The Tester Approves thread (see first post)

It's a bit deeper, more like a Zipp 101 rim

There's a Flo thread if you're interested

expander bungs for carbon steerers - much of a muchness or are some types best avoided?

If you don't know what you're doing, consult your fork manufacturer. The tester approved solution is glued-in

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Where does one get one of those ^ and what epoxy is approved?

One gets one made, for about £30, and Araldite Fusion.

Hey Tester,
in the Pompino owners thread you commented on greasing a square taper before putting the crank on there.
I have read on a mechanics website filled with otherwise very useful tips, that you shouldn't grease the square taper, otherwise you could pull the crank too tight and actually destroy it / make it impossible to get off.
Is that bollocks?

Also, the same site advises against greasing the steerer tube on ahead steerers, as the stem clamp could slip.
Also bollocks?

I haven't greased any of both yet, but after reading your comment on the cranks, next time I have a free afternoon my bike's gonna get some grease.
All screws are/will be greased. Anything else?

Is that bollocks?

Yes. If you're worried about pushing the crank too far up the taper, the way to fix that is by reducing the clamping force, not adding a bunch of friction.

Also bollocks?

No. A stem clamp is a different kind of fit. You might want something in there to dissuade electrolytic corrosion, but it doesn't need lubrication.

So a light coat of anticorrosive spray on the steerer is okay? That would be great since I've had some slight rust issues there. Every other part of my bike including the inside, is either painted or treated with some kind of rust deterrent...

So a light coat of anticorrosive spray on the steerer is okay?

Yes. Even grease should be OK, it's just not necessary. If your turning torque overcomes a greased steerer clamp, you have other problems to address.

^massive arm strength? Finally getting to hit the tire with your hands because your drops are too low?

I was thinking terminally seized headset, but those are good too.

Chain lube for commuting?

Carbon assembly paste? (its for a seatpost in a steel frame)

Approved or not, this Tacx paste is a bargain.

I'm happy to go Signed Off by Suffolk.

Ha!

#SOBS

TACX = Tester Approved Carbon X-embly

Chain lube for commuting?

Last time I commuted on a bicycle, my chain was dipped in diesel fuel.There may have been developments since 1988.

^lol
I've used 2-stroke mix on my Surly in the past. The chain was dry with bits of woodchip stuck all over it(I chuck it in the back of truck at work), used it to clean off the shite and relube. Works really well and I kinda like the smell.
https://sslcache.se/e74938bf53d0aaa7e7f94df2935c8c5f0e5580ba/687474703a2f2f7777772e737469686c2e636f2e756b2f75706c6f61642f61737365746d616e616765722f6d6f64656c6c5f696d61676566696c656e616d652f7363616c65642f77656273697a652f5a2d48503130304d4c2d533030312d315f702e6a7067
ftw

Love the smell of Castrol-R: takes me straight back to the mid-Eighties and adventures in seaside towns around the country...

you were a sailor?

I'm hankering to try 52/36 chainset, any recommendations for a 68mm BSA threaded frame? I want something a bit bling as it's for an NOS System Six frameset - thinking Rotor 3D+ any other recommendations, for the chainset and BB adaptor? If this is in the wrong thread should I move to mechanics? Thansk WG

I see that novatec / on one etc hubs are highly recommended for street wheels. Aside from sealed bearings what's the advantage of running modern hubs over old hubs like a campag or dura ace 7520? Has manufacturing improved to make much of a difference?

I've previously never really used or paid a lot of money for bike parts of a similar vintage to myself

It's mostly the bearing seals, but I wouldn't be at all surprised if Novatec's 21st Century alloy had a better blend of strength/fatigue strength/corrosion resistance compared with 30 year old hubs, aluminium mills are constantly refining even cheap general purpose alloys.

Googling GP GT gets you some weird results. Is there a new one? I haven't ridden them but they're meant to be a pretty good training tyre. They look like they cost similar to the GP4000s which is so fast and reliable I'd just get one of those.

Continental Grand Prix GT

^^ so save cash on expensive period correct hubs with no performance gain and invest in a solid set of Novatecs with Phil cog and lockring?