The Tester Approves thread (see first post)

The answer is still yes

Not a Phil lock ring, it's the wrong size for Novatec hubs. The Novatec hubs come with their own functional but not particularly pretty ISO lock ring. The Token one is nicer looking and still probably stronger than the hub threads.

Since 'street' use doesn't require sprockets smaller than 16T, I'd go for a 6-bolt arrangement as the first choice, e.g. Novatec D166SBT. Very popular in Poland, for some reason. You can still have your Phil sprocket with this.
http://novatecusa.net/wp-content/uploads/2012/10/RH-D166SBT_large.jpg

Would you have to respace these hubs to use them with an ISO bolt cog? And if not, where would I buy these hubs from?

The answer to the second question was to find a Polish online shop when I asked upthread.

Would you have to respace these hubs to use them with an ISO bolt cog? And if not, where would I buy these hubs from?

I don't know what dimensions they have. The logical way to build them would be with 15mm from the disc mounting face to the inner face of the dropout, which combined with 120mm OLN would give a chainline of 46.5mm with a bolt-on sprocket. Normal front hubs (e.g. HB-M756) give a 41.5mm chainline with a bolt-on sprocket, so they are pretty close to normal track spec and easy to respace for wider chainlines. The trouble is, the M756 is the only commonly available one which can be converted with OTP components, and the drillings are a bit limited. Not that it should be a problem on the kind of bike for which a 16T minimum sprocket is acceptable.

Tester, where's that sketch of your cervelo in your profile taken from? I am looking for a bike configurator with similar graphics I have used some time ago, with most kinds of components and brands you could arrange at your choice, but forgot where. Tnx

Tester, where's that sketch of your cervelo in your profile taken from?

It's chopped from a photograph

Found it! Pedal id!

Dear tester thread - what is the approved combo of tiagra cranks with chainring to give decent chain line for 120mm spaced track dropouts?

Or maybe it isn't tiagra - but its some combination of shimano cranks with chainring.

Any 130mm PCD road cranks (FC-4500, 4600, 5600, 5700, 6600, 6700, 7800, 7900) plus USE chainring gives ~42mm chainline. Very bling, but the rings are £109 each. Bolting a 3mm thick 130mm PCD track ring to the inside chainring position on any of those cranks should give ~40mm chainline, use single ring bolts or double ones with 2mm shims to replace the outer ring. Not very pretty, but it will work. Some of the burlier track rings are 4mm thick, which will move the chainline inboard a further 0.5mm. Using a track ring in the outer position moves the chainline out to about 47mm, which works with some track hubs, e.g. older Goldtecs, Mavic Ellipse, Shimano road wheels with Surly Fixxer, and also converted front disc hubs re-spaced sideways by 5mm to make the wheel build dishless, or very nearly so.

Ah thanks. Bit pricey for my pompino beater/sscx build though, might aswel buy a set of omniums. Would a stronglight or miche chainring be beefy enough?

Is there a magic combo for SRAM cranks?

For a cheap build, the FC-S500 with stock 39T or 45T ring at 42.7mm chainline, with BB and handy chainguard thrown in all for about £50, is hard to beat.

130mm BCD though? Going to be difficult to run gearing for cross?

Why? Isn't 39T small enough?

I know nothing about cross gearing. I only turn left and TT a bit- these little numbers mean nothing to me.

I think 39/17 or 39/18 would be a typical gear for SSCX, depending of course on your level of fitness and the parcours

Righto

Are there any aero positive mudguards? Sure some would help making the wheels less draggy?

Do you even BikeSnob?

Anyway, you'd need something like this:

This is gonna get merged with AQA unless it turns back into a list of shit tester approves.

Do you even BikeSnob?

Anyway, you'd need something like this:

I guess just the top half would be enough as there is where the wheel is faster relative to the air. But don't even skinny ones covering only top/front of the tyre do anything as they do for racing cars? And if they do why aren't they used in tris? Tnx

why aren't they used in tris?

Because even triathlons have some regulations, e.g. USAT 5.11.e
"There must be no protective shield, fairing, or other device on any part of the bicycle (including frame, wheels, handlebars, chain wheel, and accessories) which has the effect of reducing resistance."

We live in a bloody police state!

The trouble is, the M756 is the only commonly available one which can be converted with OTP components, and the drillings are a bit limited.

Or M525. Drillings are still a bit limited mind - 32 or 36h.

Yes, technically the 525 works, but the XT is only £18-£23 (vs. £15-£18 for Deore), and has better seals among other upgrades.