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SONdelux in 20H?
http://www.starbike.com/en/son-dynamo-hub-sondelux/ -
6-bolt disc and 15mm can be accommodated by SON, but only in 32 or 36H
http://www.nabendynamo.de/produkte/son_28_15_en.html -
Most of the Chinese crabbon fibber resellers will drill the rims with however many holes you want. Yoeleo would certainly knock you out some deep section carbon rims with a 36 hole count if you ask nicely. And with disc brakes, you don't have to worry about the brake track melting...
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There are no deep aero 32h rims!
Do you want aero or "aero"? As @danstuff says, there are plenty of deep crabon fribé rims which can be had in 32/36H, but if you were really concerned about your aeros you wouldn't be using that many spokes, because the spokes generate a large proportion of the wheel drag. Half the benefit of deep rims is that they let you use fewer and shorter spokes, what the rim itself contributes to the airflow is in the area of marginal gains.
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Yeah they may look aero but I bet they're not!
I'm having trouble working out which race you're entering where the difference between an Enve-SES and a Chinese knock-off is mission critical, but disc brakes and a dynohub are still the optimal solution.
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low spoke dynamo hubs in 15mm thru and centre lock don't exist.
There's a reason for that :-)
If you persist with the 36 into 18 project, build it 12:6 with the 12 spokes on the disc side, that's the lowest number I've seen being tasked with transmitting brake torque to the rim. Since the angles of the spokes will be slightly different between pushing and pulling, arrange it so that the pulling spokes (when braking) are the more tangential.
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A dynamo hub with an aero rim, I guess I'd like to see that. I somehow feel that if you need a light, you don't need an aero rim... unless you plan to do some crazy US Coast to coast race where you do 25 mph on an interstate in the middle of the night, in which case I would ditch the horrible drag of a dynamo hub for a set of batteries... any other scenario seem to exclude one or the other
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It turns out that the mass of a Li polymer battery needed to replace the dynamo output for 12h is only about 60% of the excess mass of the dyno hub over a standard lightweight front hub found in typical aero wheels. If your support crew can swap out your battery every day, it's a much better deal than a dyno, even ignoring the 5W of motive power you're losing to generate power.
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At home.
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how do you charge garmin/phone/iPod?
From a battery, e.g. ten Nokia DC-19s cost about the same as a SON dyno hub and weigh about twice as much, but don't suck up your power. Between them, they hold about as much energy as the dyno can generate in 36 hours of riding. Sure, if you're going to do more than about 48h of riding between access to mains power for recharging, a dyno makes sense, but then you're probably talking about Iditabike, and electricity is the least of your supply worries.
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I'm having trouble working out which race you're entering where the difference between an Enve-SES and a Chinese knock-off is mission critical, but disc brakes and a dynohub are still the optimal solution.
Tester's said what I was unable to express. I was thinking more along the lines of 'For the love of tynan, WHY?'
skinny
Skülly
gbj_tester
Brommers
ugosantalucia
snottyotter
edscoble-
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Wheelbuilding / Wheel Building / Wheel build help
Posted by
Um, yeah, crossing will never work with 18H because there is an odd number of spokes each side.
I suppose if you want 18 spokes of 6 different lengths you could do a crow's foot pattern :-)
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