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• #8152
what bags R theze please?
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• #8153
Swift Industries. Build details/blog http://www.afewsketchymoments.com/2014/09/back-on-cycling.html
Or follow the trip on Instagram: http://instagram.com/afewsketchymoments
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• #8154
thanks Andy, these bags bad to the bone! super looking trip too, I suspect it will inspire me to greater adventures........
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• #8155
Swift Industries is defintely not that waterproof.
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• #8156
Are any of the rando bags really that waterproof though... they all have stitched seams and huge top opening... I suppose you could go all out and have a floating welded roll-top inner, but that'd add weight, cost and compromise ease of access.
With any bike-luggage solution you should always be stashing stuff in dry bags if you don't want it getting wet, whatever the manufacturer claims.
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• #8157
Probably re
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• #8158
With any bike-luggage solution you should always be stashing stuff in dry bags if you don't want it getting wet, whatever the manufacturer claims.
Unless that manufacturer is Ortlieb.
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• #8159
My GB was surprisingly waterproof, and last some several rain during some of the audax ride.
That's mainly because they used the old method of making it waterproof, as the fabric expand when wet preventing it from going through.
The Swifts handlebar bag got quite damp on the inside despite being lined with those waterproof material.
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• #8160
Big Top bag is pretty good at keeping the wet out. Apart from the 2 side pockets, but I only keep spare tube and tyre levers there anyway. Can't fault Jordans work.
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• #8161
Even then, I'd still pop anything vital in a proper dry bag as they'll hold any water you might accidentally introduce (grabbing that last tube, mid downpour with soggy sleeves gloves/sleeves... that sneaky beer you're saving for later that ends up punctured by a stray tent peg...)
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• #8162
That's what I keep there, some inner tube and gel/energy bar.
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• #8163
I'd guess that'd be water coming through the seams rather than saturating the outer and liner (which I assume was your standard waterproof tarp...). It looks like they've replaced the liners with xpac now, should make things a bit lighter but if any water does get in, it won't drain.
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• #8164
not mine, but pretty rad imho -
• #8165
It looks like they've replaced the liners with xpac now.
That's what I have.
You may be on the money about the seams.
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• #8167
I had the same thing happen with my Apidura saddlebag during a long day of pouring rain/riding through streams. Soaked through seams and puddled at the bottom.
Which Swift bag did you pick up/what are you using it for, thought the 2(?) GB bags would have you covered...
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• #8168
Yep, I rode with my DIY effort a bit, didn't find it interfered too much, but a second version might benefit from some spacers/stand-offs e.g.
Just to make it a bit easier to hold the tops on rougher ground and to avoid any cable interference when strapped to the 29er with flat-bars.
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• #8169
no trouble riding with no hands on the bars.
Low trail with front weight made it so much easier to ride no-handed, even on rough surface.
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• #8170
What does the functional crew think about a Kaffenback 2 650b conversion to use as townie? Sensible or stupid?
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• #8171
Nice idea.
Probs going to want to run quite big tyres to make it worth going 650b. Don't the frames fit 35mm + guards as standard?
Don't use flat/fat pedals.
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• #8172
As @miro_o said, going 650b is only worthwhile if you want to run much bigger tyres.
I can't remember whether the chainstay have dimple to allow more clearance for the 700c tyres, however if it does, it quite likely that with the 650b wheel and tyres, it will be fairly tight as it will likely not to be near the dimpled chainstay.
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• #8174
Hadn't noticed this before: http://hubjub.co.uk/index.php/store/frame-and-forks/rawlands-nordavinden-detail
650b in the smallest size, 700 otherwise, low-trail etc.
Thanks, googled them and I agree