Any question answered...

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  • I bought the fastest CTT legal bike available for my event. #formernationalchampion

  • @amey I have some cable inner liner winging it's way from taiwan. I'll have loads so can post you a peice if that helps.

  • Nope, missed that.

    Imagine a brakeless magnetic fixed gear...
    HHSB 2020.

    It even loads your gadgets whenever you slow down...

  • Magnets!!

  • Whereabouts is the thread with the charities that the forum donates to? I remember seeing it ages ago, I've tried UTFS but I can't remember what it was called...

  • Why is my estimated power on Strava so puny compared to others either side of me on the leaderboard (as in 40-80W vs 200-300W) I've filled in my weight (72kg( and have HR data.....

  • Because Strava is a pile of shit.

  • I'm moving my Di2 from my BMC frame to my carbon CX frame. The rear derailleur and the brake cables are fully internal w/ nice grommets that allow plenty of room for the Di2 cable.

    The front derailleur only has a standard cable hole:

    Will i do some serious damage by drilling out the hole to make it big enough for the Di2 cable?

  • Thats strange .. I have a chinese carbon frame made for both Di2 and mech groupsets but it has a dedicated hole for Di2 FD near the braze on mount ..

  • Not me. No braze-on either...

  • I currently have a Shimano SLX on the front of my belt-drive bike. The pads rattle around quite a lot when going over bumps. Spreading the split-pin reduced this a little, but it is still annoying as I want the bike as quiet as possible.

    Are there any hydraulic MTB brakes out there that hold the pads a bit more securely?

  • Will i do some serious damage by drilling out the hole to make it big enough for the Di2 cable?

    Not if you do it carefully, no. You only need a 6mm hole for an e-tube Di2 cable, so the difference is minimal. Provided that there are no frayed carbon strands, and the edges are nice and smooth it should be fine. There's a lot of material in the bottom bracket area, and enlarging the hole slightly won't make an appreciable difference. Bear in mind that if the hole is actually the end of a metal tube (it is on one of my crabbon fibber frames) you need to find a way to remove the tube.

    I'd be perfectly happy to do it to one of my frames - one of my winter jobs is to drill some new holes in my Cervelo P2 frame - but YMMV.

  • Ta. I'll take a look tomorrow. I have to drill a 30mm hole in my motorbike so i can make a day of it :)

  • Magura MT8 uses magnets, no separating spring. Other MT models probably do too

  • ___ Nvm it loaded a random page so mis-read post as last post ___

  • Excellent, thank you! Bonus points for magnets being involved too.

  • Installing a 12v socket.

  • You'll get better milage with speed holes.

  • Any suggestions for getting oily stains from clothes (shirts/t-shirts)? More oil from food rather than bike, etc.

  • I currently have a Shimano SLX on the front of my belt-drive bike. The pads rattle around quite a lot when going over bumps. Spreading the split-pin reduced this a little, but it is still annoying as I want the bike as quiet as possible.

    Are there any hydraulic MTB brakes out there that hold the pads a bit more securely?>

    It might be age dependant but I'm pretty one of the holes the split pin goes through is threaded on SLX brakes, you might be able to find the little threaded rod that screws into this that is supplied with some brakes somewhere, it'll have a part number you can search if you dig up the shimano tech document. You could try taking out the pad separating spring and spreading that a bit to help keep things more secure. I'm pretty sure shimano brakes are the bestest ever so getting something different due to rattly pads will feel like a downgrade. (If you are selling and it's a left hand lever then dibs.)

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Any question answered...

Posted by Avatar for carson @carson

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