Any question answered...

Whats the difference and why would you recommend the m540s over the m520s?

(Other than the fact they're 20 better)

I'm sure they're almost identical, 540s are a tiny bit lighter and don't have spanner flats for fitting. No idea what ed was on about with hurting unless he meant financially as 520 are a bit cheaper.

Put a spider in there, it'll spin a web and silence the stone.

Then you put a bird inside to catch the spider..

Super glue and spin the wheel.

Also hope you feel better soon, it sounds horrible

Thank you and for your messages too, @Zerostar, @Oliver Schick and @fidbod.

Meh. Hit a bit of a low point today. Kind of imagined I'd be getting out and using using public transport by now, at least, and was hoping to get to CyclePS this evening, but even just a trip to the top of my road and back has wiped me out. I also need to get much more disciplined about eating regularly so I don't lose weight (which I can ill afford to do).

Mild Bitching thread.

NB: a word of caution - don't attempt to write your Christmas cards while rattling with high doses of painkillers. Hilariously, it seems that one or two people I actually managed to get cards to, had to use their imaginations to complete the sentences. Ooops!

Pretty much what @snottyotter said, I got the M540s as it's very much a cheaper version of my old XTR one;

Difference between 540 and 520 is hard to notice when riding, biggest difference is the lockbolt made of metal.

its been this way for a while. looks like aliums and the old xc2/4/roc have been discontinued and replaced with square bar versions (check the time website) but not available anywhere yet.

Will going into work tomorrow and check with the distro, they might have some ideas of what will be available.

Are wellgo QDR pedals a good idea?

I'm thinking partly anti theft as I can unclip them when locking somewhere shitty and partly being able to swap between spd and regular if I buy another set.

If you don't mind having your feet a lots wider apart.

Run cheap hybrid pedals instead?

mks mt ft ftw

From a structural point of view how important is the chain stay bridge? I have a steel touring bike made out of 4130 and the bridge is reducing my ability to use any tyres over 28mm (g'dammit). Option one is to remove the bridge and be done with it - option two is to take the frame to the local welder and get him to move it. If option 2 is the lfgss preferred option can i get him to weld some disc tabs on to the stay while I'm at it without any other structural changes to the rear stays?

option 3 is to run the very fashionable 650b wheels, speak to teh scobel..

The rear triangle has probably not been designed to take the forces associated with a disc brake, so probably not a great idea, especially if you weaken it by relocating the bridge.

You'd probably be fine with no bridge and no brake, a disc tab would likely make the frame crumple into a ball of flames.

will go with the crumpled ball of flames option - seems safest.

or

Will just move bridge and leave it at that. Frame is 62cm 650b will look stoopid

..move brake bridge, then discover chain stays don't allow 28mms plus mudguards, refabricate whole rear end for £200, then you may as well convert to discs (£150) and electric gs (£500), more puppy killing and brazing ensues, another £200, of course a respray required, £100... £1,150 later and you wish you'd thrown it in the canal and bought a jamis on the btw scheme

If I'm setting up a bike for 1x9 or 1x10 gearing, standard 135mm rear hub, how far out should the chainline be at the front?
Is there an easy way of calculating this?

Best way to trim axles that overhang the track nuts by a few mm?

chainline middle of the block, no?

That seems sensible, but how far is that in chainline mms?
I'd rather know beforehand if I need to buy a new BB.

About 50mm.

Thanks.
I'll add a new BB to the list then...

It doesn't look that bad...

https://www.flickr.com/photos/immmu/15884348997/

I'm assuming a proper job, not just chewing a bit off in situ with an angle grinder...

Strip down to a bare axle, fit a (possibly sacrificial) nut below the anticipated new end, mount in a lathe, remove excess material, chamfer end, remove nut, repeat at other end.

If you have the correct die, this could be used instead of a nut - removing the die or nut after cutting and chamfering should correct any deformation of the thread caused by cutting.

The unwanted material could be removed by repeated facing off using a carbide tipped tool, but I've had good results from mounting a Dremel with cutting disc on the cross slide - slower, but less clamping force needed at the chuck and so less likelihood of distortion.

With care, patience, a hacksaw and smooth jaw engineering vise, you could trim the ends manually - not everyone has access to machine tools - the trick with the nut to re-form the thread would be essential in this case.

If it is only a few mm, I'd consider living with it. I've shortened a BMX axle because I have no use for stunt pegs, but Mrs.E described it as engineering OCD...