn, it's secure on freehub and the freehub is clean and not visibly damaged, it's an Ambrosio Zenith hub
  
• jockey wheels spin OK and have all their teeth
  
• chainring isn't warped or anything
  
• freehub seems to sound OK and I can't detect any movement - although it's not easy to put much force through to test.
  
  

Any ideas what I'm overlooking?

If the emphasis is on cheap, there are a few things you might already have at home:
Possibly acetone - try cheap nail varnish remover
Possibly isopropyl alcohol - try surgical spirits / rubbing alcohol
Possibly methylene chloride - try paint stripper but be aware of the fumes

I've used nail varnish remover in the past to remove excess thread locking compound during assembly - not sure how different it is when it's had time to cure...

Doesn't boiling water work on blue Loctite? I might be thinking of something else though.

Directional chain on backwards?

QR skewers?

Hanger alignment?

I did check the chain direction.

What's the deal with the QRs?

...I will check the hanger. Cheers.

QRs - just make sure they are tight. If they are open cam design, give the cam surfaces a good clean and a drop of oil / grease then re-tighten.

or bin them and get enclosed cams :)

I see. I'll report back.

If it's a click on every revolution of the chain, and not once every revolution of the chainring/jockeywheel/cassette/cranks then surely it must be chain related? I had a similar click when one of the side plates on the chain on my 29er was about to make a bid for freedom. I worked out what the clicking noise was when the chain fell apart halfway through a 6 hour enduro race.

If it really is every revolution of the chain then it's probably easier to replace the chain and save yourself some dicking around. Problem is it's kinda difficult to tell if it really is once a revolution, and it doesn't hurt to check the usual suspects before binning it.

@miro_o
To confirm: Once "every rotation of chain", or once per pedal-stroke?

Oops, beaten to it.

I get this intermittently with my Centaur cranks, flushing the bearings with new grease always cures it. Should probably get them changed really.

Chainring bolts all torqued correctly?

Front derailleur cable end hitting crank?

Was just about to say - FD cable end hitting crank - I've spent many hours cleaning and tightening things only to realise it was the cable getting flicked by the crank.

Can someone find a geo chart for this bike? http://www.evanscycles.com/products/trek/920-2015-touring-bike-ec074307

I cant find it on Trek website; someone with access to distro info maybe?

Thanks all for the suggestions. I've been working my way through...

It seems the chain is not not sitting well on the 14t. The quicklink is catching occasionally, other links (which look just fine) are rubbing/sticking, then releasing from the 13t. I've just given it a clean and it's no better. I'll replace the old quicklink.

It's very odd because the mech is straight and the indexing is perfect. It's almost as if the spacing is too small or the chain too wide.

I've checked this and all spacers are in place.

Is it possible to compress a cassette by over-torquing the lockring?

I did use a big wrench with no gauge.

Is it possible to compress a cassette by over-torquing the lockring?

Given the properties of the materials concerned, I'd say the lock ring threads would strip before you could reduce the sprocket spacing by an amount of the same order as the usual manufacturing tolerances.

It doesn't seem the type of potential issue that'd pass Shimano by does it? Most of their stuff seems fairly idiot-proof.

Most of their stuff seems fairly idiot-proof.

When used as directed; CN-6701 doesn't have a quick link :-)

Sure. I've not had a problem before with 10sp Sram, KMC or Wipperman links on Shimano 10sp cassettes and I usually use 105 or Ultegra chains.

There is something else going on. I think the quicklink catching is a symptom rather than the cause. At other points on the chain it's (ever so slightly) riding a ridge of the 13t then pinging back and seating on the 14t.

I'm going to run it by my LBS and see what they say (other than "it's a winter hack bike, shut-up and ride it").

Aluminium melts at 660 deg C, that's not hot enough to change the temper of the steel very much unless it's maintained for hours, rather than the few minutes it takes for the molten remains of the seat post to trickle out of the frame. Of course the paint on that part of the frame will be burnt away.

I've seen it done, but wasn't impressed with it as an answer to the problem. I think speed is the main thing to recommend it over more mechanical approaches.

At other points on the chain it's (ever so slightly) riding a ridge of the 13t then pinging back and seating on the 14t.

Have you got a bent tooth (or several) on your 13T sprocket? Or (less likely, as it would have to bend the wrong way in relation to the usual shifting forces) a bent tooth on the 14T.

Aluminium melts at 660 deg C

Or a bit less for the alloys commonly used for seat posts.

And it can be done with fucking magnets :-)

http://youtu.be/qUiCh1OTLts?t=1m33s