Which Groupset?

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  • Just came here to say my SRAM apex stuff is working well. Haven't adjusted since installing, shifting fine. Even at the front. Probably set up wrong at the front as I'm using Force 22 Cranks with a standard front derailleur but don't get any rub. Surprised as I'm not running inline adjusters so cable tension is quite crudely set (and probably too high).

    I would say the standard cables are crap. the outers are stiff to the point where you can feel resistance when turning the bars and I suspect I'll be recabling very soon.

    I think the point is, even a budget low end group of any brand is going to work well.

  • (If set up correctly with decent cables...)

  • Definitely blame cable issues and not the groupset. My SR was pretty amazing when set up well. But the internal cable Routing, slammed bars, and XS framesize, made achieving this awesomness a pain.

    Whether you run 7 speed or 11 speed. You still need the Chain placed nicely onto the sprocket for a smooth drivetrain. As for pulling less cable. Why? I havent, and cant be arsed to, look into this. But in theory you could pull a yard of cable and have it actuate a fraction of a millimeter of Chain movement. So this all seems highly irrelevent. If the engineers felt they needed to pull more cable to be accurate, they would have.

    It makes sense that poorly set-up 11 speed, will misbehave before poorly set-up 7 speed. But why run poorly set-up gears?

    I've dumped my SR 11 speed for Di2 because of poor performance. But thats Down to my lack of talent, not Campagnolos.

    Meh.

  • I have never had a good experience with internal cabling.

  • This.

    Especially in Cannondale frame, if not carefully aligned, you'll get that horrible friction every time you modulated the back brakes.

    #notallcannondale

  • Cog spacing determines how much the derailleur cable has to move when initiating a gear shift.

    Total bollocks. The cable movement required between gears is determined by the mechanical advantage at the derailleur, which is why SRAM derailleurs (using the Exact Actuation system) require greater cable pull than Shimano derailleurs, both on 11 speed systems.

  • It's like you literally know nothing.

    Think about it, there's a reason why you can't use campagnolo mechs with shimano and you can't use shimano mech's with sram

  • Ultimately gear shift is done by the mech.

    So your most recent groupset is the Shimano Positron.

  • Schtaaaaap

  • You're all wrong, to access one's other gear you stop the bike and flip the rear wheel around.

  • I've taken to pushing the chain from sprocket to sprocket with half a pool cue which I keep taped to the top tube when not in use.

  • If you had 3 sprockets would you need an extension for your cue? Push ratio would be different.

  • Anyone that says Rim brakes can be as good as Hydraulic discs, even in the dry, are talking so far out of their arse.
    Hydraulic discs are leaps ahead.

    I can understand why they're not in the pro peloton though. Unless every rider was using them, there would be a pileup into the first corner!

  • I think the usual argument is that rims brakes are all you need on a road bike, and that discs are overkill.

    Which I Guess is true.

    Its that 'need' Word again though.

    I'd personnally love to smash some alpine descents With some hydraulic discs fitted.

  • With rims brakes, you worry about the brake limitation.

    With disc brakes, you worry about the tyre limitation.

    Latter is always better.

  • That just describes off-roading Ed.

    I have Hope M4s on the fatbike, With a 160/203 rotor set-up, and 5" studded tyres. Total overkill for the sort of riding the bike sees. But still awesome.

  • That just describes off-roading Ed.

    Can apply to road too, no reason why not.

  • The focus of disc vs rim needs to shift from the functional aspect to a more of a logistical and design one.

    Discs are better. OK.
    Can I buy a frame designed for/around them easily? No.
    Can I buy the full hydraulic set up easily? No.
    Is it cheap? No.
    I'll wait another year or two then.

  • You can buy a full group for £1200. Only a little more than non hydraulic.

    Starbike sell it.

    Disc frames are easy to come across.

    From the ultimate buyer your very negative!!

  • Can I buy a frame designed for/around them easily? No.

    Yes you can, you don't even need to cut the housing (Genesis Equilibrum Disc for example, it got Di2 mount).

    You already got a custom frame with Di2 and disc mount.

    Can I buy the full hydraulic set up easily? No.

    Yes you can, they're not out yet in the UK according to Madison, R785 and R685 is awaiting production and may be available in February.

    Is it cheap? No.

    R685 shifter/brake is £470, 105 5800 caliper brake and shifter is £245, not cheap, but not exaggeratedly so.

    R785 is better value at £500 compare to Ultegra Di2 with calipers at £360.

    I'll wait another year or two then.

    We're already here.

  • I wasnt talking about me ;)

  • @amey

    Discs are better. OK.
    Can I buy a frame designed for/around them easily? No.
    Can I buy the full hydraulic set up easily? No.
    Is it cheap? No.
    I'll wait another year or two then.

    Will the shifters ever not be butt-ugly though?

  • The electronic shifters will look fine. The shimano mechanical hydraulic shifters don't look too goofy.

  • Has anyone got a view on when would be a good time to buy a new sram groupset (mechanical)? I assume there might be some good deals available after christmas? It's for my summer bike so I can bide my time for a few months at the least.

    Currently I'm thinking rival or force 22, and I wouldn't be against getting an old 10-speed group for the right price. Sram is on the agenda because I like the hood shape.

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Which Groupset?

Posted by Avatar for braker @braker

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