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• #2
I'd say that you picked a frame that is not really an obvious choice for converting to fixed. From the little I know of the Galaxy it's a solid, reliable tourer with unremarkable ride and I doubt you'll feel the benefit of a fixed setup on it, unless you're going for a very specific bike, a fixed tourer.
In case you want a more traditional conversion, I'd suggest you start from a bike with less relaxed geo and less generous clearances, then your fixed will be much more nimble.
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• #3
The frame / forks weren't too expensive so I'm not too concerned re geo (which I have to admit I don't know too much about).
It's more of a summer project but I don't want to break the bank.
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• #4
well, if you don't want to break the bank then don't paint it
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• #5
Hi wire brush frame rattle can paint job, lots of no logo parts available just enjoy building and riding. You can always get another frame when you're ready.
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• #6
who cares if the frame in an "unremarkable ride" you can still have fun! ive always wanted to strip and rattle can a frame, would make for a good project.
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• #7
Hi wire brush frame rattle can paint job, lots of no logo parts available just enjoy building and riding. You can always get another frame when you're ready.
This. No need to get deep on your first build, you'll learn loads as it is.
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• #8
Once you have stripped and rattle canned the frame you would probably have been better off getting it done professionally.
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• #9
I need to check out the price to get it done. If it's not too expensive I'll go down that route otherwise I'll clean up the rust and spray it.
As for bars, stem, seat, seat post etc I'm going to start amassing the parts and from what I can see these need not be expensive.
My concern I think will be the bottom half; I'm assuming it's just a matter of measuring between the forks to get a size for the front wheel and hub? And similarly at the rear or is it more tricky than this?
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• #10
Forks will almost certainly be standard 100mm OLD.
Rear end is probably 126mm or 130mm. Either way, a standard modern road hub (130mm) will go straight in.
If you insist on banging a 120mm track hub in there, count on needing some spacers.
Read this. -
• #11
I imagine that somewhere like armourtex charges more for different colour fork and frame, get it all the same colour, should keep it cheaper. price is around £80 i think.
velosolo.com do some good spacer kits, and they are anodised so it can be all matchy matchy n shit.
^having said that, you can just tighten up the bolts so it squeeze the frame in 6mm. ive done it loads, works fine as long as the frame is aligned.
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• #12
Couple of quick questions.
What's the best means of removing the forks? From what I've looked at on the internet it's a simple matter of stripping the top end and then using a mallet to knock out the forks from the frame. Does this sound correct? There's no way the forks could be screwed in to the frame is there?
Also any thoughts on using a single speed kit from single speed components (or similar) or is it best to try to source the bits I need 2nd hand to keep the costs in check?
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• #13
look on sheldonbrown and park tools websites, it sounds like you'll need them. Good luck, i did a rattlecan paintjob on my dawes, sandpaper, primer, colour and topcoat of varnish, it gets a bit pricey but take time and it'll last ages. Rush and it'll look shite within weeks.
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• #14
I wouldn't use a mallet to remove the forks, you might damage something.
First remove the stem,
Then, Undo the lock nut with a spanner.
Gently remove the washer, being careful not to damage the thread on the forks. (A flat head screwdriver helps to tease it up, make sure the slot is lined up correctly.)
Next unscrew the threaded race.
The forks will now come apart from the frame.If you want to completely remove the headset for painting then you will need a tool and a hammer to bash out the races.
You will also need a headset press to push them back in again afterwards.
:)
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• #15
^ aka block of wood and hammer. Old steel...
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• #16
So managed to get the lock nut and the washer off. The threaded race is proving more difficult though. There are three slots/notches which I assume is to allow a wrench to be attached. I'll take another look later maybe after spraying with WD40.
Also wondering if anyone has a view on removing cantilever brake braze ons? Is this worth the hassle or can I use?! I'd like 700c wheels but don't know if this makes the mounts for the brakes useless or can I reuse?
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• #17
Depending on the brake you want to use, leaving the cantilever brazings on should not be a problem. If it doesn't interfere with your brake arms, you can leave them on. If the cantilever braze ons are supposed to fit a 650c rim rather than a 700c one, I would assume that leaves you with more space to fit a caliper brake above them. Have you tried if a caliper brake will fit at all?
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• #18
Haven't tried to fit brakes yet. I'm very early on in the process and am really just thinking out loud. I'm still wondering about refinishing the frame and thought I'd best think about the brake braze ons (and whether to keep them or not) before I make a final decision.
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• #19
I wouldn't use a mallet to remove the forks, you might damage something.
First remove the stem,
Then, Undo the lock nut with a spanner.
Gently remove the washer, being careful not to damage the thread on the forks. (A flat head screwdriver helps to tease it up, make sure the slot is lined up correctly.)
Next unscrew the threaded race.
The forks will now come apart from the frame.If you want to completely remove the headset for painting then you will need a tool and a hammer to bash out the races.
You will also need a headset press to push them back in again afterwards.
:)
I didn't even think you could buy those crappy ball bearing saving cages these days!
maybe think about using linseed oil to seal the existing frame with the retro decals whats the point of
making an A'tex "no name" from a classic
don't be bullied! be given advice not Advised what to do!
Galaxy is a legend!......just saying
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• #20
^^^
Must be said that for your first project just getting it into a state where you can tear up your local streets is awesome enough. Maybe do the build and then see how you want to proceed with the paint and other niceties...My first conversion was a piece of poo but I rode it like a maniac because it was all mine!
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• #21
Many many thanks for all the advice. I think I now have a clearer view on how I'll proceed.
- Split frame from forks
- Clean and remove rust
- Pull together the parts I need
- Build it up
- Only then hink about paint etc.
Promise this is my last question. For a firsts build would you opt for a kit consisting of wheels, crankset, chain etc. try to source 2nd hand or buy parts separately?
- Split frame from forks
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• #22
...Also as I've never built up a bike before any opinions as to how I can do it while keeping the costs from spiraling while balancing the need to make the build as straightforward as possible would be appreciated...
Reusing the parts you already have will keep costs down and help keep the build as straightforward as possible.Avoid getting parts removed from, or added to, the frame unnecessarily; this will keep costs down and and help keep the build as straightforward as possible.
Know what the frame was intended to be used for and keep that in mind: the further you stray from the original, the more expensive and complicated things will become.
Build first, paint second: you want to make sure everything fits and works before the frame has a new coat.
Don't bother getting it painted.
...Promise this is my last question. For a firsts build would you opt for a kit consisting of wheels, crankset, chain etc. try to source 2nd hand or buy parts separately?
Don't be daft: if people didn't ask questions, there'd be no forum!Buy parts separately.
First though, you need to post some photos of the frame and list what components you have.
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• #23
I've got a couple of handlebars you can have free, standard low riser MTB ones, that look good cut down a bit to taste
,or some nice chrome drop bars
(you pay the post and will send em) -
• #24
PS This is my fixed Galaxy: a Rolls Royce of a ride!
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• #25
PS This is my fixed Galaxy: a Rolls Royce of a ride!
Alright, I'll eat my words about converting a Galaxy. This looks great.
Just bought a Dawes galaxy frame and forks from about 1988 and intend to build it up info a fixed gear bike.
The frame / forks have a bit if rust which I'm hopeful I can remove by getting the frame stripped and powder coated.
Any thoughts as to colour? I'm thinking either Orange (possibly with black forks) or white and blue.
Also as I've never built up a bike before any opinions as to how I can do it while keeping the costs from spiraling while balancing the need to make the build as straightforward as possible would be appreciated.
Lots more questions but I need to think through and read up before I ask.