Wheelbuilding / Wheel Building / Wheel build help

^^ & ^^^ I vaguely remember someone mentioning something from a chemists is all. But will give em a go, thanks.
That would be nail polish remover, the active ingredient being acetone.

NB There are acetone-free polish removers now, so check the label carefully.

Kinoko sale have some very cheap low spoke count Hed Ardennes SL rims @ £75 each and Mavic reflex tubs at £25ish

Any decent 27" (630) road rims out there?

I used Sun Ringle CR-18s I bought from the USA on eBay on the Hetchins. Seem decent enough.

Anyone know what I can use to remove sticky residue left by decal removal and other crap?

Having tried petrol, white spirit, turps, acetone, IPA, xylene and MEKK I can positively state that the best stuff is Hammerite brush thinners. Shifts sticky residues better than anything else. A decent acetone/xylene degreaser (like the White Line chain degreaser) comes a second best.

???

I only see they've got one at 149 queen faces

Thanks for your help guys, acetone on it's way, as will be some citrus degreaser (need more anyway, brilliant stuff).
Will ask my painter decorator sister about the Hammerite thinners.

^^ Sale is in-store only

I'm doing a wheel build with an Ambrosio Excellight SSC rim. I've just measured the ERD to be 605 mm. All sellers and the Edd spoke length calculator have the ERD as 600 mm.

Can anyone confirm which is correct?

I'm doing a wheel build with an Ambrosio Excellight SSC rim. I've just measured the ERD to be 605 mm. All sellers and the Edd spoke length calculator have the ERD as 600 mm.

Can anyone confirm which is correct?

600-601 is the one I use for excellight...

^^ Sale is in-store only

Do they have any 24 or 18/20 only?

There was one 24 on display and they had 5 or so of the 18 on their stock system when I asked.

600-601 is the one I use for excellight...

Cheers.

I measured the ERD using some spokes with 12 mm nipples in opposite holes. First I measured nipple end to end and added 24 mm. Then I used two spokes cut to 200 mm with 12 mm nipples and measured the gap between the spokes and added 400 mm.

Both measurements were within 1 mm and I repeated around the rim.

Am I doing something wrong to get 605 mm? This leads to spokes 2.5 mm longer and which I'm concerned could lead to problems in the build if my measurement is somehow wrong.

Cheers.

I measured the ERD using some spokes with 12 mm nipples in opposite holes. First I measured nipple end to end and added 24 mm. Then I used two spokes cut to 200 mm with 12 mm nipples and measured the gap between the spokes and added 400 mm.

Both measurements were within 1 mm and I repeated around the rim.

Am I doing something wrong to get 605 mm? This leads to spokes 2.5 mm longer and which I'm concerned could lead to problems in the build if my measurement is somehow wrong.

To avoid the nipple bottoming the thread, you measure the distance nipple to nipple and only add 2 times 10 mm instead of the 12 of the nipple.... this way you should get 601

There was one 24 on display and they had 5 or so of the 18 on their stock system when I asked.

I suppose an 18 front can be built radial with Dura Ace or Hope... but if they only had 1 x 24 holes, I can't see myself lifting my ass from the sofa to go and have a look if it's still there...
18 for a rear are as useful as a hula hoop

^^ thanks.

I am just getting into wheel building, built half a dozen so far and only produced one, completely pants wheel. (no.2 dissaster!) now confident with 3 cross and managed to produce a 2 cross, 32 front in less than an hour and a half last night (pb!) but tried to do a 3 cross (D), 2 cross (non-D) rear wheel combo which turned quickly in to nightmare, for some unfathomable reason every other spoke was baggy as hell and no much i twisted hub, tried to de-stress spokes it wouldn't equalize. Anyone any ideas?

also rubbing alcohol, shifts all sorts of glue when cleaning old drawing boards

for some unfathomable reason every other spoke was baggy as hell and no much i twisted hub, tried to de-stress spokes it wouldn't equalize. Anyone any ideas?

Check the lacing - possible that you've got one side out of sync. If so, cure might be to move that side's spokes two holes along. (Mind you, when this happened to a friend the symptoms were that one side was massively overtight rather than the other being loose.) Presume you're certain the lengths are right?

Any wheelbuilder recommendations around Reading?

Building up a rear fixed wheel, for general riding and probably using 28mm tires. 32h.
Will an Archetype be a noticeable (+£40) improvement over a Halo Aerowarrior?

Edit:

Would the 24mm wide (ED, not sure what the ID is) of the Aerowarrior be too wide for 28mm tires?

ED = external diameter?

Aerowarrior would probably have an internal width around 20mm and that will float excellent with 28c tyres.

I was running Stan's Iron Cross rims for a while, and they were 20.2mm internal bead-to-bead, and ran them with 25mm and 28mm.

The only issue being the rim was flexy and 25mm tyre was so wide it rubbed on the inside of my old mash bolt fork when out of the saddle!

I was in Reading when you wrote this but am now back up north.

Bike Whisperer in Midgham. #bias