Wheelbuilding / Wheel Building / Wheel build help

I have done a few... I think the most notable is the Raid Pyrenean brevet Randonneur. Anyway, I have never seen anyone with a deep carbon rim built on a dynamo hub, which was my point.

For the OP: BLB have Notorious carbon rims in 32 and 28 H drillings... 50 mm and even 90 mm if you are really crazy. Of course they are V shaped and not U shaped, so not as good as an Enve/Zipp

yes if you call the shop . I do have the 771 and 772 hubs now. The aileron is a rim I have been using alot. Very nice as ugo says with a 450-460g average. The pacenti SL25 is one rim I need to try next but aileron rims are going on my disc brake bike when I eventually finsh it. Yes the 771/772 hubs are 440g for a pair and end caps for different axle standards are available. I am trying to get these on my next novatec order.

Rim advice sought. My faux retro fixed gear road bike (an On-One Macinato) currently has Novatec track hubs with Mavic Open Pro rims, 32h laced 3x. Its new wheels will be 28h. This is non-negotiable, as the Powertap track hubs I've just got (as readers of the power meter thread will be aware) are 28h.

I was thinking of going for TB14s, but with 28 spokes it occurs to me that I may be better off going with the default option of Archetypes. Views and alternative suggestions welcome. I'm 80kg in my socks, and the rims must be silver, preferably polished, but definitely silver.

Cheers.

Anyway, I have never seen anyone with a deep carbon rim built on a dynamo hub, which was my point.

I've seen quite a fair number of people riding flashy bike (even tubular tyres) on audaxes, here's an example from the LEL;

Archetypes every time, TB14s are slightly heavier and not as stiff (especially compare to Open Pro).

I think someone else also suggest Kinlin, but not sure if they have one in 28h.

Have some alloy sapim polyax nipples I'm building to some cx ray spokes soon ($$$).

Will some wet chain lube meant for XC use be good enough to lubricate threads enough to stop seizure?

In a non dished wheel the stiffness of the rim is not that crucial... if you like the TB 14, go for it... Archetype is stiffer, but as above, your wheel will be stiff by geometry, provided your hub has a wide enough flange to flange distance

I would use copper slip for that... you really really don't want the CX ray to seize as if it does it's terminal... maybe front only?

Some (rather perverse) thought went into designing that thing...

I would use copper slip

Copaslip (trade name) or a generic copper based anti-seize compound probably won't do any harm, but Sapim's testing claims that their anodised 7075 nipples are actually more corrosion resistant than brass. I think on balance I'd take something with better lubricity.

Yeah I thought I read that somewhere. I mean the internet is full of people saying different things. I've built wheels with brass nipples using aforementioned chain lube and never had an issue. Hoping to do the same with these alloy ones but will go out and purchase something else if I have to.

Should I get some linseed oil?

Should I get some linseed oil?

People suggest linseed oil because it's unstable, but that's why I'd avoid it. I just use a general purpose MoS2 grease on spoke nipples

I use Mobil 1. 10W40 I think. Seems to work.

The reason to use copper paste is to prevent aluminium bonding to stainless steel, which a known electrochemical process which happens over time. Alternatively you can dip the threads in a low viscosity, low strength thread lock, like Loctite 221 and wait for them to dry out, which in the case of stainless might be a while. Shimano do it rather successfully in their mid range wheels, like RS 81. You need to get the right thread lock though, as if you use a strong one you might make things worse

Mythbustin' time - DT Swiss 29'er disc rims claims a max pressure of 60psi. Now I am building these up, give them 120psi in a 23c tyre + the same number of bunny hops and see if the lateral pressure can make the side rim give birth to unclinching.

http://www.allterraincycles.co.uk/DT-Swiss-465D-29er-Disc-Rim

On those very wide rims, you needn't even pump them up to 120psi, hell even 90psi is enough.

I also had the ZTR Crest which have a claim 50psi (I think) max, yet ran 25mm at 80psi previously and was fine, abet I drop it a lots lower to 60psi rear because 80psi was much too firm.

Hell ur right! :D

DT Swiss 29'er disc rims claims a max pressure of 60psi. Now I am building these up, give them 120psi in a 23c tyre

Broadly speaking, if you halve the tyre cross sectional diameter, you can double the pressure
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cylinder_stress#Thin-walled_assumption
This probably breaks down when your tyre narrower than the rim, but it's close enough given the safety factors involved, as long as you don't mind explosions and death. Unhooking the tyre with lateral loads becomes less likely with higher pressure, as the tyre deforms less and the normal force between the tyre and the rim is higher, so there's more friction.

Thanks - unclinching was a thesis on the consequence of the side rim collapsing from the lateral forces #freethetubes

coppaslip with alloy nipples works fine. However if the wheel never needs truing then a pottenially seized nipples are not really a problem. It does actually take a long time for sapim alloy nipples to seize. I have had to give up trying to try many a wheel with brass nipples due then being seized. Brass nipples are therefore not much better in the long run but they are cheaper. This is not a plug for alloy nipples as I mostly use brass but all my personal wheels have alloy nipples. Do I ever need to true them no I don't so I really don't care if they are seized or not.

You'd have thought there would be a market for stainless steel nipples, 10% lighter than brass and no electrolytic corrosion to worry about. The material is about half the price too, which should offset the higher manufacturing cost (brass can be cut at about twice the speed of stainless steel), and since SS is self finishing, there would be no need for the usual nickel plating.

I'd agree with @ugosantalucia, and in that if you're going faux retro, tb14 seem perfect. Very shiny, and very boxy old school looking. I just built a great pair with these onto some (actually vintage not retro) vintage phil road hubs and they are saweeeet.

There was a reason why that is not a good idea, but it doesn't come to mind right now...
Isn't Campagnolo using steel nipples in their mid range (notoriously seized)?

Ryde/Rigida Grizzly (non-CSS) stockists?

Hewitt don't list them anymore; I've dropped DCR Wheels a line, but I don't imagine he keeps his stock up to the minute, not being a shop as such.

Spa Cycles? SJS?