Slipping cranks, drive chain slip?

Provided the threads are still ok you should be fine using the same side of the hub, get yourself a decent lockring tool and do it properly. I use this one from Velosolo http://velosolo.com/combiwhip.html.

Have you tried tightening up the sprocket? if that has slipped back it will be forced against the lockring making it seem tight when its not, tighten up the sprocket then try tighten up the lockring some more.

You don't need a tool for lockrings. Just use your hammer and screwdriver.

Go and pedal up a hill HARD to tighten the cog. Stop at the top, but don't resist against the cranks. Use your brake/feet. Then get out your hammer and screwdriver and knock the lockring round till it's hard up against the cog and won't move any more. Done.

Also, don't put too much (if any) grease on the threads. Unless you have suprehuman tightening strength or leave the bike out to rust for a year, you'll be able to get it undone again. In that application, grease is a recipe for stripped threads

Or you could use the appropriate tools and do it all properly (with grease).

It's a bike with one gear, not the large hadron collider

One gear and the same gear if you don't use grease.

I've read through this lengthy post and am still getting the problem of slipping when hitting a hill hard. I'm using this wheel:

http://www.shopraleigh.co.uk/Product.aspx?pc=2&pt=262&pg=3069

The guy in my LBS won't accept it's slipping and I don't currently have the tools to break it apart and have a look myself - could anyone advise whether this thing has the right hub on? I'd imagined that anything sold as "flip flop" would have the correct threading on the fixed side.

Mr LBS said that because I'd run it with a freewheel and the fixed cog is brand new there might be some slippage from the combination of slightly (very slightly) worn chain and brand new cog and it would "settle in".

I'm taking it steady and run a brake but I do get unnerved when I feel the slipping when I'm hitting a hill (it only happens on really steep ones)

Apologies if this is covered elsewhere

Further to my last post

I've read through this lengthy post and am still getting the problem of slipping when hitting a hill hard. I'm using this wheel:

http://www.shopraleigh.co.uk/Product.aspx?pc=2&pt=262&pg=3069

The guy in my LBS won't accept it's slipping and I don't currently have the tools to break it apart and have a look myself - could anyone advise whether this thing has the right hub on? I'd imagined that anything sold as "flip flop" would have the correct threading on the fixed side.

Mr LBS said that because I'd run it with a freewheel and the fixed cog is brand new there might be some slippage from the combination of slightly (very slightly) worn chain and brand new cog and it would "settle in".

I'm taking it steady and run a brake but I do get unnerved when I feel the slipping when I'm hitting a hill (it only happens on really steep ones)

Apologies if this is covered elsewhere

I run that wheel, took it up a hill at the weekend (with a different sprocket) with no issues. The threads should be fine, since the sprocket tightens on as you pedal the sprocket wouldn't slip a bit due to the threads, it would either be solid or strip the threads entirely.

So it's either the worn chain or it could be because your lockring isn't tightened properly. If the sprocket has room to wind off a little bit when you brake with your legs then it will slip slightly forward again when you next put the power on.

Thanks so much FFM. It barely budges but thinking about it there is a slip back then slip forwards then slip back thing going on so what you're saying about the lock ring makes sense. The chain really hasn't had much wear and it doesn't feel like chain slip so I think its gonna be a shit loads of hills and some tightening. Thanks again for your advice

How the chuff is there all these people riding about on fixies that don't own chainwhips and lockring spanners?

It's not like they cost a lot, often you can find them integrated into the one tool and if you ride brakeless having a tight cog and lockring is what's saving your face/teeth/whatever from hitting the deck.

Thanks for your concern. Im riding it with brakes so my teeth are safe for now. Just flipped the hub to see if i get on with riding fixed. I tightened it all up but its still slipping. Guess i didnt tighten it enough. Pretty new to bike meddling........... I'll get my coat

You could rotafix the sprocket (gently) to make sure it's fully tight before tightening the lockring.

A combination of hard starts and rotafixing did indeed sort it. So thankfully the chain doesnt seem to be the cause. Thanks a lot ffm

Hi all,
Hope you can help me with this problem.

I have a problem with my dingle speed bike.
The other day, I was cycling over some uneven ground and shortly afterward, peddling became very, very difficult when I applied a lot of pressure. If I start slowly and build up speed, peddling is not so bad and it's not so hard, but from a standing start, if I try to accelerate quickly, peddling is very, very difficult. The chain also skips often when cycling and occasionally slips off.

The funny thing is, if I turn the bike upside down and rotate the crank with my hand, there's absolutely no stiffness at all. Any idea what the problem is and/or how it could be fixed?

Thanks.

Hehe, dingle speed bike!

Check for a cracked chainstay?

My guess would be rear axle! does the BB spin smooth without the chain and is the chain-ring spinning true?

Both suggestions are logical from yukirin and mule manning but cheapest is, check drive side wheel nut.

Hehe, dingle speed bike!
Check for a cracked chainstay?

My guess would be rear axle! does the BB spin smooth without the chain and is the chain-ring spinning true?

Both suggestions are logical from yukirin and mule manning but cheapest is, check drive side wheel nut.

Thanks very much for these suggestions. I'll investigate and let you know how I progress. Appreciate it :)

is your chain lined up correctly?
i had the same problem with the chain coming off so i put the chainring on the inside of the crank arm, so the tabs on the crank arm are on the outside, and it sorted that right out! maybe give that a go.

just check everything is done up tight and and make sure the wheel is lined up correctly. it maybe ok when you apply little force to it, like spinning the cranks with your hand but when you apply a much greater force, like when you pedal with your legs, the frame/crank arms/wheel will bend a little. so if its out of line theres more chance of something rubbing. chain tensioners maybe?

Well, it doesn't loom like the chain stay is cracked and the back wheel is spinning true, without and wobbles or rubbing against the brakes.

I have discovered that the rear wheel nut, on the side of the crank is loose. Should I simply tighten this or do I need to pull the wheel outwards (or push the wheel inwards) before tightening?
http://i58.tinypic.com/15pqt69.jpg

Also, there is a smaller bolt, perpendicular to the wheel nut on the other side, which appears to control how far in/out the wheel can be positioned.
http://i57.tinypic.com/iqhi05.jpg
Should I do anything with that bolt?

Thanks.

cant load the pics at work so going on description only. I'm guessing the second bolt is a chain tug and the first is your axle nut, if that's the case you should find the point on your chainring where the chain is tightest and tension the chain with the smaller nut (chain tug) then hold it in place with the first else your liable to pull the thread out of the chain tug.

Use tensioner on drive side.

Try not to overtighten it when the chain start binding the chainring (it'll be obvious when it have very little play).

It should look straight but got a lots of play.

Have you tried pedalling?

Sounds like the loose nut is the problem, adjust the chain to have a small amount of slack, about 12mm up and down midway between sprockets, tighten wheel nuts making sure the wheel is central between chainstays, now nip up chain tugs. Try bike.

have a look at the inner face of the chainstays, see if there are marks where the tyre has rubbed, I am sure it is the loose wheel nut allowing the wheel to move under load and the tyre then rubs on the frame, causing a lot of friction.