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Good call. Cheers
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I need a new rubber presta gasket thing for a Hirame head. I think they are sold in packs of three.
Does anyone know of a UK stockist?
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I like the first one. There’s something cool going on with the motion-blur shadows. Great subject.
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Developer choice has more of an influence than film
Yes. Chemicals and method.
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I’ve been nerding out on b&w film over the last two years mostly processing in Xtol and Rodinal and these are my brief thoughts on some of the films out there.
Kentmere 100/400, FP4/HP5 - baseline films. Push and pull just fine. You just get larger apparent grain with the Kentmere film and not quite the insane latitude. TriX behaves exactly as HP5 as far as I can tell.
Ilford Pan 100 - A smidge more contrast than the above. Therefore a little less suitable to push (I still shoot it at EI 200 all the time but wouldn’t go further). Poor man’s FP4.
Pan F 50 - A bit slower than box. A bit more contrast again and just kinda beautiful. Process straight after shooting essential.
Adox HR-50 - High detail. Low lattitude. High contrast. A bit of red sensitivity built-in but looks good with a yellow filter too (requires a bit more care shooting and processing than the films above). Thin negs are best. Clear base. Benefits from a prewash. Easy to scan. Cheap.
Rollei Retro 400 - very similar characteristics to HR-50 (and nothing like other ‘400’ speed films such as HP5 or TriX). Some grain. Moody shot at 400. Benefits from a prewash. Very cheap.
Tmax 100 - very, very fine grain. High detail. Pretty high contrast. Red sensitive (which I really don’t like for portraits but is good for landscapes). Needs lots of fixing and washing. For some reason is like it in 120 but in 35mm I’m not sure maybe I need to hone my times for Xtol for this to get the tonality I see others get. It’s also really expensive in 35mm.
Tmax 3200 and Ilford Delta 3200. I’ve not shot enough to say anything other than … I liked both best @EI 1000 and it didn’t look any better than HP5. Mad grain.
Foma 400 … I have 61 metres of this in my fridge but haven’t shot any yet.
Sorry for the long effortpost.
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All three are great
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Forward facing drop outs make sense but I’m not a fan of the huge gap I would have to leave between my wheel and the guard at the BB bridge.
I’ve only done it with road frames. Their dropouts are relatively short and more downward facing. Unless the tyre is inflated the gap needn’t be big.
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For year-round fixed the advantage of forward facing drop outs (over track ends) is it’s easier to drop a wheel out to fix a flat, whilst running full, long mudguards.
I can’t really think of any other reasons off the top of my head.
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I think the OM XX cameras are all sweet with LR/SR44 batteries - no issues. There’s a possibility of corroded wires, which will effect the meter. A test against a free Lightmeter app on a phone is easy enough. They’re usually within half a stop or completely obviously off (or non-functioning).
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https://www.the-darkroom.co.uk/
Excellent for E6 processing which I believe they run several times per week. They’re also good people. Last time I was in they were busy processing 20+ Velvia 4x5 sheets for some maniac. Don’t be put-off by the website.
#keepcyclingweird