Sportive/relaxed geometry bikes?

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  • Hi all,

    I'm currently riding a 2011 Giant TCR Advanced 1 which I have a love/hate relationship with. The frame is comfortable and (insert marketing words here).... but I'm tempted to go for a bike with a more relaxed geometry.

    I ride around 100 miles a week (without any commuting) currently, but often go out for 100+ mile cycles; did a 135 miler last week. I don't race, I just like to ride fast! I like the way the frame handles under power and out of the saddle climbing as well, the groupset and finishing kit is perfectly good enough too.

    So I'm hankering after something a little more upright, as I want to take pressure off my sit bones (reduce saddle drop as I have a ridiculous looking setup). Has anyone made the jump of a more relaxed geometry bike; if so are there any drawbacks for the average rider? I'm 6ft 2" and weigh in at 85kg (no real weight to lose either) if that makes any difference.

    Spec and details of bike:
    http://goo.gl/Apvshj
    http://goo.gl/IbGYyf

  • Specialized, the Roubaix is a good choice. A problem with any compact geometry ( mike burrows) bike is getting the bars higher, therefore the frames have tall headtubes and tall riders sometimes go up a frame size to get more upright! I think Scott make their cr bikes as a sportive machine, they are less upright than the Roubaix.

  • Focus izalco ergoride
    Canyon Endurace CF
    Cannondale Synapse
    Trek Domane
    NeilPryde Zephyr
    BMC GF01
    Specialized Roubaix

    These are some of the relaxed geometry/sportive frames out there; if you HAVE to judge without test riding them judge it by stack and reach; its a metric that is not hard to understand and evaluate. You can measure the stack and reach of your current bike using a spirit level and compare it with the ones listed above (and more).

    Scoble started a thread about this but there is info all over interweb: http://www.lfgss.com/thread126717.html

    http://www.cervelo.com/en/engineering/thinking-and-processes/geometry-and-fit.html

    Generally feeling the need of upright frame means you are lacking core strength require to keep the upper body upright without pressure/weight on your hands but thats a different subject.

  • Fueled by rider smile easy outweigh core strength.

  • Thats why I said its a different subject depending on riders priority/age and many other factors. I myself have relaxed geometry bikes with spacers lol

  • trek domane

    test ride one and you will understand

  • This bike is unbeatable. I rode it in Germany and it is a dream.

    http://www.simplon.com/roadbikes/roadbikes/kiaro.html

  • trek domane

    test ride one and you will understand

    Not the new Synapse carbon?

    Trek have tiny clearance!

  • So I'm hankering after something a little more upright, as I want to take pressure off my sit bones (reduce saddle drop as I have a ridiculous looking setup).

    Does not compute, more upright = more pressure on sit bones.

  • Does not compute, more upright = more pressure on sit bones.

    try some different saddles...!

  • Get a bike fit if you haven't already. That costs a fraction of the price of a new bike, and I'd be surprised if it didn't make a welcome difference to your existing bike.

    And I very much doubt if changing saddles is going to have any effect on the pressure placed on your sit bones. Most issues with saddle comfort are due to fitting issues such as saddle height, tilt, handlebar/hood position and so forth. Get everything else right and you can be comfortable on almost any decent saddle imo.

  • Was thinking about getting a 2014 Giant TCR Advanced 1but have opted to test ride the 2014 Giant Defy Advanced 1

  • I agree about the bike fit. Counterintuitively, my saddle was raised by 10mm and my handlebars lowered by 5mm resulting in increased comfort.

    Something to do with getting the back straighter.

  • Silver Sunbeam: relaxed, or what?

    As you can see, I've managed to ride some way from London on it, in spite of its drawbacks.


    1 Attachment

    • IMG_4732.jpg
  • To be fair, you did have the saddle set forward to compensate for the super-slack seat tube.

  • Well observed, Ed!

    This frame originally belonged to my Dad (who bought it new in 1940, when it was already a museum piece), and I've done quite a few things to improve it as a bike. He managed to do quite a lot of touring and utility riding on it, but under his management it was a pretty dreadful machine. He favoured a 74.5" single freewheel combined with six and a half inch cranks (165 mm to most of you): I consider this to be an absurdly stiff gear. In addition all his kit was heavy, and apart from cheapness and toughness had nothing to recommend it.

     The interesting thing for me is that in spite of his rubbishy equipment he managed to cover big distances, and enjoy his riding.
    
  • Silver Sunbeam: relaxed, or what?

    As you can see, I've managed to ride some way from London on it, in spite of its drawbacks.

    Fuck me! That's a bed on wheels!!!

  • trek domane

    test ride one and you will understand

    I won't ride a bike from a company that supported a drug fuelled Texan...

    and they weren't very nice to Mr. Lemond either.

    Allegedly...

  • lol

  • I won't ride a bike from a company that supported a drug fuelled Texan...

    and they weren't very nice to Mr. Lemond either.

    Allegedly...

    What bikes do you ride, have any of them ever been ridden by cheats? Or do you just discriminate against texans?

    Reported for texanism.

  • Get a bike fit if you haven't already. That costs a fraction of the price of a new bike, and I'd be surprised if it didn't make a welcome difference to your existing bike.

    I don't get this "bike-fit" m'larky.

    In the good ol' days, when you went to buy a bike, the geezer selling the bike knew what was decent for you and with a tweak here and there, you got a decent bike at the right size.

    Now you have some PhDeed up boffin, with feckin lazers etc. telling you how to get the most power out of a pedal FFS.

    My mate spent money on one of these "bike-fit" shite things, and spent three months off the bike with hamstring problems, when all along I was telling him his saddle was too high.

    Utter shite.

    Next...

  • ha! tell it like it is yeah,
    actually though sounds like youre mate got skanked
    I know mechanics that give bike fits- there is a big difference to people who dont know what sizes they should ride

  • What bikes do you ride, have any of them ever been ridden by cheats? Or do you just discriminate against texans?

    Reported for texanism.

    Mercian.
    Dawes.
    Pete Matthews.
    Boardman.
    Dave Hinde.
    Paul Milnes.
    Flying Scot.
    Raleigh.
    Several others, mostly hand built by British builders.

    Take your pick, and I don't hate Texans, but Lance is the uber motherfucker of cheating shit snorting EPO'd ten gallon hat finger jockeys that has ever sat on a bicycle, along with his red white 'n' blue rat fink cheating Postal "team".

    and he wasn't very nice to Mr. Lemond too.

  • Does not compute, more upright = more pressure on sit bones.

    This is what confuses me!
    So i've been playing about with bike and saddle fit for the last 3 months now. I'm very happy with the fit on my bike now, I'm happy riding long distances with ease etc. However the saddle fit isn't quite right, still...

    I want to ease pressure off my sit bones, as I have a varicose vein on one ball that has flared up in the past due to poor saddle fit (nothing in the last 2 months since better fit). I still want to reduce the pressure though on the pelvis, so surely a more upright position assists?

  • Sound like a saddle with a cut out might be ideas if you don't have one, another solution is the Selle SMP which hold you differently relieving the pressure from your undercarriage.

    Upright position as I said earlier will put more pressure.

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Sportive/relaxed geometry bikes?

Posted by Avatar for aserota @aserota

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