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Best guess, bike saddle rail clamp
or seat rail clamp -
Are there local "bike dumps" out there that have old spare parts available? There must be a few billion left over from Raleigh/Robin Hood/BSA et cetera three speeds.
Or was it a converter that you needed, like a saddle sandwich?
http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/breezer-saddle-sandwich-combi-twin-rail-saddle-adaptor-prod28524/ -
I've got a few at work, local bike shop should be able to sort you out.
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Assuming the past I'm looking at is the same as most of the other sturmey jobs and not slightly different in some odd dimension.
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Electrics question: I have a couple of Habitat lamps that have stopped working. The bulbs are all fine, so I assume it's the transformers (which are integrated into the plug). The specs for the transformer are printed on it (see the image). They take 12V G4 bulbs (20W max) Is there something I could replace the transformer with that will resurrect the lamps? I'm happy to do a bit of wiring.
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This picture may have answered my question in advance but I'd like my mind set at ease by someone more experienced with this style of bottom bracket if possible.
I have just fitted an ISIS bottom bracket & crank on my track bike, BB threaded in fine, nice and tight etc..
However, the reverse of the chainring bolts rubbed a tiny bit when the chainring was fitted. the BB came with a spacer (just 1) on the non drive side which didn't seem to be doing much, the cranks were previously used, so the spacer could have come from either side, I added this to the drive side and now there is no rub with the chainring bolts along with a good chainline and the non drive side still has good clearance.
this picture seems to show a spacer that looks similar to the one in question on the drive side. So maybe thats where it was intended for but i would like some confirmation
Is it going to explode and kill me or will everything be just fine?
Thanks in advance
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It's a PITA googling ISIS right now, but the ring on the axle is called a stop ring or stop collar. There should be one on each side, and the cranks should press against them. They are there to provide a precise axial position of the crank on the axle, which would otherwise be uncertain due to the crank banging into the spline run-out with varying degrees of pressure. If you assemble ISIS cranks without a stop collar, you can damage the crank.
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So the one pictured should ideally have a second spacer on the non-drive side as well?
The one in your picture does have the NDS stop collar. They are often different from side to side due to the particulars of the axle and bearing designs, but as long as there's some kind of shoulder for the crank to abut, all is well. The collar should extend enough to slightly overhang the rounded ends of the spline grooves
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I'm looking to buy an adjustable ahead stem. It doesn't have to be good looking (if that's possible), but I'd want it to be fairly well made and robust as I will probably fit, adjust a few times on the TT bike and forget about it.
Is there particularly anything wrong with this one? http://www.planetx.co.uk/i/q/ST3TAHADJ/3ttt-adjustable-ahead-stem
Any recommendations?
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Genetic Juzzi has greater utility, the two hinges allow independent adjustment of stack and reach.
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Is it worth me getting 180mm cranks for my singlespeed mtb? I'm 6'7" and all my other bikes have 175mm. I wouldn't normally consider it, but attempting to haul my considerable bulk up the hills recently had me wondering if the extra leverage would be of any noticeable benefit.
I'm probably going to ignore Mr Lennard Zinn's suggestion of 200mm + crank length though :-/
I'll be getting new cranks anyway, so not buying them purely for marginal gains.
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Unless you got a 180mm for a good deal
Nothing like that. I'll probably get XT cranks for the Talbot and I'll have the option of getting 180mm, rather than the usual 175mm. They're both the same price.
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https://www.lfgss.com/conversations/172374/?offset=5675#comment9990084
More a discussion than an answer, and nearly a year old - the world has probably moved on a bit more...
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Are dynamo hubs really noticeable when riding? Have ridden with the press on things before and didn't like it feeling like a brake was rubbing was closest that comes to mind.
No. I've done plenty of long rides (200km+ Audaxes) with my SON hub powering a light (Solidlights XB2) and I really couldn't tell the difference between it and a normal wheel.
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our company exclusively uses 5 star, but then HO is in Slough so it makes sense
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Is it worth me getting 180mm cranks
No. Just lower you gearing to provide whatever change of gain ratio you were hoping to achieve with longer cranks.
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Cheers tester & ActionScoble! 175mm it is.
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Hardly noticeable, @Dammit will able to elaborate more as he'll notice the small thing more than me.
Also did audaxes on SON hubs too, they felt incredibly draggy when you try to turn the axle while holding the wheel on your hand, but when riding on the road, even at 5mph before sunrise after a night of riding, you can't feel it at all.
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Any question answered...
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@carson
I cheated and went to the local brompton place because postage from NL was as much as paying for it in a shop. all resolved! who knew actually leaving the house was worthwhile?!
But now, piecing everything together, I find I need a single rail saddle clamp. Where can I get one for a realistic price instead of throwing £15 at brooks?