Anyone know anything about disc brakes?

Organics work off the bat Ed, the trade off is that they are hopeless in the face of wet and gritty conditions.

Pads are S2 Shimano deore old.

I have had the Spyres since the beginning of the year and have found them to be pretty good. I'm running them with a Shimano IceTech rotor and a stock TRP one on the back.

The stock pads aren't bad, however they wear super quick when there is mud or grit. Recently I swapped the default organic pads for EBC Golds which are a metallic compound which should last a lot longer. For those who have a little problem with judder, I found applying a very thin spot of copper grease on the backside of the pad backing plate shuts it up. Be careful not to get any on the pad surface though.
More info here
http://smutpedaller.blogspot.co.uk/2014/01/trp-spyre-disc-brake-review-first.html

I cleaned my rotor with alcohol, gave the pad a quick clean with some fine sand paper, and a small chamfer on the leading edge and put a dab of grease behind the pad. This successfully shut it up for about 45 mins, before a tiny little squeal started to return. I'm thinking maybe more / thicker grease was needed behind the pad, will investigate more.

For the people with Hylex's - how is the bleeding process compared to a standard MTB flat bar lever?

Old thread resurrection but it's time to start prepping the winter hack for the darker days ahead. I ran TRP Spyre all last winter and was very pleased with them. The front brakes were and still are great but the rear was always a little 'spongy'. It's a full run of cable housing from levers to calipers. Initially I had SRAM outers which I replaced with Shimano but no noticeable change. I've seen Jagwire and Gore mentioned here, anyone have any recommendations of one over the other? Or another alternative?

Linear compressionless BMX cable helps a lot. Cheap as chips on eBay. I got the ones from Blank, noticeable improvement over standard cables.

Bmx cable? Interesting.

The gore cables were amazing but are now discontinued.

I would say that the outer are exactly the same for BMX cables compared to Jagwire. One tip about cutting it though is to use a dremmel to get a clean flat cut and also go for PTFE coated inners and lube it with GT85 every month or so. Works a treat and its bike polo tested for durability.

Yup, for cable discs you need to have perfect cabling. Workshop quality cutters followed by grinding wheel the tip flat, flare the ends, use metal ferrules.
I rate the higher end clarkes cables, only a little more than stock shimano, but I think they give a more solid feeling on discs

My Bb7 keeps seizing / sticking.. Do I put it in the bin or can it be fixed? It's not the cable, but the caliper itself.

Apply some oil in between the outside adjuster and the pads. Sometimes the spring just gets a bit grubby and seizes out. Fixed mine that way.

Bb7 are easy to take apart and service. Some of them are great, the rest are pish and need adjusting constantly yet still deliver poor preformance.

Jagwire have the cheapest compressionless set AFAIK.

Take the pads out then flush the whole thing with GT85.

I beg to differ, BMX compressionless cables are much cheaper for barrel ended setup.

What is going on here? Seems like an upside down post adapter for a mega-roter?

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Wow, that's truly hideous :-/

is that three cobbled together
thats a lot of caliper

Came stock on a synapse disc.

I don't think you need the adaptor at all, don't realise Synapse come with HY/RD.

All the adaptor does is to move the caliper lower, is there any advantage to this instead of mounting it directly? I somewhat doubt it.

I need some 140 mm disc rotors - what's the forum hive mind recommendation? 6 bolt fixing.

Personally recommend the Shimano ice tech rotor, though I'm sure there's better recommendation from other (as always).

I don't think Shimano do a 6 bolt version though, Ed. All theirs are centre lock no?

They do 6 bolt version.

So they do. But I can't find them in 140 mm.